LiftdT4R

Hardee har har har, good one. :biggrin: Good to know, thanks, I hear a lot of people bad mouth banshees, but for the 3 I've had, and the 2 current ones, I have had very little problems (most of them were from my own incompetence). They are more fun then any other bike I've ever ridden, I'll always keep them to play around with. So, you can't always trust the bad talk, a lot of people just get bad bikes sometimes, or don't know how to work on them. On the other hand, I don't want to get into something that is just designed very poorly. I have some bad experiences with that. Thanks for the other replies!!! I have heard some bad stuff about their reliability and design. If anyone here has actually owned one, or used to own one as a trai/play bike I'd really like to hear what you thought about it. My problem is I don't really sell anything so if I pick it up and it sucks, it will sit in pieces at my house.

Hey, what's up? I found an older zilla for sale by me in what looks like pretty good shape. I was wondering if any of you guys here have dealt with these bikes before? I just wanted one to play around with in the woods, not going to be a serious drag/race bike or anything like that. Is there anything that goes on these bikes that is a really hard fix, or anything serious to look out for? I know the usuals when buying a bike, especially one that's 20+ years old. But I was basically wondering if the zilla is a good solid bike. I know my Banshees require a little bit of maintenance, but I do ride them hard, and I'm never disspointed.

If anyones looking for a fixxer upper or make some money from parting a bike check this out http://cnj.craigslist.org/mcy/776670011.html It's not my bike and I don't know the guy. Looks to be in decent shape with quite a few parts on it.

Damn, you can build a hell of a Banshee for 20k. I'd like to see this thing, doesn't sound impressive going by the description.

1/2 inch is probably too tight you should be more like 1.5". Loosen the carrier bolts and adjust it out, it only takes a few minutes. If your out of adjustment I'd just run it, not the end of the world. I've seen people run with no slack, youll just wear out the chain a lot sooner.

Thanks man. I've been running it for the past few days, the level in the rad is past the top of the cores, but it still oozes fluid from the top of the return to the rad. Otherwise it's running really good. It doesnt appear to be overheating, although the engine feels hotter then normal. I don't have time now to get one of the caps, every place around here only stocked the bigger size in 13 lbs and 16lbs. I'm thinking that I overfilled the rad and it will work itself out. The bike runs fantastic otherwise and I have checked EVERYTHING out. Thanks again for the help man.

Thanks for the info. Any chance you know what kind of car it would fit? On the website there are like 20 different part numbers for the cap. Different pressures and sizes I think. For $25 I just wanna order the right one. Thanks man!

It's gonna be tough to get that much for that shee out here. (Your a little too far north for the rebel flag) :yelrotflmao: Honestly that bike would probably fetch 2200 on a good day. Assuming you have the title and all. I'd ask 2500, and take offers it were me.

The Vato Zone by me didn't have them, neither did Advance Auto Parts or Pep Boys. I'm going to run the bike as is. I don't think it's running that hot since I syched the carbs and put the air box on. But it does still overflow a little out of the return hose on top. I'm just going to ride it and see what happens, I think I'm being too paranoid about it.

Yeah, pull the head and take look. For $15 for a gasket and $10 for coolant it's well worth it, easy to do too. For the $25 and 4 hours it will take to check it, I would much rather do that then rebuild a seized up engine. Also, you may want to do a compression test. Like the above poster said if your rigns are on their way out that could be one cause. Lower then normal compression will tell you this. It's not hard to do either as long as you have a compression tester. These 2 simple steps could save you a lot of time later on!!

On here! It's the older style with only 1 pinch bolt on either side. It was painted purple over rust and the carrier bearings (all 4) were shot. So I sandblasted it, sent it out for PC, installed new bearings seals, and chain sliders. And rode it. If you keep your eyes open and don't mind waiting there are some deals to be had on here, check craigslist too.

