LiftdT4R

Awesome, thanks man, I knew they're had to be something to do for that. Unfortunately I decided to keep the stock arms, which I know is going to be a problem down the road(the ball joints were reallll stiff, and had a few rust spots here and there) So I anticipate taking it apart again if and when I get to riding it. Any advice on whether I should tighten the nuts to spec, or just say fawk it, and crank 'em snug. Thanks!

by your area code, I'm guessing your in Maryland. Send pics to hupp@eden.rutgers.edu if possible, thanks man!

Hey, I decided to say fawk it, and keep the shee. I have a Raptor to ride while I take my sweet time to fix it up. That, and the guy never showed, so anyway. Everything I've ever owned has been a product of my back-yard engineering. I had a terrible time pulling apart the control arms because of the frozen bolts, so before I go screwing it up again, Should I be using a torque wrench to tighten the bolts on the front end to spec, or can I just snug them. I hate braking it out, but if it is worth the extra effort, I will certianly do it. I was just wondering whtrher or not it matters, I know the nuts for the mounts have an extra ridge on them that hold them on. I also will try to grease them once a season too, they were bone dry when I pulled them last time. Also, I will be pulling the ass end apart soon, should I be using a torque wrench anywhere there as well. Thanks for the input!

SOLD, thanks for the offers!

Sale Pending.....

Sorry, no title. Bought it off of my buddy in '03, he paid cash at the dealership, and never got the title so he wouldnt have to pay tax. It is NOT stolen, DMV can run the VIN for you, which I will provide if you like. If your still interested shoot me an e-mail, or I'll give you a call. I do have a hand written recipept from my buddy, and I am willing to provide one. Thanks, Jason

Must go, sadly, I don;t have the time to work on it anymore, and it has to go as is. Needs front re-build, I have the re-build kit, and parts, just needs shocks. Asthetic condition is OK, has some minor rust, needs a few things here and there. Enginer and drivetrain are strong, never had any problems here. Also, has 4 like new Razr tires, only used for about 4 hours. FMF platnium pipes, has rust though. Every thing you need is here except for front shocks, I just need it out, I don't have any time to re-assemble it, and I don't really want it anymore either. Feel free to e-mail me, hupp@eden.rutgers.edu or IM me, PQJ. Must go! Any reasonable offers will be considered(Don't offer me $10, or even $11 for that matter). Thanks!!!!! When it was last together it looked like this.(But it has a new DG bumper, and I also have a full front fender. By the way, I am locted in Piscataway, NJ, about 10 min. from New Brunswick.

central Jersey here too, Piscataway

damn, next time you guys head out there, hit me up, my screenname on AIM is PQJ, or PM me, would love to go, porbably won't have the banshee back together for a month or so, but I have 125s and 80s, I could bring out. LOcated in central NJ here. Thanks, Jason

awesome, thanks for helpin' a newb out, I've ownder tons of yzs in the past, but this is my first ATV, awesome quad so far. Thanks again, Jason

Does anyone know where I can buy A-Arms to replace my stock ones that are the same specs? I do not want to go any longer/any wider, but I would like something with a removable ball joint, and a lifetime warranty. I was going to re-powdercoat my stock ones, but it really isn't even worth it, they are so beat! I wanted to use my stock shocks and all too, so I was not crazy about going longer/wider. Thanks again for the help, finally got the last of the pivot bolts out up front, that was a bitch and a half! Jason

thanks, I tried to break out the sawzall, but I have had no luck, I tried to bend back the frame mounts a bit to get at it, but not really any room to work there. This one's really got me, I am off Thursday/Friday, and I allready spent the better part of the day trying to remove a signle bolt. Any other tips would be greatly appreciated, Jason

Ok, gave just about everything I know a shot this morning. I punded the shit out of this with a 5lb mini sledge, and just about everything else, including my fists, when I got angry enough. I can not get this sucker to move, even 1 mm. They back, threaded part, of the the bolt is just kind of mushrooms out, and will no doubt eventually receed back to the frame. I am fresh out of ideas, and again, any help would be greatly appreciated. This bike was neglected by it's previous owner, and the greases fittings were rather dry, I'm guessing that's what caused this. I included a pic below, the threaded portion is circled in green, and the head in blue. Thanks again!

damn, figured this was not good from the start, bad news is, the other side ain't any easier to get out. Whoever had this bike before me installed the bolts backward, so the threads are pointed back by the engine, extremely hard to get at. There was also almost no grease when I undid the grease fitting, so I'm guess that doesn't help either. I pulled the exhaust completely off, and I'll probably remove the fenders today, I'll give it a little bit of PB blaster and a 5lb mini sledge. Just wanted to make sure that it wasn't something easier, and I hope the bottoms arent as bad. Thanks!

sorry, guess I should have been a bit more specific, it is the spot on the upper a/control arm where it mounts to the farme. I'll be damned if I can figure out how this bolt comes out, it has me super pissed, and I know it must be something simple.

OK, really newb question here, and I definately know there is something extremely obvious I must be missing, but I have searched here, and I also read the Clymer shop manual for the Banshee, but I can NOT remove the pivot bolt in the upper control arm on my banshee. I removed the nut, and punded the hell out of it. It does not come out. The sop manual gives no specific instructions. I am trying to paint the A ARMs up front, as they are a little rusted from 4 years use. Thanks for the advice, Jason