shanYE west

keep in mind that the sleds operate off a cvt. This keeps the motor running at a very narrow RPM range thus not allowing for over rev or heavy loads put on the crank. Last I checked.. I dont remember seeing race cars make it 200k miles. Wonder why NASCAR's rebuild their motors after every race.. Any time you modify the motor.. it decreases its life. If you want the most reliable banshee.. keep it stock. 80hp is almost triple the power the motor was intended for. Its going to fail.. its just a matter of when. When you modify the motor.. your increasing the probability for a failure.. thats just a fact.

lol i'm just giving chris some shit.. I can't make it this weekend.. going out for fathers day and my birthday.

I finally figured it out.. Chris is holding my chassis hostage to knock out the competition!!!

a 28 pwk is a far better carb over the stockers. and you can get them for way less then 300.00 a set. most sets go for about 150-200 on ebay. If your going to have your carbs bored.. I wouldn't go over 27.5mm

I'll vouch for this motor.. No corners cut here!

crap.. all the good stuff comes around when i'm broke.... these would have worked bad ass on my 350

joshz is selling one.. send him a PM

I would go with a cool head.. and use some NOSS or chariot shelf domes. (these shelf domes are better designed) Then when you get your porting done.. your builder would tell you if its best to get a new set or not. Thats the good thing about cool heads.. you only have to change the domes when you change your setup.

yah.. WTF was i thinking...

JD, Did you do any jetting changes from the CPI to the Sniper?

you'll see him on the beach standing on the front of his banshee with his arms out! lol

I'm not going to turn this guys thread into a novel as none of this pertains to his questions and is way off topic. So i'll make it short.. Better torque curve.

why you showing up on a sunday and monday?? lol Keep in mind this is for July. lol

i'll be there the 12th - 22nd

whats all over the drive gear?? So your saying the failure happened and detonation was present? hmm....

Why?? because they were the better pipe for my setup.... What makes you think that the small bores are the better pipe?? because someone said they were? Or.. its "supposed" to be better? People really need to stop thinking that "this" pipe is the best for "that" motor. Will every 421 like the BB pipes?.... probably not.

get 6" filters with the angle

go with a bigger tire.. try a 22" rather then 20". youll get a larger footprint and that means more traction.

no way i xould spend that kind of money on a stock stroke or 4 mil crank..

i use bb on a 421 cub..

When I go to the dunes.. The last thing I want to do is turn wrenches. If a bike is seriously out of tune and running like garbage.. I'll spend a lil time and try to get it back close but I wont waste the day at it.. But if a bike is running ok. I usually wont touch it and just ride. I wont make 3 passes come back and tune to squeeze a extra bike or 2 out of it. I'd rather spend that time bullshitting with my friends and hanging out. I can't speak for everyone here.. but I think thats how most of our crew is.. racing is just a bonus. We dont care who is fast or who isn't.. We talk banshee's.. talk about setups and what we're gonna try. We'll go home.. make some changes and hope we're faster next time out. I have also noticed that there is a difference between Dune racers and Track racers. By track I mean lights/timers. Track racers are far more serious and competitive. When the track racers go to the dunes.. they bring that nature with them. For the LS ride.. I made a bunch of changes and headed to LS with no tuning. Got there.. made 3 passes. Burnt one strap off and collapsed the other. Put some fresh plugs in and limped it back to camp. it was lean. I had it jetted in perfect before my changes. I had .113 mains so i drilled some new jets to 123 and it ran good (15min fix). Spraying fuel EVERYWHERE. Obviously it was past rich. But.. it was running good enough for me to have fun. Never touched it again for the trip. IMO riding/racing is just something to do while I socialize. Maybe thats why we dont have all the big builds over here that there is out west.. we dont need to have a 15k motor to have fun and visit with friends.

1500.. that would scare me....

take a small flat screw driver.. and VERY QUICKLY tap the core.. by quickly i mean as fast as you can do it.. VERY quick, your looking to release as little air as possible. You can do that until the shock is where you want it. only do one tap at a time.

depending on the valving and length swing arm.. the rear w/ link should be around 650-700 +/- fronts are normally around 350ish with stock arms. No link rears will typically use more charge... I've never used a no link rear.. but from what i've seen they're anywhere from 800-1200 rider weight, arm length and valving play a part in this.... its not going to be the same for everyone since setups and preference is different.