jbooker82

Coat the o rings with some vasoline or petrolium jelly. Don't use grease. Vasoline will melth the first time you start it up. Regular grease won't and it could plug the radiator up. Unbolt the rear elbow fitting on the back of the head instead of undoing the hose clamp. That way when you go to reinstall the head your not fighting the rear hosen while trying to keep o rings in place. I install my prodesign head one piece at a time. Set a dome over each cylinder then slide the shell down on top of the domes. That might be a little tricky if you have a one piece noss, or chariot head. Tighten it down. Then bolt the elbow back on the rear of the head. Don't forget teflon tape or other thread sealer if those bolt holes go clear into the head.

Yea if you start out at 160 that will be plenty rich. Probably end up at a 45 or 42 pilot.

Do you have any links to them. I was thinking about trying one out.

Yea I see it now. It was hard to tell on my black berry. If I could see a pic of the back side of the cover plate I would really consider buying one, even though I already have a prodesign impeller.

A small bolt / drain plug would be nice so you have an ez drain cover.

It looks like it has an extended cover. The cover needs to continue the contours of the water pump housing in order for the pump to operate efficiently, other wise it will just cavitate / aireate the coolant.

A pair of off the shelf domes will work if all your concerned with is it running. I just figured that since it was a drag port then you would be concerend with hundredth's of seconds. As gregrob said it wont be a lot of fun riding if your not 100% dragging. I had a patriot drag ported 4mill. It was a dog from idle to 7000 rpm then it pulled your arms of till 9200 rpm. I was hp greedy. The most hp isnt always the best hp.

yep 4mill dune port with pwk33's,and t5's would be a fun ride. I look at it this way, a 4mill gives you a stronger midrange. You can give that midrange up in exchange for top end by running CPI's. It would probably have a stronger midrange pull than your stock port pt mids. There is always people looking to trade t5's for cpi's if you absolutly hate them.

I am just saying that there is more to domes than the size. Squish, squish band length, squish band angel. I would consider the domes as part of the setup. Different guys porting could favor different specs.

You could do a dune ported 4mill now and change the carbs and pipes later.

Why would you ask someone else about the correct setup for another builders work. Who do you think has better knowledge on the subject? The guy who did the original work or someone else. I am not knocking wild card. If it was his cylinders in question then I would tell you to talk to him.

What does the back of the water pump cover look like? What makes the waterpump work is the housing that it sits in. So if your water pump cover doent match the aluminum clutch cover then it wouldn't really be worth it. All it will do is spin the coolant in the clutch cover instead of forcing it up into the head.

The guy that makes the sling shot lockups makes a top cover for the Prodesign head that does that.

My banshee came with the extended lever. I took it off because I didnt like it. It was easier to push but it had a longer sweep. josh

Every time I have broken a reed. It is usually blown back in to the air filter, and the one cylinder goes dead, and it is sucking air in through the exhaust pipe.

I have a pair of ASR Pro X tie rods on my raptor. They are the honda style where the rod threads in to the joint instead of the otherway around. I bet you couldnt bend one of these with out tearing something else up. josh http://www.amstarmanufacturing.com/X-SeriesTieRods.html

I have a Tornado in each air filter :thumbsup:

Here is the back side of the boss intake. I run it with the cascade stuffers.

The rocking back and fourth is what causes the splines to wear. The jbweld just makes for a snug fit. You would be able to take take it off by smacking the sprocket hub with a rubber mallet.

I bet you will se a lot more people running a billit chariot plate since the cast rs plates now sell for 50 + on ebay

For the transmission I am sure that yamaha put 10w30 yamalube in it since that is what they specify. I run a 75 or 80w 2 stroke transmission oil in mine. Something like bel ray gear saver, klots flexdrive 30, honda hp, maxima mtl.

+1 on the bel ray super clean. It doesn't fling off at all if you let it sit like the can says to.

If the splines are loose then tighting up the nut just masks the problem. You won't be able to move it by hand but the engine still will. The movement back and fourth can cause the axle nut to loosen.

Then your throwing money away by doing the stock build now. A 4mill port job is different from a stock stroke build. So you will be paying for 2 portjobs. If you have your cylinders ported for the stock crank your cylinders won't be able to be reported for the 4mill. If your running a stock rod lenght crank you will also have to get a new set of pistons. If your serous about building a 4mill I would wait on the top end and port job. Josh

Another option would be a boss racing intake. It has a big squar opeaning in the back instead of the round. Matche the vforce 3 reeds up with a set of cascades reed stuffers / retainers. I am on my black berry so I can't post pics. I have posted some pics before if you want to do a search.