LiftdT4R

Hey, what's up? So Im still having my overheating problem. I went back to stock carbs from the 28mm Keihins. The engine is basiucally all stock except for pipes, a coolhead (22cc domes) +4 timing and nology coil. It still has the full air box. The engine is also off of a fresh rebuild. Pistols rings, bore and hone. The engine gets really hot really quick, and then the radiator starts puking out of the overflow tube. This is just from idling. Here's what I've checked so far: - Jetting, 260mains, 25 pilots, air screws 1 1/2 turns out, syched carbs, I ran this exact setup before the rebuild with 0 problems. -Plugs, BR8ES, look good, didnt do a plug chop though because the bike is overheating - Leakdown test, It was hard as hell to keep the plugs in the boots, but when I did it held 6 psi for 10 minutes with no drop. - Compression, has 120 PSI in both cylinders - Tore down and expected cooling system. Everything appears fine, the water pump turns easy, and none of the tubes looked clogged. Bike has an OS rad which is filled all the way up. I'm at a loss now, everything appears to be fine, but like I said, the engine and radiator are too hot to touch after about a minute of idling. My other banshee I can touch the engine after 10 minutes of idling, and it never ever gets this hot even after riding. I'm super lost on what's causing this, and I hate overheating a brand new engine. I looked inside the exhaust port when I had my pipes off, and everything looks ok, the cross hatching is still visible in the cylinder, but there was a lot of oil in the exhaust port. I think it's from the oil I put on the pistons when installing them though. Otherwise the rings are still on pistons, and they feel tight. If anyone has any suggestions it would be greatly appreciated. I have a trip on the 6th and I'd really like to bring this bike with me. But I can't get it to stop overheating when idling.

Even after the VIN is powdercoated over you should still be able to get it off the bike, you might have to scratch the powedercoat but it is definately there. If it's not, somebody's trying to hide something. That aside, if you can't get a title here in NJ a notarized bill of sale is also acceptable. I just typed one up in word with the VIN, vehicle type, seller's name, etc. and then have the seller sign and notarize it. Usually this is done before the sale is made. If you have a bike and forgot to do this(I'm not advising you to do this, but I have heard of people doing this), first go down to DMV run the VIN and make sure it's not stolen. If it is your fucked. If it's not get a buddy to right you out a bill of sale like he sold it to you and notarize it and you should be straight. Like I said, I don't reccomend commititing fraud, which is what that is. Otherwise good luck tracking down a title. ATVs get passed around so much the titles usually get lost or are never issued. I've never bought a bike with a title, and unless the bike is almost new I very very rarely see it around here anyway.

Soundls like it's slipping to me, thats where it usually starts because when the power band comes on your putting a huge load through the clutch. Look at the tranny oil, if the clutch is going it should be a milky white and have tiny metallic specs. I'd just replace it at this point though. Definately sounds like a shot clutch to me.

Yea if yoo dont keep that sucker lubed it's not going to come out. LOL I cut mine off, but it worked out ok because I was replacing it anyway. You should be able to pick up a stock swinger cheap used if thats what you have to do. Otherwise, try using a big brass bunch, and a big sledge and just pound the hell out of it. A little heat won't hurt either.

I see no one else is taking a crack at these so I'll give it a shot. 1st, this will be much much easier if you buy a Clymer's manual they will basicvally answer 99% of the questions you posted, definately worth the $20 or whatever they get for them now. 1 You can find used ones on here and flea bay all the time. People part out Bnahsees left and right. SHouldnt run you more then $80 or so, just make sure the ball joint is good because they can't be replaced. In the future and if you have the money you may want to check out +2+1 arms and some new shocks instead of dumping money into the shitty stock front end. 2 No secrets, pul the bolts and go. You will however need a 2 jaw puller to pull the ball joint from the steering spindle. Depending on how old the bike is and how well it was taken care of, sometime the bolts that mount the arm to the frame are seized up in which case a sawzall and grinder come in handy. 3ab Definately do the tranny oil. I use BelRay 2 stroke gear oil on mine, I never mess around with the mototr oils because they can smoke the clutch depending on the ingridients, and I never know if it will do that or not. Aside from that, general stuff like a coolant change, chain lube, grease all the zerks should probably be done too. Yes, 32 to 1 means 31 parts gas to one part oil, that is the most common ratio, its what I run, but some people run richer/leaner. You can use any high perfomance 2 stroke oil, I like the Yamalube R, but everybody has different preferences. You definately don't want to run oil for a 2 stroke chainsaw or outboard motor, make sure it is specifically for high performance applications. Also, I think it would be better to use 94 octane gas, the Super at most gas stations. 3cd Pretty simple to do, check the Clymer if you really need info doing that and the specs. 3e Search plug chop if your not sure if your jetting is right. But if you think its ok your plugs sgould be a dark/brown black color when you pull them out of your bike. Too dark = too rich, Too light = too lean. 4 A standard car compression test kit works fine. Basically pull out the spark plug, thread in your tester, and keep kicking until it stops going up. Presto, you have your compression. SHould be somewhere around 110-130 on a stocker, but I've let mine go down to 100psi before rebuilding. Basically it's a gauge of how the bore is worn. When it's worn out it wont make as much pressure and be difficult to start, less power, etc. Time for the old rebuild.

