LiftdT4R

Bump for ya bro, some really good deals there. Awesome dude to deal with. If you get stuck with the j-arms hit me up, I need them for for a build, but I'm really low on cash.

Yeah, I allready have the ebay auction scheduled for tonight, soI just thought Id post them up real quick since Ive allready paid the listing fees.

Awesome bro!! It's nice to see someone still racing these antiquated machines. :biggrin:

Bump, a few more cheap parts up. Also have some engine cases going up in the next day or so. They look nasty but seal up and work just fine. Shoot me an offer if you wane before they go to flea bay.

Sounds like a good idea, the only problem would be then, how do you coat the bare metal where the PC was stripped off. I guess I could try painting it again and mayeb that would work. I was wondering if there is anything like machinsists bluing that could be put on it to make the VIN more visible. The bike is registered and I have the VIN# written down, but I dont want to have an issue where I get into trouble for not having a VIN thats clearly displayed.

Yeah, it wasnt even that clear before I powdercoated the frame. What do you guys do after you PC your frames, do you just not worry about it?

I ran a 48 Pilot and 140 mains. As far as the correct needle, if you call up Carb Parts Warehouse and buy stuff from them they should help you out with the right needles.

Once every other year, but if I put probably only put 10~15 hours a year on my bike.

I have the jetting specs for your setup written down somewhere. I have the same setup, and I used to run the 28s, they are good carbs, the Mikuni 30s wont be any easier to tune. Ill try and dig out my old jetting specs tomorrow.

Ditto Those anime boards are killin' it tho, I thought that shit was for pedos?

Post up some pictures of the actual shirts when you get them. I'll probably take one in a med.

Hey, what's up? I know this has been asked before, but I couldn't seem to find anything. For those of you that have PCed your frame, what do you do to make the VIN # readable again? I can see the VIN, but it is very very faint and the last part of it is unreadable. The only reason I ask is that even though I have the bike registered I got stopped by a sheriff in NY, and he wanted to check to make sure the VIN and reg matched. We looked at the frame for half an hour, and couldnt get the last 4 or 5 digits. Since he saw the frist 12 matched he was nice enough to let me go, but warned me other officers may not be so nice. I have a big trip coming up in August and the last thing I need is to get my bike impounded miles from home.

Still havent found out where/what this is from, but my YZs both ran fine this weekend, so I'm guessing/hoping it wasnt from them. I recently parted out a motor, and I thought it was from there, either way, I guess it doesnt matter, it just bugs me to find pieces where I dont know where theyre from. Thanks guys, appreciate ya looking!!!

Holy shit man, I saw your post before, and you werent kidding!! My guess is the previous owner just let the teeth fall off one by one and kept using it. The 5 gallon tank is nice, espceially for long rides, Ill never go back to my stocker after using it. If you have the loot go for a Hinson Billet Basket, nicest out there.

If you have a dremel or angle grinder the wire wheel for those works pretty good as well.

If you have a new/newer RS stator its probably junk! There have been plenty of threads about how shitty they are. Try to rerturn it if you can and snatch up a good stocker. The stockers you need also depends on the year of the bike. There is an early style one, and a later one, the only thing that chanegs is the connectors though.

If your looking for a cheap, heavy duty wheel, ty the Quad Rocks, they are very very thick aluminum. If your looking for the BEST wheel for trails, then go with the Hypers, but they def arent cheap tho.

Now now girls....... Never heard of him, if he has good feedback Id say its worth a shot though.

I've never seen and always wanted to do, white frame/a-arms/swinger with white plastics and red shroud. Maybe throw a little red in the frame stuff like the rear carrier and front hubs. Classic old school Yamaha colors.

PM loco or post it up in the website issues forum. Fuckin spammers.

:yelrotflmao: "Cause if you buy this it's your loss my gain. (finally someone honest on here!)" Fucking classic!!! Somebody invite this dude to the board!!!!

Damn bro, everbody's offloading Banshees, bump for ya, nice bike!!

Got a pic of the bag of miscellaneous needle valve assembly's,main jets and pilot jets-$20 shipped ?? I'll most likely take it.

Near Jersey? I have probably 5 or so. Dont use the advance keys, they have less material so they are easier to shear apart.

When the clutch rides inside the teeth it wears small grooves in them over time. Here's an example from a clutch I pulled: When the grooves get deep/bad enough, the teeth will break off. But whenever one goes it usually gets jammed in gears, and causes the bike to luck up, not to mention the clutch has like a loose feel. If you didnt notice, and kept going then they would break off one by one, but IF you had 2 teeth floating around isnide the clutch cover, I would think that would be enough to really foul up something. Ive seen 2 go, never all of them though. The clutch above is still fine to run, but if the grooves get really deep, then you shouldnt re-use the basket. A clutch thats out of adjustment will accelerate the wear on the basket too. The only explanation I could think of for this to happen would be that the dude saw a tooth fall off, removed the tooth, but kept reusing a basket that was missing teeth until 1 by 1 they all went. But youd have to be pretty fucking dumb to reuse a part that is obviously bad.