LiftdT4R

If your floats arent adjusted properly then the carbs may leak gas while it is on. Keep an eye on it. Aside from being a potential fire hazard it wont hurt the bike.

I'm not so sure about that. From a reliability/durability standpoint both the dual carbs and the single carb are going to be the same. That is why a single carb is bigger, so you can get more fuel into the bike. Typically you see either 33mm or 35mm single carbs. Whereas stockers are 2-26 mm carbs. Assuming the install has been performed correctly, the carbs/carb are tuned correctly both should be just as good for the engine.

This has been covered ALOT, if you search youll probably find a TON of info. Basically it is easier to tune and will give you a little more low end, but youll lose a bit of the top/mid. Usually you see them on trail bikes. I ran one and didnt like it. I am back to a dual setup again. I think it's a big preference just like most other stuff on shees, some people are going to like them and some wont.

I'd run 32:1, there are some people that like to run it lean like 50:1. I have heard that it will make a bit more power with less oil, but I dont think its worth chanicing it especially if your just playing around. Run the 32:1.

Yeah? Any chance you can get RZ350 stuff? Thats the way to go for a Banshee engine swap.

Its def in front of the stem, and then on the left in the bracket that sits there.

Ive never heard one run, althought I'm sure there is a video on youtube somewhere. Id really like to see someone splice on into a Banshee, but they are freakin hard to come by.

Nice! I'm assuming you at least needed new pistons. Post up some pics of the zilla, I always like seein them big 500s.

Wow bro, looks like you have a little bit of a project on your hands. I would have parted that bitch and made bank on day one. You could turn a few benjamins ifyou have the patience to part it on flea bay. It is always nice to see someone actually clean up and care for a Banshee though. :biggrin:

Im gonna vote for the T5s, but only because I like the low end on them. If you dont care about or want the low end, then go for the CPIs. Depends on how big the fields are too. :biggrin:

Not sure if that helps, you can see the clutch cable in the pic. Basically comes from the arm, under the right side carb then up around the pipes up the stem, under the bracket at the top and into the lever.

I wanna say its an M8x1.25 but maybe someone will chime in that knows for sure.

Couple a pics for ya, Id love to mess around with one of thse, but it certainly wouldnt be an easy fit in a basnhee frame.

If it were my bike I would use this as an opportunity to change out some seals and freshen up the motor. I would pull it all apart and clean it up, as well as check the crank for straightness (procedure is detailed in the Clymer manual). And make sure there is no up and down play in the crank bearings (side to side is ok). There is also a section in Clymer for checking out the codition of the bore. I would also look at the pistons and make sure there arent any cracks or scoring. I would say that if your crank, pistons and bore are in good shape and you have cleaned everything out that the bike should be good to run. good luck!

Best bet for trail would be to ditch those CPIs and go with a trail pipe. The cpis will make a lot of power higher in the revs. Fmfs are a dime a dozen on flea bay, and are an awesome cheap trail pipe. There are mor expensive choices too. As far as porting, basically every builder does a trail/MX port, find a good builder and give em a call. Hope this helps.

It's a brand spanking new bike that's never been started. So if you take a 7500 MSRP, and figure 8000 in parts and labor, I don't think thats too far off. The bike sure looks like it is setup right, not just thrown together. The guy also has the "make an offer" button which means he is probably willing to go even lower. I personally wouldnt shell out 15k for the bike because I'm not a big fan of the newer Hondas, or 4 strokes. But I dont think the bike is overpriced by any means. I know those FOX shocks aint cheap!

Is that an engine skid? Ive never seen that one before.

How does the impeller look too? Is it the stock plastic one? Might be nothing left of it. But I'm willing to bet it's an issue with the head sealing since thats when it started. Make sure your radiator cap is on tight, and is good too.

FAST, quick turnaround, excellent dude to deal with. Didnt know about HJR at the time, may use them for my next build just to try something a little different.

What kind of skid is the "skid plate brand new"? If you have a pic that would be great.

I guess I havent seen it all..... This adds another dimension to drag racing.

I have seen them before, but they are extremely tough to come by, it also is a very big engine, and won't bolt up to the stock shee engine moutns or even fit in the stock frame without modification. It would be much cheaper and easier to get a Cheetah PV, or use the stock banshee bottom end to build a 500.

Uhh is that your auction or something?

A stocker will be an o-ring. Most Banshees chains are o-ring even if you dont specifiy at a cycle shop they usually just give you an o-ring chain. Like the above poster said, just look between the links.

I would crack the clutch cover and see what's going on in there. The tusk clutches are pretty good depending. And depending what kind of motor your running they should hold up well. If this did this from the start Id be willing to bet that it is either 1- a defective clutch or 2- an error somewhere in the install. But if your running a mild motor the tusk clutch should work fine. Ive run them for a while now on both my bikes with no issues.