LiftdT4R

Nice! I have lonestar hubs now, and they just use an allen bolt through the entire hub. I might replace the stockers with something like that. (see the pics below) As for the stock studs being shitty, I agree 100%, I had 2 strip out on me the last time I was changine my sprocket, before I got my LSRs, very very annoying.

Damn! That looks sharp. I never saw a Clark tank with a graphics kit on it, I've only seen the bare ones. If I had it to do again, I'd go that route.

I've done a few. There is loctite on them, so they will be difficult to get out, but not bad. First, you wanna thread 2 nuts onto the stud, and back one against the other. Then heat up the hub by the stud with an Oxy Acetaline torch to melt the loctite. Be careful not to burn yourself, and back the inner nut against the other one until you can get the stud to spin out. There are correct tools for this, stud removers, but all of them I have found are fairly expensive, and only sold as a set. I've used this method and it works fine for me. You will be able to get new studs from a dealer, and just use red locitite on them when you reassemble. The delear might be able to do the work for you too, although I don't know.

I had a set of FMFs with High Temp PC, and now I have a set of PT Mids with High Temp PC. They don't look half as nice as chrome, but if your riding trails and you want something thats gonna hold up really well, the PC does. Here's my PT mids:

Here's a blue 5.6 on my builup. I have a 4 gallon on my other shee. They aren't the best looking tanks, but of you trail ride, it will be a big improvement to your bike. Also, plan on putting on some bar risers. I think I havd to add 2" worth or risers to be able to clear the tank. Rocky Mountain ATV has a set of Tusk risers for $19.95.

Twist Throttle Sold Grill On ebay, couple hours left http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=330203510613 Dogbone on ebay, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=330205314545

Sale pending on the twist throttle. Still have the dog bone, and the rad cover is on flea bay. Bump Bump.

Bump Bump, everything is OBO, so dont be afraid to shoot me some offers, will be hitting e-gay soon....

Hey, what's up, cleaning out my garage, and I got a couple more parts. Everything is OBO. Polished rear linkage, seals are in great shape, 30 shipped OBO Motion Pro Twist Throttle, no cable, works perfect, good shape, 20 shipped OBO Also, still have the Maier Billet Grill setup, it's on e-gay now, but if you make an offer, I'll sell it on here. Right now I'm at 40 shipped.

Bump, grill on fleabay, at an even lower price, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=330203510613 check it out :beer:

That's what I was thinking, guess I gotta get off my ass and try to find something. I thought maybe I was missing a bracket, or there was a clever way to do it without fabricating anything.

Hey, what's up? Bought a set of Nology wires, and a Nology coil, I was wondering how you guys are munting the coil to the bike. It looks like the 2 bolt holes on the Nology coil are way closer together then the stock coil holes. Thanks, :beer:

Thanks bra! Also have a polished dog done, 30 shipped, and a motion pro twist throttle that needs a cable, 20 shipped. Will garb some pics soon.

Yes it is, here's some pics of the grill. It has bolts installed, and the grills can be changed with an allen key and 8mm wrench. Takes 5 min. 50 shipped!

Wow, I must have missed that in the original post. If you have +2+1 arms your going to be 16 9/16" from center of BJ to center of BJ. Mine actaully came to be a tad longer when I did mine. Otherwise the install is the same steps as in Clymer.

Stock arms, or +2+1s? If they are stock length arms, the length the tie rod should be with the ends adjusted out is listed in Clymer. That should get you close, and then you either back them out or set them in one turn, until your toe in/toe out looks good. The Clymer manual explains it very very well, if you dont have one, I'd highly suggest getting one. If they are +2+1s, the process is the same except, the length is obviously different. I figurd out the geometry once and wrote it down somehwere, I can find it if need be, but I think center BJ to center BJ is something like 16 1/2", but I can check to be sure.

Damn, trick or treat? Nice lookin' bike bra!

Stand up guy!! Would definately deal with again. Thanks bro!!!

Impeller is sold pending payment. I'll try and get pics today of the girll shorud. I know it's a long shot(no pun intended), but I'd also trade it for a Hogue stock for a Rugger 10/22.

Whoops, Torch Works sells the impeller for $40 new, so I will take 30 shipped on it.

Hey, what's up? Time to clear some stuff out that I'm never going to use. I have: Maier blue shroud with a Shark Racing Billet grill, never used, just mounted on bike, has very very minor scratches, and some sticker residue. Also have stock black plastic grill that can be changed back in. Over 100 new if you can find the Maier billet grill, 60 shipped OBO Billet Torchworks Impeller. Got it for free with my radiator, never opened it, and never installed, I allready have one on both my bikes so I have no use for it. Goes for 60 new, 50 shipped OBO I can grab some pictures later if someobdoy wants them, or if there is interest. Thanks!! :beer:

Bump for ya bro!! I think I'm set on everything here, unless you have a set of uncut blue rear fenders in near new shape.

KY, East Coast, gonna be much better off parting it out. Evereybody's looking for 4 pokes out here, depending on your mods. you can make almost double parting it out.

That sucks, the same exact thing happened to me a few months ago. That stocker is toast by the way, don't even try reusing it if the bearing didnt weld itself to the carrier. Buy a twin row carrier(has 4 bearings) if your going to stick with a stock arm. Or for a little more go roundhouse. That front end setup looks sweet. I don't like the YFZ front ends because they still don't have removable ball joints, but they do ride sweeeet.

Yeah, like he said, make sure the choke tube is there. You might want to check the slides and bowls on the carbs. If they are stock, the bowls are unique and cannot be swapped side to side, the slides MUST have the cutaway part pointing towards the air filters. Also, make sure your slides arent set too low, raise the idle a little, and try kicking again. Good luck bro!!