csrmel

feck. thanks for saving me the hassle then.

i want to put my stock banshee axle on my fathers raptor 350. the stock banshee axle is a few inches wider then the raptor counterpart. i know the splines on the ends are the same, but im wondering about the center section where the axle goes through the carrier. if it can be done or not. thanks guys.

i have that router, i am a computer engineer. pm me youre tele and ill walk you through it.

lots of people myself included don't like bling anyways. bling won't make you faster. there's a few exceptions, but it's just a money waster most of the time.

400ex's are so slow for drag racing. maybe there are fast ones but i have never seen one. in their defense, they are not a quad meant for drag racing. race that 400ex on a mx track, or in the wods, it would be more fair.

back when my engine was stock stroke and unported i could beat a few powervalved cheetah 535's in drag races simply by having a better setup. the cheetahs had a plus 10 swingers and 50% worn out razr rear tyres. i had stock swinger and paddles. keep in mind we were dragging on sand. i had to fight with too much traction. the cheetah bikes did not have enough. so i always ended up winning. all they did was spin off the line. half the time they wouldnt even make it out of the hole because the tyres would spin and they would get stuck and have to get off and push their shit out of the holes they dug. how stupid is that? so the setup of youre total package is more important then what motor you run. my stock 350 beating a 535 cheetah is proof of that. if those cheetah bikes has good suspension and tire setups, i know i would have gotten my ass handed to me. oh yeah, the rider is another big part. if you cant launch good and control you're emotions. and do things like bog real bad off the line then it doesnt matter what setup you have you wont be going to get a good time. good rider + good bike setup + good motor = fast

the media is going crazy reporting about all these supposed people sexting all over the place. so im thinking, jackpot! and go online looking for the pictures of 18+ girls. where are all these pictures? i search the internet for a whole 10 minutes and can't find a single one. i'm so bummed....

i have a set of nice t5 toomey pipes. the expansion chambers are in great condition, the mufflers and hush kit are also in great condition. the stinger tubes are dented because i accidently ran over them! the expansion chambers, mufflers and hush kit are in great condition though. they are not bent or damaged from me running over the stinger tubes. infact, the stingers were not even bolted onto the mufflers when i ran them over. the exhaust system just needs new stinger tubes. but you can get brand new chrome tubes from toomey for $30 each. i am asking $200 for the whole exhaust. willing to split up the hush kit if the entire exhaust doesn't sell. also have a set of 06 factory reeds on factory blocks. perfect condition, came off my personal bike. $45 also have stock intakes from my personal o6 bike, perfect condition. $35 comes with x-over tube and boost bottle (you can have both) stock carbs with tors, $75 perfect condition. have ez-pull carb return springs installed. carbs are mint. 06 throttle cable recently lubes, $10 perfect condition. if you need pics of the other parts then ask.

heres the bottom line, on a stock ported motor (no port work) shearer or cpi is probably too short and aggressive of a pipe. you won't notice much if any increase in top end. but you will notice a midrange and bottom end loss of power. cpi and shearer pipes are not designed to work with the port timings of an unported motor. non portred motors always work best with pipes designed for them. NOT DRAG PIPES. that is why people with stock port motors, or motors with pussy port jobs (trail port, mx, clean up etc) don't notice any high rpm power difference between a fmf toomey etc and a cpi or shearer. and in fact when my motor still had stock porting, i tried a set of fmf sst, t5's, cpi, shearer and a few others. the fmf and t5 had the best low rpm and midrange power. the shearer and cpi had less power at low rpm and midrange. on the top end at high rpm, the cpi and shearer pipes BARELY outpulled the fmf and t5's. it was pretty even though. as soon as i put in a aggressive dune port and a stroker crank,i tried all my pipes again. now all the pipes work pretty good. but since i got that aggressive port job, that allows the shorter cpi and shearer pipes to really wake up. and now they flat out out pull the fmf and t5 on the top end and midrange. it's a night and day difference. where the fmf and t5 sign off and quit pulling, the cpi and shearer keep on pulling harder and harder. the shearer and cpi also have a stronger midrange on my ported motor then the fmf or t5 do. low rpm power is all about the same between all the pipes. so now class, let us recap: you have to choose a exhaust pipe that fits the needs of youre riding conditions, AND the porting of youre cylinders. unported motor? - stock to fmf, toomey t6, t5 ,pro circuit, pt low rev etc mild port motor? same. dune port?- toomey t5, pt high rev, cpi , etc. agressive dune port and up to drag port? cpi, shearer, grr and a host of other people who build top end pipes. stay away from toomey, fmf, etc. any questions, i will kill you in youre sleep.

you can do it with a few drill bits, a grinder or dremel, and a few hand files. I have done this mod myself, i got 4.5 degrees out of the stock plate. it took about an hour. i saved about 35 bucks, so i made the equivalent of 35 an hour. the only thing you really need to buy is a flywheel removal tool. not bad.

since you have a dune port, i say go for it. the cpi's are a great pipe for a dune port. it will really wake up that motor. I run cpi's as well, i upgraded from t5's, and the difference was huge.

use 4 gaskets and sealer. works great every time.

banshee is known for being hard on chains, and when they do fail, throwing them in such a way as to break the cases. I would be more careful next time. I have perfect cases as well, and im determined to keep them that way.

There was this gnarly hill on sunday, it starts out at 10 feet of 80 degree climb, then goes to a 45 degree climb, so its quite difficult to get up. I had climbed this hill a few times, so I thought I had mastered it. The last time I went up it, i had the throttle pinned, shot up the 80 degree, got air, landed on the 45 degree, and crawled my way up. right as i was reaching the top, my riding buddy pops out of nowhere. he had rode the shallow side of the hill up to the top to watch me. I was going up pretty hard and he was right in my landing spot so I had no choice but to brake going up hill to avoid hitting him and sending him tumbling down the hill. I braked, stopped, and started sliding backwards. I went over a rut and the banshee went sideways, flipped. i tumbled downhill, flew through the air and landed on my stomach at the bottom. 1 second later the banshee tumbled down and landed square on top of me. I was stuck, hurting pretty bad, coundlt move and I was laying in fire ant mound. The banshee had me pinned down. My riding buddy ditches his dirtbike, slides down the hill on his ass and runs over to help me get the bike off me and get out of the ant pile. I think I am ok but i am so freakin sore. i couldnt even get out of bed yesterday. i only got out of bed today in the afternoon. my banshee has slightly bent handlebars but is otherwise ok. my stomach face arms are all lumpy from fire ant bites.

stock cylinders, agressive dune port 4mm long rod crank 795 pistons cpi pipes +4 timing cool head, 165psi 110 octane unleaded gas castrol 2t @ 32:1 v force 3 billet intakes 35mm pwk carbs uni pod filters 20 feet above sea level 45 degree temp @ the time i did the plug chop 165 mains cel needle in the middle, 55 pilots need more info let me know. i am also wondering, if these 165 mains are OK at43 degrees, what should i run at 70 degrees, and 95 degrees?