LiftdT4R

Long time no see. Sucks this deal is going this way, pretty serious matter now...

When I did my bike, a 2001 a couple years ago it had both stuck, I had to cut both with a swzall between the arm and mount and pull the arm out. You can then take off the dust caps and dump the bushing and bolt. Whe you put them back together put some anti-seize on the bolts before you put them in the bushings.

This has been covered hundreds of times, try using the search there are plenty of long threads about this topic. I run Yamalube, and I think most people are running 32:1.

You shouldnt have to change jetting for a timing adjustment. You may have to bump up 1 main sizeif the bike feels a little hotter, but most people don't change anything for a timing adjustment. Your not putting more or less air through the carbs.

Bump, this is the last of it, crank, trans, pipes and rear skid.

Sorry, pipes and silencers must go together.

Last bump before these hit fleabay tonight. Will take 150 shipped today only!!!!

The 28s are good carbs, I ran them for a bit, and I liked the power delivery a lot. I did however have a little trouble getting them dialed in. Not too many people run them so it's a little tough to get really accurate jetting specs like you can with stockers. The choke knobs are also a bitch to deal with, each carb has it's own knob, and the one on the ?right? carb sits inside the bike where it is tough to get too depending on which pipes you run. Have you looked into a single carb setup? A lot of guys run them for trails and like the low end. I used to run one but I thought it kind of lacked the top end like dual carbs do, if you run a lot of wide open stuff like fireroads or fields you might not be happy with it. I'm running 34mm PJs on my bike now, and I like them a lot, they work pretty good in the tighter stuff, and haul when theyre wide open. I think they're pretty good all around carbs, but I would like to go back to 30s or 28s if I didn't have to mess around with the jetting so much.

Pro Circuit never made cases. I would be willing to bet that's what happened. Someone scratched the original engine serial, and added their own.

Hey, I would think you'd be able to get around 3000 for it if you sold it outright maybe even a bit more, although you might have to sit on it for a while. I would think it would bring more if you parted it out and it might even be quicker depending on how much time you have. If you do part it let me know, I'd be very interested in the front end.

Hmm, that's usually a slide issues. Because when the slide and needle come back down they effectively close the main jet and cut off fuel. Do the sledes go up and down easy? You can apply a light coating of grease to the sldies and it should make them slide inside the carb much easier. The throttle cable may also be getting hung up somewhere too. It is also possible that you may have an air leak around the carbs/filter/intakes, that is pulling in air from the outside. When the bike is at idle sparay some starting fluid around the intakes and seals and see if the bike revs up.

Stock carbs? I was never a big fan of moving the clip on stockers, I always kept it on the middle notch, 3rd, and adjusted the jets accordingly. If you search around almost everyone is on the middle notch, so you should be able to find jetting specs for your bike that are really close. Or else post up your setup and someone can help you out.

Easy way to ruin the threads. Use a 2 jaw puller, should pop right out.

Hey, I just pulled 1 out of a bike I was parting out. I'm guessing you saw my post. The consensus there seemed like they were good pistons but you will have to have the bore setup for a forged piston when you have it bored, which the WSM ones are.

Nice clean shee!! Where in LI are you? I have a buddy that's interested.

Bump

I would try a press. Failing that you could try using a 2 or 3 jaw puller to take it off, or even a little bit of heat from a torch although it will probably make a mess out of the oil seals.

X2. I run one! I've had twist on a couple of my bikes in the past, and it's fun to ride for the first couple hours your out there, but it's very easy to get into trouble with. The thumb is much easier to ride, and more comfortable. I was never a big fan of the stock thumb throttle though, my thumb used to get really sore really quick. The terry cable one is much nicer, I can ride all day and feel fine. You can also look into putting a 400ex thumb throttle on the bike as well, works much better.

Thanks red!! I haven't seen you around in a while. I always like to see what kind of stuff your romping on, always something new and interesting. Do you still have the brandy new 06 white shee that you bought a while back? Thanks!! Come on people, I'm really suprised these haven't sold yet. Bump!

No, if I remember right only silencers FMF makes with spark arrestors are the Turbine Cores, which would fit on these.

Good to know about piston/skirt slap. I went to school for engineering but unfortunately it was civil, so I'm not really familiar with any automotive terms. I figured the head wasn't worth anything, I usually don't sell them anyway, I hang them on the wall in my shop. I'm up to 8 now. Both cylinders are on the same bore, 0.50 over, so I'm not sure why 2 different pistons were used. Would that be the most liekly explanation for the low compression?

You may want to buy a Clymer's if you don;t already have one. Without tearing the cases apart you can make sure the crank isn;'t bad by checking the play in the rods. You should have a little side to side play, but no up and down play. It would also be a good time to replace the reed petals if they look bad, change the oil and coolant, and make sure you install all new gaskets. You could clean the carbs while its apart too, just don't mix up the parts as each carbs has some parts that are unqiue to it in there. Also, if you don't have a billet impeller now would be a good time to do one of those too. If the bike was running decent before you pulled it apart you might not want to go messing around with a lot of stuff before you put it back together. The more things you vhange at the same time the more chance of error there will be and it makes it hard to track down problems. If you change one thing ata time it is much easier to see where you went wrong. Just my experience when I was starting out messing around with my bike.

Wow, that totally sucks, sorry to hear about this again dude. If you need anything let me know, all I have left from my partout is small stuff, but if you need front spindles, hubs, rear linkage, aluminum skid, anything like that let me know, I don't want any money for it, just pay the shipping, shoot me a PM if theres anything I can help ya out with. I can also give you a heck of a deal on a working trans and good crank, as well as some worn out cylinders. Good luck on getting this made right, I would be insanely pissed if someone did this to me.

Ohh I think he'd give you a heck of a deal on it.

Thanks for the reply, that's good info!! These are from a bike I'm parting out, and I have no intention of running them. The problem here was there was 1 Wiseco piston, and 1 WSM piston in the bike. I believe one is forged and the other is machined. Not sure why the PO used 2 different pistons. The cylinder this piston came out of had the dome pretty well chewed up and only made 100PSI, while the other cylinder had 125PSI and a Wiseco piston in it. I'm guessing that the bores were indeed setup for machined pistons but the PO used this one by accident, or didn;t care which caused the bore to wear out prematurely. I usually like to check out the good the bad and the ugly when I part out bikes at least for my own education so I don't do the same thing when I rebuild mine. Thanks again fort he info!!!