LiftdT4R

Most likely the water pump gasket is bad, or the plate is not sitting in there correctly. I would pull the clutch cover and take a look around the water pump area. If there is coolant in the tranny oil, 9 ties out of 10 its because the water pump isnt sealing up right.

Welcome to the HQ. The coolant shouldnt have shot out of the rad if the bike was cold. If youve taken the head off you have to buy a new gasket before installing it again. I would check to make sure the head isnt warped too. You can use a straight edge and run it along the head. The tolerances are listed in the Clymer manual, or maybe someone can post them. I would also check the impeller in the water pump. A lot of time the stock plastic ones strip out and then don't circulate the coolant. An aftermarket billet aluminum one will work much much better. You may also want to check the radiator cap too. I had a bad one once and it cause the cooling system to loose presure and then the bike will overheat. Also, you shouldnt have to fill up the overflow, most people don't even run them on their bikes. Just the radiator to the cores should be fine. Good luck!!!

Really?! I was totally thinking black. That would look alot better. Especially if you do the hubs red, tpo go along with the black/red plastics.

A future banshee engine swap project? I'd hate to see all the useless emissions shit they would load this thing down with though.

That's pretty bad ass. I dont think we'll see them here, seems like another concept that will never see the light of day. although I have to admit I would definately pick one up even though Ive never been into the street bike scene. Bad ass pic too:

Allllu Akbar!!! Nice vid!! That's pretty crazy!! Next time post it up in the video section, it will probably get more views.

Have heard about this before. You may have an electrical issue. It generally happens when the engine misfires/backfires during starting, and the engine will actually run in reverse. It is really really bad for the bike. You will grenade the bottom end if you run it like this for any length of time. I'd check out all of the electrical stuff after you pull the clutch cover and see what damage has been done.

They did do a nice job. I have to ask because no one else did, what happened to you when you hit it? It seems like you could have almost been tossed over the cab. That had to hurt a little to say the least. That's why I ditched the twist throttle on my bike, too many close calls.

Crazy shit! I wanna see what she looks like. I have a feeling she is a big girl.

Theyre foward kick right? I started out on a Kawie Mojave and it was the first and last bike I ever had with a foward kick. Busted my shin so many times on that thing.

Yeah, I think they had the pink powerbands that year too, always good for another 4~14 horse. 3k for that bike is steep!!!

http://cnj.craigslist.org/mcy/1231626810.html So, I guess its official, all of those posts that ask about the ebst year for the Banshee have been answered. 1996 has a better computer that makes them ride better.

Nice frame, wish I ahd the 3k to shell out for it, would make for a nice R. I can't imagine there to be a huge market for these. No ones raced the Rs in years, and you don't see very many of them around (I guess that's why they only made 3 this year).

I'll second that, been usin it for a while, no leaks. Tel me your wearing a shirt in the pic in your sig?!?!?! :woot:

Awesome lookin' bike, bump for ya bro!! I like the CJ even better!!! :biggrin:

There are only 2 grounding points on the bike. 1- Under the voltage reg to the frame, and 2- Under the coils up front. There is no way to test a CDI other then swap in one that you know is good. When I was running into electrical problems with my bike, I pulled the entire harness, unwrapped it, made sure everything matched up, did away with all the TORS shit, and wrapped it back up. I havent had an electrical problem since. The electrical fAq is awesome, and this: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/banshwdc2.jpg picture is especially helpful. It gives you the bare bones of what you would need to do to make the bike run.

I'll keep my eye out for that. I just had my clutch cover off too. :ohmy:

Ahhh, typo, my original post should read "you shouldNT be much higher then 210*F or so." I typically run around 170~180 when I'm out, I'll hit 200 on the tighter trails. 230 is def too high.

Really depends on what all needs to be done to it whether its worth fixing or not. But even for 800, you could always say fuck it, and part it out and make money off of the deal. I know out here in Joisey you can score running banshees in ok shape in the 1200 range.

Anwhere around 180*F or so, you should be much higher then 210*F or so.

There is a thumb screw on the top of the TORs, I beleive turning it right raises the idle. If you don't have the TORs, or want to get rid of the TORs then youll have to tap an idle screw into the side of the carbs.

Fuckin a, not bad man! Hows she run? Id keep an eye on the bottom end, especially the crank. If MacDizzy is still around I knew they were a great board for the zillas as well as anything2stroke.

That is an awesome deal for somebody right there. These are EXCELLENT trail pipes!! Bump for ya bro!!

If I didn't allready have one, Id definately shell out $200 for one. I think I paid close to 300 for mine. I would think between here and e-bay you could probably sell quite a few for 200 beans.

Dammit! I was hoping the post at least had pics. Why do I have the feeling this dude probably has the shark teeth front bumper and the google eye headlights?