I'm just trail riding and I have a -1 LSR swinger with roundhouse carrier and skid mounts. See the pic of my 2001 in my sig. I think it's a good addition if you do the +2 +1 arms. It moves the center of gravity more towards the actual center of the bike, but not actually shortening the overall length (+1 out front, -1 in the back), and it will handle a lot better in the trails. Overall, I would NOT pay the $600 or whatever the company's are asking for a new one, it wont make that much of a difference over stock unless you are really really serious and have other suspension mods to go along with it. I picked mine up for 150, PCed it, and rebuilt the carrier so the hole thing cost me about $250. Don't forget you really should have the rear shock rebuilt (or buy a new shock) to match the swingarm. That's when I noticed an even bigger difference.

Keep the FMFs and sell me the Hi Revs!!!! For Dunes I'd probably take the PT pipes, the FMF Fattys are going to give you more low end, and a smoother hit on the powerband. The PT Mids are more compareable to the FMF SSTs (actually when I ran them I couldn't tell the difference). The Fattys are low end pipes, the Hi Revs are mid range pipes.

As far as the airbox, are you still running the lid, you just have vents it it? Got a pic by any chance? If so, I'd say your around a 270 or 280 main and a 27.5 pilot. Then your probably around 1 to 1.5 turns out on the airscrew. A 30 pilot might be too big depending on what that airbox looks like.

Well, I'd say your carbs probably need to be cleaned and synched. If you know your setup and jetting you should post that up in the jetting section and somebody can tell you if your close or not. I don't think it's related to the shifter return spring. Also, have you done away with the TORS? If not, I would suggest doing that it will save you a ton of headaches.

Ohh, cause I was going to say "Man! That sucks!". But I didnt want to look like a jerkoff.

Uhh is this a question?

I'm guessing you still have the air box, and stock carbs so here is about what you should be at. Also, you probably wanna mix 32 to 1, with 20 to 1 your wasting a lot of oil. 260 mains needles on middle clip 25 pilot (maybe even next size up) 1.5 turns out of the air screws That should get you in the ballpark, youll have to mess with it a little yourself to get it 100%

A trick I use on mine to make them fit is only use the hanging bolt on the silencers. It's the top one nearest to the back of the bike. Forget about the other 2 (the stud and lower rear). Most silencers only use 1 bolt anyway. This has worked for me in the past, next time I have the silncers off I'm going to grind off the stud, and lower tab.

That's probably a jetting problem. Assuming the hotter cylinder isn't running lean. Then the cooler cylinder is running richer. Lean means hotter. So your probably putting a little extra fuel into that cyclinder if it's cooler. As far as the snapping sounds, it's tough to say. Does it definately sound different then the other cylinder? Also, 10 degrees celsius is around 50 degrees farenheight, which is a decent difference. I would take off the carbs, and make sure you have the same jets/needles/clip position on both carbs. Also, have you removed the TORS? Now would be a good time. Then synch the carbs, at least youll have that problem eliminated.

I think so too. I know the front brakes changed when they went from jarms to aarms. But the backs should all be the same.

You dont have a part # by any chance or a link? I saw them on both of the websites but unfortunately when you have to select your vehicle they don't have a Banshee. I'll porbably just be able to bring my cap down to Vato Zone and get them to match it up though. Thanks man, big help!!

It's a cool head, so there's no head gasket, it's all O-Rings, but as for the base gaskets, that's a good question, I really don't remember, but I don't know how hard they are to mess up. But like I said, no air leaks. The YZ is a 1993, it's for sale too :biggrin: If your around NJ I'll give you an awesome deal on it, but it needs a clutch.

Hmm, thats what I was kind of thinking because I'm not stupid, and I don't think I fucked this thing up that bad. But again, it just seems to be running so much hotter then my 2002. I'm running an OS gas tank, so I can't use the regular temp gauges. Any idea on where to get one that goes on the cap???

Nope, billet impeller, gears are good, installed it at the same time as the rebuild.