That is an awesome price for some really good trail pipes. If I didn't have a set allready I'd be all over that. Bump for ya!

Thanks guys! Yes, it is a direct drive cover, it doesn't appear to be wearing. so I'm going to leave it alone. I guess I'm back to the carb issue.

Ok, so I keep having the problem of my freshly built bike overheating while I'm trying to tune it. I pulled the water pump cover, and it seems like the impeller is really really close to the clutch cover, I snapped a few pics. I'm just wondering if this is normal, or did I fuck something up while I was putting the cases back together? Thanks guys, sometimes I just need a second set of eyes, I cant remember how ythe hell this looked before I tore it apart.

Wow, I've never heard of these breaking before. I ride mine through some pretty knarly shit, and havent even bent it, but then again I really don't do any jumping. I would try simple reinforcement, really all you need to do is weld some flat steel stock to it in either direction., just make sure clearence isnt an issue.

JETTING! The mains are probably way too big, but the pilots are probably just right. Post up what mods you have done (intake, exhaust, timing etc.) and what kind of carbs your running and someone should be able to help you out.

Hey, what's up? If anyone has a set of stock carbs in good shape hit me up. I would prefer w/ the TORS removed, but if it still has TORS and it is in decent shape hit me up too. Doesnt matter what size jets and pilots. Thanks, Jay

Yeah, I guess now that you guys mention it, it HAS to be the jetting. Like I said, the engine is tighter then a schoolgirl, with 6 psi for 10 min. theres no way it could be an air leak, and the coolant system works 100%, the coolant looked clean as hell when I drained it too. I'll try and go back to 48s, I'll most likely have to pick up 46s, because the 48s seemed to run really rich, like I said, I had oil out of the exhaust, and the air screws had to be all the way out for it to run. When I set up my carbs I use the carb synch tool, so I have to leave the air box off, its possible I let it run too long like that and thats maybe what overheated it. I just hate to be messing around and overheating a brand new motor before its even broken in. Anybody else running 28s? What size pilots are you guys using?

The rad was damn near full, top of the cores anyway. Jetting for the carbs is: 140 Main 42 pilots Needle is on the middle clip, or 3rd if it has 5 slots, can't remember, and its a 46jjh if I remember right The position of the idle screw varies depending on how hot the bike gets, I'm guessing it is a mixture screw? I tried to jet the bike with 48 pilots at first, but same deal, got real hot real quick, and it was spitting oil out of the pipes, so I went down to a 42. Stopped spitting oil, but still runs really hot. I think I'm pretty close on the jetting, the idle screw might be messing me up a little. I've never seen a bike overheat in 5 minutes of idling though, I would think it would be a bigger, eaiser problem to spot, unless I'm just way way off on the jetting.

Hey, what's up dude!!! Long time no see. I know theres no leaks from the leakdown test, and I wouldnt think the mains would affect it all that much at idle. I'm a little lost on this one, I was thinking 2 things: I have an OS rad, and I tried to put 2.5 liters in it, as stated it clymes, and it maybe took 1.5 liters (kind weird, thats only like 60% of the total amount). But I'm thinking maybe even at that I overfilled it. Or, maybe something in the carbs, I think I'm gonna try putting the stockers back on, but I would be a little pissed because I paid over $200 for these 28mm from CPW, and the guy on the phone told me they would be set up pretty damn close. It's not like I'm running a ton of mods, pretty starightfoward setup. If anyone has any input hit me up. Also, about how far do you guys fill your OS rads? Should the top of the inner core be above or below the water line?

