LiftdT4R

Ditto. Your going to have to pull the carbs off the bike, and visiually inspect the floats and bowls. My guess is that youll have all that green gunk in there and they need to be cleaned. As far as setting the carbs hold the carb upside down with the bowl off, and the staright part of the float should be parallel with the edge of the carb where the bowl would sit. It might also be a good idea to change the little valve under the float. I've had those go on me too.

Whoa, didnt mean to turn this into a repeat of the last thread. All I'm saying is if I was strapped for cash I might take my chances with a timing key. But since I'm not hurtin' (yet anyway) Ill buy the timing plate. I just don't want someone to see these posts in the future through a search or whatever, and go "hey I'll save a few bucks by buying a timing key" then when it shits on them, they're going to go and say "wow, they are a bunch of tards on bansheehq". I just always like to see the repairs/mods section moving in the right direction and giving good advice.

Hey, what's up? If anyone has a rear caliper in good working order for sale, shoot me PM with how much youd like to get for it. Thanks!! :beer:

For the extra $20 or whatever its going for nowadays I'd rather have the piece of mind with a timing plate. If you think about it, there is less material in the same amount of shear on a degree key. It may not fail right away, but there also a higher likelihood it will fail in fatigue over time. I have seen posts on here and PS where there were shees that ate degree keys. +4 probably has enough material to hold up fairly well with moderate usage, but like I said, for $20 I'd go with the plate, cheap insurance.

Damn, the most I ever did was a bracket for my Nology coil.

SOLD!!!!!!!!

There is a section on it in Clymers, basically you take a straight edge and run it across the head, making sure there are no gaps between the straight edge and the head. You need to put it back together and do a leakdown test if the bore looks ok, and the pistons arent shot!! That's where your going to find your problems.

If you have an air leak, then it IS running lean. The air leak can occur anywhere you have a gasket or a seal. You need a leakdown tester along with a leak finding solution (ie soap and water) to find out where it is. If your pistons arent all burnt up, you could have ruined the bore, but I kind of doubt it. Can you still see the cross hatching in the cylinder from the hone? Just a guess, but it sounds to me like head may have had an air leak which screwed your compression test and cause the bike to lean out and overheat. I'm not looking at the bike, so this is just a guess.

Ohh yeah, I definately agree with you. It's not something thats good for the bike at all, but it has happened to me before, and the bike didn't overheat or blow up, that's all I'm saying.

Replied, lots of interest, but no solid deals yet.

PM returned, your a little ways away.

Uhhh what? Your going to have to put up a price, maybe even a pic, and a little bit better description of what you have if you want to sell it.

:yelrotflmao: Whoops! Thats a really good deal, bump for ya!

Hey, what's up? I decided not to use these carbs on my buildup, I went with a 2 into 1 instead. They do run strong in the woods, and are perfect to go along with an MX port. They are jetted for a MX port bike with a full air box right now. I have a few extra mains and pilots, shown in the pic, and an almost new throttle cable for a stock thumb throttle. I would like to get 180 OBO shipped for these. They are NOT the knockoffs, they are genuine Keihins with the serial numbers. Bowls and floats were just cleaned, these are ready to bolt up and go!!

Do you only have 1 silencer? Still a good deal, those pipes look like they are in primo shape.

Whoa, easy killer. You don't have anything to prove on this board. That sucks about the motor, if your clocking 60 and 30 its mostly likely blown. Were you running it really lean? I've idled bikes for 15-20 minutes, and its hot but not overheated or blown. There must have been something else at work. It's possible you have an air leak that leaned it out. I would do a leakdown test before you put the motor together next time. Also post up some pics of what your pistons look like when you pull the head. If for nothing else just so we can see what might have happened. Good luck bro!

^^ Really good advice, couldnt have said it better. He's right do the comp check, sounds like it just overheated and your carbs arent synched. Shees can't idle that long.

If you have TORS the only difference is you will use the TORS top to adjust the idle. Otherwise, same directions. But I would get the kit to do away with the TORS, more trouble then its worth in the long run. Ripper, yeah, I gots one, bring me a 6 pack of Red Dog you can borrow it. Bring me a 12 pack and I'll do your carbs for you. :biggrin:

Yes, definately remove that, it's a coolant drain plug. The trick is screw a very small screw into it and pull it out with a pair of plier, the hole plug should pop out. If you do it right you can reuse the plug, and you wont damage the cylinder. Make sure you use High Temp RTV on it when you put it back in. Also cylinders on mostly stock bikes don't get that hot. It is 100% safe to use regular PC on them. Thats what I have on mine and it has held up fine, even when the bike overheated. The ceramic coating may help the bike run a little cooler, but I don't know how much extra it costs. Pipes are a different story.

DONT TAKE IT TO A SHOP!!!! Not for just a carb sych anyway. Assuming your jetting is correct you buy a carb synch tool, I got mine from Jeff at FAST. There is a dial that basically tells you how much suction your making on a scale from 1 to 10. Then take off your air box/pods and start the bike. You want to set the idle screws on each carb when the bike is idling and make sure both the carbs read the same number. Then you push in the throttle a little and set the slides so the dial reads the same for both carbs again. Thats it, it's really easy. I dont know what the shops are getting nowadays but its cheaper and more rewarding to do it yourself.

Thanks for the replies. I think I'm going to stay away from this one. It looks decent and the dude wants 1800 for it, but I dont have time to learn a whole new bike, and most of the reviews seem to be negative from what Ive read. Thanks again for the advice, maybe in the future when I have some time and $$$$$.

Yeah, even if the bike is blown it's still worth that in parts. I'd pick it up myself, but I have TOO many projects goin on.

Are you running a full air box? Lid and all? Irf you are then you should be around 260 mains 27.5 pilots Air screws 1 turn out Needles on middle clip It should run a little rich in the winter and your going to have to use the choke to start it, but you shouldnt really have to rejet in the winter unless its really really cold, like below 0.

Honestly I think the best hangers are the stock Yamaha ones. They have a rubber grommet in between the two of the hanger pieces so it won't rattle your frame to death. I just don't trust the solid aluminum modquad/aftermarket ones. Without that grommet your transferring al ton of vibration to the frame, so the potential for cracking is there. As far as melting the air box, I think I've had that problem with every set of pipes I've had. I've never had a set melt through the airbox, but they do leave a mark. It's just the way their made, plus every frame is going to vary a little bit, so it's just gonna happen. As far as the jetting your going to have to post up what kind of setup you have (mods, outside temp, elevation, etc.) And what jetting your running now and we should be able to tell you if your close.

Personally I prefer the cuban links :yelrotflmao: Chains are like pipes, everyone swears by the chain they use. Ive tried like everything under the sun on my bikes and quads. Like NYUK said, the Regina chains were nice, pre stretched is the way to go. If you take care of it, and its decent it should last a long long time.