TWILES

This has me thrown. The left head pipe almost has an extra "ping". The other way to put it would be that it sounds like the pipe is cracked and I'm hearing that? I have no idea. Jetting perfect and both sides are running the same. Pro Circuit pipes. Need ideas.

I think you were right with the floats being off. I haven't really been into the carbs since I put it all back together. Seems fine now. Thanks

Both plugs look exactly the same but in the pilot circuit, the left doesn't load up as bad as the right. Runs the same past that. On decel with the throttle closed, the left side pings(fires) a lot more than the right. Everything leads me to the pilot circuit being lean on the left but it idles great and loads up equally at idle. Any ideas?

I've been debating over maier and the Laker customs plastic for my total rebuild. I'm down to that, shock springs, tires and back wheels - more or less. Does the Lake Customs plastic hold up good? Do the back fenders droop after a little while? I like the one piece front and don't care if I have front fenders. The Maier race front looks really cheap and doesn't come with the places for the tank cover to clip in from what I can see on their website and the full fenders are a lot more expensive. I'm leaning towards the Laker Customs set. What do you guys think about them?

Not yet. Planning on getting the kit that cascade sells. I guess it's the trinity kit? Been out of town. Haven't looked at phone or anything else.... Mini vacation!

I'm going with a single carb on my banshee and need to sell what I have. They are the stock carbs off a 2001 model. I rebuilt them using a moose kit and installed the motion pro tors removal kit. 27.5/25 - pilot jets(don't remember), stock needles, 290 main jets. Uni pod single stage foam filters w/outerwears. I also bought the free flow vent hose kit for it and they are black. I haven't ridden it but maybe 2 hours since I did all this and my thumb can't take it anymore. I'll let the boost bottle and stock manifolds go too. I won't be needing them. I'd like to get $250 including shipping. I'll send the bit and tap for the tors removal kit too. The filters, tors kit, and rebuild kit cost almost that much. I'll email pics upon request. Travis Wiles 42025

Again, I don't understand wiring very well. I took a picture of a "drag" harness that was on eBay a while back to compare what colors I could see to what I have. Low and behold, the two wires coming out labeled kill switch are black/white and black. Thanks again. Too cold in the garage to un tape the whole thing and start over. I'll get it tomorrow. I'm grateful

I'll do that. If I can use this switch i'd rather. I don't mind buying the ones that flip back and forth but off would be on.. Thanks!

Thanks. That's what I figured. My friend wired up my pro design tether kill switch and he spliced one wire into a coil wire and grounded the other on my old banshee. Would that work? I don't want to do that but I'm curious.

I should've elaborated more. Every unneeded wire for it to run is gone. I read the electrical post and I don't have those wire. I do still have the lighting wires and voltage reg but coming from the cdi are the key wires and coil only. Is there a way to use the key wires?

I bought a yz kill button thinking I could figure it out. I'm lost. Splicing both wires into the key wires didn't work. I thought it kept the circuit connected but it keeps it broken. I tried splicing one button wire into the key wires with an in line splicer and grounding the other and that didn't work either. I'm not good with electricity at all. Need help.

You guys sure keep a dead story going. Do any of you work for a KY state department of any kind? If not, you missed your calling. I bought +3+1 full flights, like new yfz shocks from a dude in Alabama, new tusk tie rod end, and I can't remember the place that makes the brake lines but I got the 2 line instead of the split lines. $700 for all of it. I'm sure it's all shit though.

I bought a m6x1.00 kit to fix the reed bolt threads on one of my cylinders. You can get them off of eBay or through timesert. Same price either way. The kit was around $65. You get 5 inserts, the drill, countersink, tap, installation tool, and it all comes in a nice case. If you haven't looked at them, they are a lot better than other options IMO. I'll get a pic up sometime showing the finished cylinder and the kit. I had drilled and tapped 2 holes before I used this kit and had no problems. The previous holes were the idle screws on the stock carbs and finished them just before I started on the reed bolt holes. You'll need a drill, tap wrench, and cutting oil. It's easy.

If it doesn't turn out that great, I'll buy banshee a arms. I'm trying to end up with a good banshee. Not something to race. My wife will be on it a lot more than me and she won't go all that fast but stock is too narrow and the stock front shocks I have are OK at best. The full flights that use yfz shocks are another idea I had. I like stock yamaha shocks but they don't last forever and being able to rebuild them means a lot to me. I'm trying to think about down the road with this one. I've looked for used a arms and I find beat up rust ones and the ball joints look terrible. I'll spend as much buying them and fixing them as I would have in a set of laegers.

I don't have a lot of money to spend. I sold my old house and I'm doing this with the new houses remodel money. Lobo II with the Elka rear link, stage 5 shocks and a -1 swingarm and I'd be good. That's not an option.