LiftdT4R

Wow, all the teeth were broken off?? Usually when one goes you really really notice, stop riding it, and replace the basket. That is very odd.

dont think the link is working

Bump bump, stuff is goin pretty cheap, and have more stuff goin up soon.

That would be the spanish to english translation of Banshee. I'm diggin the cut fullbores with the 5 gallon tank. Dude should ditch that shitty graphic on there.

Thanks for the reply, I was still wondering about this today. No chance its from the clutch either huh? I usually clean up pretty good after UI work on stuff, but there is a chance that its leftover from working on the YZ. Could have sworn I took it out of the bottom end of the engine I'm taking apart though.

SOLD Thanks for looking!

Road trip it bro, pick up thw hole bike. :biggrin: I'll even throw in as much free beer as you and your buddies can drink once you get here.

Flywheel is sold. Make an offer on the stator if need or else it will probably just be junked. Also check out my flea bay stuff. I'm listing more stuff including cases, tranny, clutch parts, etc. http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/goodz417

They are the old style LRD pipes and silencers. They havent been made in probably 4 or 5 years. They are adjustable so you can tune the bike for low end, mid or top, they are currently adjusted all the way out, and perform comparable to FMF Fattys. I had them adjusted in more for fire roads and such, and they pull will hard up top then.

Bump

Before they go up on ebay I have an old flywheel, a little rusty, but works great, comes with nut and woodruff key. And an early stator, has the early plug ends. The pickup and charging coil is fine, but the lighting coil is toast. It reads 14 ohms when tested. A little rusty but the bike ran fine before I removed it, would make for a good spare, or on a drag bike with no lights. Shoot me offers for one or both, youd be surpised what I would take.

Very long article, but very good. Always interesting to see how they are trying to build a future 2 stroke.

Check the resistance first!!! An ohm meter is 10 bucks versus whatever a stator is going for. Make sure you buy the ststaor with the right plug ends if you do go that route.

Bump bump

Holy shit!!! Def not for me, I'm in uhhh a different line of work.

64.5, or typically the second bore.

Hmm, when I did mine, I just welded flat stock up along the vertical hoop round rails. Unfortunately I don't have pictures, but I'm sure you could find them somewhere. Just mock it up first and make sure the flat stock doesnt interefer with the gas tank.

Your going to have to check the resisitances of the coil per the Clymer manual. If I had to take a guess I would say; There are 2 coils inside the one, there is a charging coil(for spark) and a lighting coil(for lights). My guess would be is that the lighting coil is burnt out and you would need a new stator. From experience the lighting coil goes before the charging coil. Now your going to have to check the resistance to be sure, but your probably going to need a new stator, and make sure the stator gasket and stator cover are sealing up good too.

Allright, I'm going to give this a second shot, I was going to sell it a few months back but didnt quite have all of the kinks worked out of my 2001 build. This 2002 I have used for the last 2 years mainly while I was building my 2001 project bike. I don't need 2 Banshees anymore, and I really do need a jet ski, so its gotta go. I will do 2 grand cash for anyone on the HQ, I am VERY FIRM on that price, and will not go lower, but I do have a ton of spare parts if you need anything. I did all of the work myself on this bike, and everything has been inspected by me, so its not some local yocal tooling around, I know what I'm doing. It has: +4 timing LRD Adjustable Exhaust Body and Swingarm skids PRM front bumper Maxxis Razrs all around on aluminum rims 125PSI compression both cylinders, about 4~6 hours now on a top end re-build PRO Flow filter & Adapter AC Proline Nerfs Plastics in decent shape, all UFOs Bike has OS tank as well as stock tank(both included). All Fluids changed the beginning of the season -1 Sprocket up front(a little more low end for trails) Moose Racing Bars 260 Mains with 25 Pilots, carbs just cleaned, and synched the proper way with the tool. There is ABSOLUTELY NOTHING wrong with this bike. This bike has been a very very reliable and durable bike. I just did front and rear bearings, the TORS has been removed (the proper way). And this bike is in AWESOME condition. Notarized bill of sale and current registration included. No Trades, unless you have a Sea Doo XP in phenominal shape. The bike runs hard:

Nice frame, and bump for ya dude. I'm sure people will be asking, this is a stock geometry frame.

Yeah, fuck it then, your best bet is to trey to break them with a hammer and a long common screw driver and pull them out.

What is it with you and tires???? :biggrin: I run Razrs on mt 02 with about 4 psi all around and like them just fine. I have Holeshot HDs on my 2001, and I like them a little better but they are a lot more expensive. I run 4 psi all around on those too. I'm guessing your still running those baragain basement Knarlies? Which are fine for tooling around, but I ran them for a little hare scramble in upstate NY, and thought they sucked for any serious trail riding. They didnt clean well at all after going through mud, even at low pressures, and they started to chunk the first day I had them. 4~5 psi should do you just fine for hard pack and dirt trails, but if its sandy or really muddy Id run closer to 2~3.

Brass or Plastic? The plastic ones suck, your probably gonna ruin them. For the brass ones I use a long brass punch and kinda get them on an angle on the edge of the bushing. If you beat around the edge they should slide out. Sometimes they come out easy, sometimes, I ruin them. EDIT: by the way, the bikes looking super sick bro, I still gotta try and make it up there to go ridin with yall. I dont do much hillclimbing, but I heard theres some pretty sick trails up there.

I'm usually pretty good at cleaning shit up, but there is a possibility its from one of my YZs. I think its from the bottom end because I think Ive seen it before.

I hear ya, it is time consuming to do it right. I don't know of any Banshee shops in Jersey, just dealerships, and local service stations that repair quds. A dealership (stealership) would be your best bet. I don't trust a lot of them for jetting and such, but a bottom end rebuild they should be able to handle, if not they should make it right in the end. How far North are ya? Id definately be willing to give ya a hand if you end up needing help on a weekend or something. As long as your just droping in a new crank and have all the parts, its not a bad job, should be easy to finish in a day.