jbooker82

I was wondering about that as well. I thought a stock stroke big bore 68mm 110 rod banshee had to use a special piston, and that is why most people running the stock 110 rod ran a 65mm bore so they could just use regular banshee pistons. Then if you had a long rod 115 crank 68mm bore cub you could run the blaster pistons. The blaster pistons are shorter from the wrist pin hole to the top of the piston head, and have a flatter dome.

Here is the Keihin Jetting Guide I was talking about. http://www.duncanracing.com/techfaq/Tech_k...n-jetting.phtml

Maxxis 4snows for me too. When I run them on my raptor I can pull wheelies on snow pack.

Because ricky stators have been known to be junk. Electrical grimlens can have you chasing jetting all day. You also need to find out what caused the melted piston. You could have an air leak on that cylinder.

That would be the customers is always right method. What did they do or offer to do to make it right?

I see by your modd list your running a 200w ricky stator. I would try an oem stator and see how that runs.

I just left the plastic things out.

I think you meen den. That would be richer in the 3/4 range. Wouldn't a dgn also be a longer needle witch would be like raising the clip position leaning it out.

Maybe you need a thinner diameter needle. That way you have a little more fuel at the 1/4 throttle range. Something like a cel. The first letter is the taper. It controles the fuel in the upper end of where the needle meters fuel. Diameter is the bottom end of the spectrum. Go look at duncan racing international web site they have a great keihin jetting guide.

I would go with pwk33 boss intake and 10deg pod filters

By the time it sprays coolant the engine temp is 250+ deg.

I shut mine down at 225 or so. That temp is measured right at the head outlet with my tt vapor. I would keep the water bottle. It doesn't directly circulate with the cooling system but it does keep the radiator topped off. When coolant heats up it expands, the excess flows into the tank. Then when it cools it contracts filling the rad back up. Inline coolers don't work. I do keep one in my tool box incase I blow a hose. You can use it to splice the hose back together. A billit impeller is a good mod. Engine ice helps too. I have a pro design radiator. It was well woth the cash if you ride tight trails.

Cascade sells pod kits for keihin carbs. Just make sure you tell them what angle of flange you need. They have 10 and 20 deg. They also sell heat wraps that slide over the exhaust stingers so you don't melt the outerwears.

I wouldnt get that filter. You have to cut the stock plastic cage and clamp that filter to the cage. The lid is what holds the cage in place so you cannot run with no air box lid. If your wanting to retain the lid then you need a pro design kit, or Noss Machine kit. It has an aluminum bracket that bolts to the front of the air box. The filter clamps to the bracket. That way you can have no lid at all. I would still go with pods over a Noss Machine kit though. BHQ members get 10% off at noss machine http://www.nossmachine.com/yamaha_banshee_parts.htm

Here is the pod filters. Buy the bracket and the filters from Rocky Mountain and get free shipping. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...odFamilyId=9417

Here you go. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...odFamilyId=9212

It depends on what kind of riding you do. If you are not building an all out drag bike or don't ride super tight trails then I would go for a dune port. If I was your shoes and had the money for a port job and carbs. I would do a 4mill and run the stock carbs for now.

Yea. You don't run a drag pipe on stock porting. The drag pipes are designed to make power at a higher rpm and the stock porting is not. Ethire get a port job or sell the pipes and get something different. I would chose the first option

I would keep the res. Some guys just take it completly off. Armidillo makes 2 coolant bottle brackets. A plain one and one that holds 2 extra spark plugs. I have the spare plug holder. Rocky mountain sells them.

There is a lot of power to be gained by doing a 4mill and port job. The stroker crank makes for a stronger midrange wich is nice for trail riding. A port job is like putting in a performance camshaft in a 4 stroke. They opean the ports up wich control when air and fuel come in and the exhaust goes out. If you port your cylinders for a stock stroke crank you won't be able to have them reportrd for a 4mill.

You could do it yourself but I would send the cylinders and pistons to a builder to look over napa's work.

I am sure he was demanding the tires the same day since he was leaving on a riding trip tomarrow with "shit for tires". Usually when you wait to the last minute it turns into a cluster fuck. I too would like to see this guys do not deal with these vendors list.

It should get you pretty close. Most piped banshees run in the 280-290 range. Ported banshees run anywhere from 300 to 330 depending on what type of port job they have. DMC makes a nice exhaust. Individual clamp on filers are nice because they make jetting the carbs much easier.

It all depends on if you ride in mud and water. K&N pods (individual filters directly on the carbs) is going to be the best performance. If you do a lot of mud and water riding these wouldn't be the best choice. Most kits come with an outerwear that is water repelant. They work good for the ocasional puddle. The pods are nice for jetting. The stock air box sucks taking in and out. If you run in lots of mud and water then a stock air box with a billit plate is the way to go. You just clamp one filter on the plate and run it with no air box lid. They also have the water repelant outerwear. I wouldn't mess with a k&n power lid. The are just used as a precleaner. You still have to run an airfilter in the box.