Hey, what's up? thanks for the suggestions, I did a leakdown test with the RB racing kit I ordered a while back,, help 6 psi steady for 10 minutes before I took it off, so I don't think I have an air leak. I also took off the raditor, hoses, and water pump, no clogs in any of the lines, the water pump moves when the kicker turns the engine over, and it doesnt look bad oranything(its a billet impeller anyway). The bike has a cool head(22cc domes), and oversized rad, so it should have no problem staying cool. The engine is mostly stock with a Nology coil, +4 timing, and pipes. I tried to start it up after taking it apart, and same thing, it gets really hot really quick at idle. Takes about 2 minutes before the rad is too hot to touch, and then 5 minutes before the overflow starts. It runs ok, but just gets way too hot. I run 28mm Keihins, 42 pilot, not sure what size mains, but CPW set them up for me for my bike, and other people here running the 28mm Keihins had almost identical settings. Any advice would really be appreciated, I'm kinda lost as to where to go, maybe pull the head and make sure everything looks ok inside there. I'm thinking maybe its something easy that I missed.

Hey, what's up? So, I rebuilt the top end on my 01 Banshee, and I'm playing with the carbs trying to set them up, and I can't set the idle for shit. Also, the bike seems like its running really really hot, and it just doesnt rev right. I have 28mm Kehins and at first, the pilots were way way too fat, I went down a couple sizes, and now I think they are right, but I cant get the bike to idle for shit, no matter how much I play around with the slides or the mixture scerws. Also, if you rev the bike up, it won't come down sometimes, but the slides dfinatly arent sticking. And now the exhaust feels really weird out of the left side, more smoke and it puffs like. I'm thinking maybe pull the head and make sure the rings are ok. But, if anyone has info on what I'm doing wrong, it would be greatly appreciated, like I said, the bike sems to run really hot too, it doesnt overflow the rad unless it idles for a long time, or revs too much while idling though.

I didn't use engine ice, I just used plain antifreeze mixed 50-50. The 1.5 liters I put in seemed to move through the rad. After that I couldnt tell ya. Should the engine and rad be too hot to touch after only 5 min. of idling? Seems like too hot to me.

Ok, cool, thanks. I havent ridden in a long time, and I got bitten when I went to the dirt track last week, so now I'm trying to finish this thing. Anyway, I don't have a temp gauge, and I dont remember that well, but the rad, and bottom cases are definately too hot to touch after idling for about 5 minutes, is this normal? I don't remember my other bikes being this hot, but I'm not sure.

Hey, what's up? So, I'm still taking my time with my 2001 build, but I actually got her fired up today. Anyway, I tried to refill the coolant for the first time, an the Clymer manual says 2.5L, I so I measure out 2.5 liters, and I pur it in, and I only got to about 1.5 liters or so before the rad gets full. Anyway, I start the bike up for the first time and I notice it gets real hot real quick(I think anyway), so I shut her down, the rad still looks full, but I'm wondering maybe is the collant sysytem clogged somewhere, impeller or something. Anyway, I was wondering o you guys typically get 2.5 liters of coolant in, and if so, do you just pur it on in? Or pur it in, let it settle, and them wait? Thanks guys!!!

Nice, nice, lookin good bro.

Cool, thanks for the tip, I have a die grinder so I'll just throw one of the smaller bits on there, and then pick up some JB weld. Thanks guys!! Loco, what bike are you ridin' now? I remember about a year or so agao you had that sweet azz yellow YFZ, also, I like the new avatar!!!

Yeah, it starts at the bottom of the drain at the threads and goes to the top of the drain, it's basically a hairline crack I think it happened when I was shuffling te engine around while it was out of my bike. I'm thinking even a little high temp RTV might do the trick, but I wanted to see if anyone else had any other solutions. As always thanks :beer:

Damn, I took a look at her today in the light, and there appears to be a hair line crack on the top of the drain, running down the side. Must have been from when I last had the motor out. I just rebuilt this entire motor, and I really don't want to take the entire thing apart to replace the bottom case. Any suggestions? Maybe some JB weld? I can grab a pic if needed.

Yeah, I'm 100% sure, I took off the skid and I can see it seep out by the gasket, and then drop. When I removed the bolt, the drain looks fine, no beinds or cracks, and like I said, the gasket was new, so I'm kind of at a loss.

Hey, what's up? I havent been around in a long time, but I noticed the other day I have oil leaking out of my drain plug. The plug seems reasonably tight, and it had a brand new copper crush washer on it when I put it in. I was using 40 weight PJA oil though, and I think that may be too light, anyone else ever have this happen, if its just the oil I would gladly switch back to the 80 weight gear saver. Thanks!!!!