Toomey Banshee

You can go up to about 160 pounds of compression before you have to run race fuel. I have 20cc domes on the 99 and run 3 gallons of pump to 2 gallons of race. No problems, at sea level. 21's should be good with pump. Noss makes the nicest cool heads and gives us HQ people a discount and you have the luxury of asking him any questions since he is a member here.

order up a new set of needles while your at it.

Is your parking brake assembly removed or at least unpluged?

tell us what you have done to it. Mods and the like. I can tell you right off though its not the T.O.R.S. Sounds like 1 of 2 things, air screw adjustment or needle clip position, maybe both.

I asked the same question yesterday to an experienced, fast engine builder. His answer was typically no, unless the tool that is being used to do the porting makes contact above the exhaust port, in that case some damage will have occured and you should have it bored. He went on to state that 90% of the time there is no problems what so ever.

Pretty funny. When I hear that song it reminds me of the Howard Stern song they wrote about KC.

CPI's, T-5's. I have both, CPI is better in my opinion.

First off your mains are way to lean. On my 99 with Toomeys and pro design air filter, no lid I'm running 320's. If you have the stock air intake system I would start with at least 280's. Work your way down. Secondly to sync your carbs you use your right carb as the reference carb and sync your left. Just remove the rubber boot on the left carb. Hit the throttle and look when the slides hit the sight window on both carbs. If they dont hit at the same time you have to adjust your left one to hit at the EXACT time the right one hits. To do this losen the two bolts under the rubber boot and adjust it with the bottom bolt. As far as your idle goes that can be adjusted using the large thumb screw on top of the tors on your carb tops. Make sure you have the machine warmed up before you adjust the idle. Also, on a stock machine such as yours you generally want the air screw at 1 and a half turns out each. Back to the sync process, alot of people in here take off their air box completely and use a flashlight to look at the back of the carbs to see when the slides START to move up. They (slides) have to move at the same time. I've tried both and like the way I described first. Good luck and welcome to the HQ. Ask as many questions as you want, someone will help you out.

did you disconnect your tors and parking brake yet? If not that may be the problem. If it revs ok and then suddenly doesnt and idles ok and suddenly doesnt I would bet thats where your problem is.

Dude, shes bangin your buddy. Be done with both of them and move on.

check for an air leak somewhere as well.

17cc at sea level with 114

The header looks alot like T-5's and the silencer looks like LRD's. Trininty and DMC look alot like T-5's too.

Thought you might find this interesting. Found it on the net. It compares CPI in frames to power pro out of frames. How many of you Banshee owners have wondered what it would be like to have Out-of-Frame Drag pipe power built into your In-frame pipes? Due to the constraints of building a pipe that fits up and into the chassis it hasn

I'm running 320's at sea level, no air box lid on with pro design plate with foam filter. Stock pilots with needles third down from the top.

OK, I have searched on here thoroughly. It seems those that have done the actual porting add few comments and those that are thinking of the job ask a boat load of questions. I am really thinking about the templates for the 99 and really need some feedback. I just did the top end with Wesico pro lites and bored first over. If I rip the jugs off over the winter and port them with the templates is it an easy enough job? I have done almost everything to that shee (the 99) and am fairly confident I can handle this port job. Is there any hidden kicks in the crotch I need to look out for? As for performance, is it noticible? Should we just wait and have it ported by someone else for 600 bux or so or do it myself for roughly 200 bux after template and tool purchase? After porting is it a pain in the arss to jet? Should I have to rejet? Stock carbs on the 99 at sea level. Thanx alot for the help.

If you're gonna put on a cool head and some pipes, might as well do the top end. Throw in some Weisco pro-lite pistons, go with a noss head with 20cc domes, pro design filter plate with your choice of foam or K and N or the Toomey 2 into 1 filter, send your flywheel to boonman to get it lightned and buy an adjustable timing plate from RIcky Stator. For the dunes you cant go wrong with T-5's or CPI's. If and when I do it over again, I am gonna just go with CPI's and be done with it. Prices should be something like this 1. Piston kit 220 bux 2. bore job 120 bux (60 per jug) 3. cool head and domes 300 bux? 4. filter 100 bux 5. pipes 600 bux 6. lightned flywheel 40 bux? 7. timing plate 35 bux That total about 1400 bucks. Not too bad.

I bought my 99 new and paid 5400 OTD and added alot of bolts ons on. Probably about 2 grand in bolt ons and the top end job. I just put the usual stuff on, pipes, tires, reeds, cool head. Now I bought the 94 in my sig in December and it has everything I want to put on the 99, which is now my sons, i.e. extended axle and a arms, bigger carbs, works shocks, ported and polished, the usual upgrade stuff. The point I'm trying to make is I have about 4 grand more in the 99 and its not nearly as fast nor does it handle nearly as well as the 94 I bought used. Buy used, its cheaper and usually the smarter idea.

Dunes and open trails = Toomey T-5's. Pro circuit makes an outstganding pipe as well

If I remember correctly I think over 170 pounds of compression is when you should start running race fuel. I'm pretty sure that equates to about 19cc domes. We run 20cc domes on the 99 and are at about 165 pounds of compression, at sea level. We run half race and half super, to be on the safe side.

Outstanding. I wasnt good in school when I was good in school . Test taking sucks, no doubt but the studying that goes with it is worse. I am studying for a test for a promotion in my line of work as well and I'm hating it. Anyway, congrats.

yup

lightned flywheel and timing advance. Should be a grand total of about 100 bucks. Nice gain in performance.

WTF are you talking about?