shanYE west

That fog in the first picture is crazy! I was there last July when the tornadoes went through. We were out of power at Jellystone for almost 4 days. The town looked like a disaster area trees were down everywhere and it blew over Yogi at the entrance. I guess my buddy was on test hill and watched them come in off the lakes and go through the city. He said he's got pictures of them. I'll have to ask him if I can get them from him and post the pics.

what bearings are going bad? I must have missed your last post.

Anyone?? I've sent a few email's to some builders but none ever get back with me.. (kinda what I was expecting)

As long as you have a turbine core silencer she'll get in no problems

The rear hubs ride on splines and are tighted by the castle nut on the hub. If the nut is tight and you still have play you should pull the hub off and check the axle splines and hub for wear/damage.

You need the spark arrestors because there is a fluke chance that a spark might ingnite a piece of drift wood in the middle of the sand dunes and create a forest fire!! When ever I talk to some of the shops out in Cali and thell them we need spark arrestors in out dunes they start laughing.

Congratulations!! I'll have a cigar for ya when we meet up somtime this summer in Silver Lake!

yup, the nut was ground and welded on the left carb.

Sorry guys, If I read the post a bit better I would have realized that your not having problems with the boots.. I didn't use a spacer on my set-up so I didn't have a big problem with the box being to close to the carbs. I think if you can cut some off from the front of the box it would be easier then cutting and welding the frame.

Hey Dan, 104 is the stock length. At least thats whats RMATV's book says.

I didn't think anyone said a +4 is exactly 120 links? I said 120 links is for a +4 arm. It can be less depending on your sprocket combinations. Most people buy a few extra links also.

I ran the stock airbox with my 35pwks. You just have to cut the ends off from the boots that connect the box to the carbs. Then stretch them over the bells and tighten them down. Also if you didn't want to cut the boots, I noticed Jim @ Passion sells the bigger boots for them.

Well sounds like first thing is to supply the motor more fuel. Then I would start with jetting. Do you know what your mains and tubes were drilled out to?

It wouldn't affect timing but you do need new clutch cushions.

I dont run any reed spacers with my bowls and they clear the clutch arm fine. Might be running the bowls dry. I would say get a pump or at least some billet bowls. But I'm not real familiar with stock cylinders and alky either and how much fuel they'll use. Someone else will probably chime in.

Time to buy a rebuild kit. All-balls and pivot works make kits. They'll come with new bearnings, seals, dust caps, washers, and a sleeve.

I break mine in very similar to this also.

It is prefered... but not required. :biggrin: I'll have my 4-stroke out there with me too...

I dont know if they would check a hush kit for a spark arrestor.. they might just wave you through by looking at it.

No problem.. :beer:

It's been awhile but I think it was 108? I think 120 is for +4

are you runnig a fuel pump or billet bowls? who set up the carbs?

Well John wasn't the cheapest but definately a pleasure to deal with! just ordered 13 paddle extreme's and some new superlight front tires too. He has some great customer service! :thumbsup:

PT mids or DMC 916 would be my first choices. Never ran a Dynaport.. but I heard they are killer on the bottom.

My old work. www.stevenscycle.com they usually have just about everything in stock because they're a wholesale distributor also.