knelson

damn, I thought the 17 front I was running was tall. Can you clear a 19 without rubbing?

I have used them for marking TDC on outboard flywheels. You turn the flywheel to 30btc, screw in stop, rotate f/w clockwise then mark f/w, rotate counterclockwise till stop then mark f/w, measure with something flexable between marks find exactly the middle of string to find TDC on the flywheel then adjust pointer to that mark. The ones I have are plastic from the threads down and will mushroom if you try to put any real force on them, fyi. The one I use now is a dial indicator you thread in the plug hole....makes finding tdc a lot quicker and easier.

Allot of the time the problem comes from "fixing" it, I always try to find out what was f'ed with last on an (any) engine so I can focus my attention there after I do a visual, comp. test, and then spark check. Expecially if the carbs were just messed with...pull em off and check em out.

the coil will work fine

sounds like an air leak to me

They are just air vents, the top two cross over the top and down the opposing sides.

Doesn't matter on the wires or the plugs wires....thats one nice thing about a waste spark ignition, it fires at the up and down stroke and the coil is exactly that a coil of wire that amplifies electricity. It doesn't care which pole is + or -

They are factory red plastics and are used, but barely.

bump. 300$ shipped

like title states would like to get 300$ plus the ride. http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/2323/imag0208.jpg http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/2065/imag0209q.jpg http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/8099/imag0210y.jpg http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/7826/imag0211ig.jpg http://img858.imageshack.us/img858/2043/imag0207.jpg

advance your timing

http://www.duncanracing.com/TechCenter/KeihinCarbJetting.pdf

oops I was thinking fuel screws that meter the pilot jet yea, air screws are the oppposite way cause they meter the air that comes through a hole in the venturi of the carb

The air screw only effects idle- 1/4 throttle. typically if you have to turn it more than a turn in from 1.5 turns you go leaner on the pilot, if more than a turnout go richer on the pilot.

i Know you said it cuts out on the left side when you get on it, but what makes you think it's electrical? did you swap your plug wires and the problem went to your right side of the engine? I'm sure your working with new plugs right?

with the carb upside down, the float should be perfectly parrallel = with the carb body (where the bowl meets the carb).

thanks guys, the red/black was my problem...thought it was ground to kill fired up her up and babied it down the road (no brakes yet) seems to run good..... k&t drag ported 4mill pushing 795 pistons fed by 33mm carbs, v force reeds.....oh and a shiny boost bottle

ok, so leave the red/black, the black/white, and the green/yellow unhooked and nothing should kill the spark. This is what I'm working on. http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/4365/imag0124hq.jpg

Building a project bike and I've came to the wiring which is nothing comlicated really, but I have noticed coming out of the cdi there is a green wire with a yellow stripe...for the life of me I can't find it on the schematic. does anyone know what it's for?

32:1 here, 3 years on stock crank bearings and stock bore, never fouled a plug. 40:1 is most popular However I Hardly ever let it warm up before wot, basicly I beat that hoe like she owes me money.EVERYTIME. And most Importantly After I get gas in my 5 gal container, I get a 20oz gatorade and It makes the perfect oil measuring device.

Can't tell you how many times I've had my quad's wound out in that same spot. Sweet spot for draggin' unless it flooded out. I know that banshee/70 has more in it than that, it just needs the right driver

Easiest way is To use a 20oz water/gatoraid bottle for 5 gallons

There is a brass pin pressed in your carb,on the opposite side of the Idle screw that loosens up on some stock carbs, If you pull your carb slide out you can see this pin rides in a groove (opposite side of tapered). Most likely the pin has backed out of the groove allowing the slide to pivot around and lay ontop of the idle screw once they are brought off idle (needs to be pushed back in and set)

I use a vaccummate (marine rechargable) http://www.vacuummate.com/ , I tune allot of 4 and six carb engine's and have found this tool very, very valuable. On my banshee's, ones a trail rider with a stock air box (K&N), other is a 4 mil with pod filters, all I do is pull the boost bottle and plug leads into the holoes. This allows you to tune the carbs quickly, accurately, and you leave the filters on the carbs. I can sync a set of banshee carbs in less than 5 mins with this tool, you would be hard pressed to tune a pair of carb's by ear and sight, no matter how much experience you have, you can get close, but I can set them perfectly.

Without a doubt easier to use,and more effective at determining even the slightest waveforms of knock. I've used them on water brake dynamometers, but for the price of the whole set-up you could build alllllot of banshee motors and still be ahead!