jbooker82

A 2:1 pipe just sounds cool and that is about it. They suck big time on the top end. Procircuit will have just as strong midrange and rev out better. If you want bottom end get a 4 stroke, dont try to make the banshee something its not.

You might try www.rcuniverse.com That is a pretty big rc site. HAHA sounds like a plan. Free bump

77809 - 10bucks off a hundered dollar order

I think it is for stuffing the cases. Reducing the volume of the crank case. I think it brings the velocity of the air and fuel up, going up into the transfer ports.

I am selling a High Output Flywheel. It has stronger magnets in it. It doesnt make more voltage, but the peak voltage is made at lower rpms. Your light will be brighter at lower rpm's. I have ran this flywheel for about a year. 75 bucks shipped I have a OEM yamaha stator for 1997 to 2006 banshee's. It has the 1 4 wire square plug, and 1 6 pin rectangle plug (only 5 wires in the plug though). It has had an aftermarket pickup coil wired on. It is splice in with weather tight butt conectors. They are the kind that you heat up and shrink after you crimp them. 75 bucks shipped. I will sell both for 125 shipped if the buyer wants both. I do accept paypal as well let me know josh

I think you mean low gearing. He has different ratio primary gears (clutch basket, and crank). It is a 535 and in a suzuki street bike.

I have a FAST 4mill Dune port. I am happy with it. It has a really strong midrange and top end. www.farmandsandtoys.com I have also had a Patriot Racing 4mill Drag port. I ran it before my fast dune port. It ran super strong on the top end. It was a good drag port, but I needed somethign with more of a midrange. www.patriotracing.net

Boss makes a good intake. I am glad I have a Hindson Basket.

Could have had a 4mill. :biggrin: The only Hot Rod crank that comes welded is the 4mill Long rod, and people have a beefier weld put on them.

I like how intimidated people are of the bottom end. Hell the cases split top and bottom. All the transmission shafts just lay in the bottom case like a tray. I would get a seal kit and do the whole bottom end if it was me.

I would do a dune ported 4mill with cpi pipes. Noss cool head. If you want to support your builder you could get the head from them. FAST and HJR both have noss heads with there logo engraved on it.

Yes keep it but do not hook it up to the coolant res or radiator. Just run the opean end up over the top of the cylinders and up over the frame under the tank through the square loop.

you got it right in the pic just run a vent down the rad by the radiator cap down the frame. I wouldn't get rid of the rear crank case vent and vent under the waterpump cover. If you do when you stand your banshee on the rear grab bar oil will run out.

I prefer the T down in the frame my self too. The bar's already have enough stuff going to them with out a nother brake line

The reason why the dynatek is so good is because you can buy a programing kit and make custom programed curves. It also has launch limiter, tach output, and rpm activated switches that can be used to triger nos at certian rpms. If your not programing your own custom curvs then I would just stick with an OEM Yamaha. The "Magical Rev Boxes" arent worth it. They are not made with the same quality as oem yamaha. The factory oem cdi's are made by Denso wich makes good stuff. Try tracking down where the RM stator cdi is produced.

That is just it. It is an Advertisement. I would just stick with OEM CDI. As I have been told "Some of the fastest banshee's out there run OEM Ignition" IE Stators, Coils, CDI's. A dyna is worth it if your going to spend the time and money dynoing and programing custom curvs, or running nos. Otherwise I would stick with an OEM Yamaha CDI RM stators stuff looks to much like Ricky Stators stuff to make me comfortable running it.

RH and LH as your sitting on the seat. No that is not right. The bottom of the radiator goes to the front of the clutch cover. (Big hose with spring) The front of the cylinder head goe to the top of the radiator (big hose) The nipple on the RH side of the radiator goes to the back nipple on the top back of the cylinder head. The nipple by the radiator cap (Left hand Side) goes to the bottom of the coolant jug. The top of the coolant jug is just a vent for the jug. The hose runs up to the front under the fuel tank through the square loop on the frame and dangles The small vent from the back of the engine comes togeher with a t and a line from under the waterpump cover. From the T it runs up through that square loop and dangles there as well. You dont want the crankcase vent and the water bottle vent hooked together. You risk getting oil in the coolant system or coolant in the oil.

People say it is a one way flow but I dont see how it can be. You have fluid in the tank. When the engine heats up the coolant expands. When it cools down it contracts. As long as there is coolant in the tank it is going to pull coolant back in to the radiator. Yea it isnt going to suck it dry if you have a coolant leak but it keeps the radiator topped off inbetween heating and cooling cycles. The same thing every coolant res has done on cars and trucks up until recently. If it was just a catch can then the hose would be on the top of the tank by the vent. Now they are all moving twards pressurized coolant tanks that are tied in directly in to the radiator and engine.

Automatic Transmission Fluid. There are several types of fluid. Type F is what everybody is running.

The timing plate and shaved head shouldnt require a rejet. The trail port will.

Take the gas tank off and get a pice of rod long engough to stick down the spark plug hole. Make sure it is long enough that you wont drop it down in the cylinder. Put the rod in to the spark plug hole and role the engine over until the piston is at bottom dead center. Mark the rod. Then roll the engine over by hand until it is at top dead center. Mark the rod. If it measures 54mm from mark to mark then you have a stock stroke crank If it measures 58mm you have a 4 mill stroker crank. You need to make sure you keep the rod in the same spot on the top of the piston.

yamaha lube will work fine. It is just an engine oil that is wet clutch compatable. Oils that are made for 2 stroke transmissions shift smoother.

The oil confuses a lot of people. They see they are pouring it in the engine so they think it is engine oil. It absolutly doesnt lubercate the engine at all, so your not going to fry anything. Full size pickups and cars that have manual transmissions run ATF for lubercation. I use to run engine oil, but the oils that are specifically designed for 2 stroke transmissions shift better. I didnt like having to change the oil all the time with ATF. I have used Bel Ray Gear Saver 75w, Honda HP80, and Silkolene Comp Gear. The Silkolene Comp Gear stayed the cleanest the longest. It is even saft to use with aluminum clutch plates. I emailed the Silkolene about using SRG75 and they didnt recomend it since the banshee has a wet clutch and not really considered a big bike. http://www.silkoleneusa.com/gear_oil.aspx?..._OBJ_ID=1048908

look at the chain. Inbetween the inner and outler link plates there will be o rings in there. They seal help seal dirt out so it doenst wear the pins out as fast.

That is sweet. It takes the jaws bumper to a whole new level. The only thing that would be better would be if it was on raptor plastics.