spurdy

Did you get the free impeller with it?

Already answered that.

Boring when it isn't needed just wastes the life of the motor. Asking the same question different ways does not change anyones opinion. Just because your in a hurry to get your engine running doesn't make it a good decision to bore when it is not needed. That is just a personel choice you have to make. Over boring for more cc to equal more power is silly. You would never be able to tell the difference between 64mm stock pistons and 65mm (0.40" over) pistons anyway. To determine if it needs bored you need to measure the current diameter of the bore in several spots. It is detailed in a Clymer's manuel. You could probably hone it out to 1.25mm over but it might take a year or 2 if it is at 64mm. Measure and find out what you have. Then make your decision. "Measure first, order second". Taking shortcuts will only cost you more money, headaches, frustration, and riding time! SP

Put the kicker on the shaft with the cover off, rotate it down slowly and watch what happens. Apply pressure on the kicker shaft toward the case so the assembly doesn't come out of the recess. You should be able to see how it works and what is wrong.

I agree with ^^^^^. Sounds like a hole in the piston. As far as the bore......don't bore any more then needed to clean up the cylinders. Hone only if you can get by with it. But, with an '87 that has never been bored I would suspect the cylinders walls will need some dressing depending on how much it has been used. Wiesco sells stock pistons in 0.010" increments I believe. Starting at 0.010" over stock which is 64mm. So the first oversize is 64.25mm. Keep your bore as small as possible as this is the life of your engine. Punching the jugs out to increase cc is silly. SP :thumbsup:

I had Kevin do my last port job. 4 mil long rod with 795s. Great guy to deal with and awesome turn around. Can't beat his prices! Just now getting it dialed in. A few things to work through but I think Kevin does great work. Sounds great. Going to the dyno next week to fine tune. No complaints yet! SP

What kind of reeds are you running? Mine did the same thing when the V Force reed assembly popped out of the housing in the frame around the assembly. It was caused by the reed spacer being located on the wrong side. It didn't "sandwich" the frame for the reed assembly together because the frame for the reed valve was the same size and the reed valve spacer. If the reed valves don't close when the engine cycles the air fuel doesn't flow correctly and will pass back through the reed valve into the carb. I chased my ass around for a day and a half before I figured it out. It just wouldn't fire on one side. If I ran the RPMs up on it, it would fire about 30% but at idle the one side was just dead. I suppose a missing, broken, or cracked petal on a stock reed valve could do the same thing. Other then that I think V Force 2s are the only ones in 2 pieces. Good Luck SP

0.65 over?? Maybe he is not using the water jackets! LMFAO!!

I would guess it is the pick up or the CDI. The pick up sends a trigger to the CDI. The CDI then sends a low voltage high current signal to the coil which steps up the voltage to spark plugs. Correct me if I am wrong but I think this is accurate. If the pick up shorted out it could be bad and at worst could have shorted the input to the CDI. Coil should be fine. Best o luck!

Doesn't matter. Both cylinders fire twice per crank revolution. Once at TDC for ignition and once at BDC because it makes for a simple ignition system and no timing is required between the crank position and the ignition of one cylinder or the other. :thumbsup:

I could see an air leak causing that side to run lean however, I can't understand how an air leak would cause high compression. Besides, I did a leak down test and didn't leak a needle width in over six minutes. I did this 3 times! I am going to switch domes and see if the problem follows the dome to the other cylinder. If not, I am going to pull the jugs back off and check them. I think the lean condition maybe a carb problem because I can't think of any single cause to result in both symptoms. :sad:

Yes. I have this gauge installed. Don't have the engine righte right yet but the gauge is pretty sweet. No way to calibrate it though and I found it to be about 5 degrees off when I checked it against my calibrated Fluke attachment. Happy with it otherwise. Looks pretty nice and easy to read also. :beer:

I know the compression test is to be done at WOT. Why is this necessary? Is it so that the maximum amount of air is available for compression? If so, I should be able to do a compression test with the carbs off the engine. This would be a great deal easier to test because I have to remove the gas tank and pull the slides out of the carbs to remove everything to remove the head. Especially if I am going to remove the jugs. If I had a ring problem, wouldn't this make lower compression instead of higher compression? With a 19cc dome cut for a 4 mil crank i should be around 170-175 psi according the the builder. Indicating that the 190-195 psi cylinder is the one giving me a problem. Thanks. Shannon

OK. Here is what I've found out. I purchased a new compression tester. The right side is consistently 170-175 psi. The left side is consistently 190-195 psi. I removed the head to check for anything in the cylinder that could effect volume such as coolant or assembly lube and found nothing. I checked the domes. Both are 19 cc with a 13 degree angle and a recess of 0.097" (4 mil cut domes). The squish is 0.042" - 0.043". The motor has only been run about 2 -3 minutes running time before I found the high compression. So, in discussing this with the builder we decided to run the engine to operating temperature and recheck. I ran the engine for about 15 minutes and reached an operating temperature of about 150 F on the water return line. The surface temperature of the exhaust reached about 100-110 F with the right side trailing by about 10-15 degrees. I shut the engine off to check compression. I found the same compression results. I also found the right plug looking pretty good ( a little darker than chocolate brown) and the left side plug to be an ashen white. Could I have a plugged jet on the left side carb effecting the compression results? I have a couple of pictures. The one one the left is from the right side and the one on the right is from the left side. Sorry they are backwards! Thanks for any ideas. Shannon

RU 1720 is the K & N filter I use. It has a 20 degree angle off center and has a 2 1/4" flange opening. It is 6" long and 3 1/5" filter diameter. The flange length is 1". It gives good clearance for the exhaust. :beer:

165-175 was the range Kevin and I were shooting for when we discussed building my motor. Now we need to figure out how we are going to get there. I would like to understand better how you decide what dome to start with to obtain the desired result. Or is it just a shot in the dark based on experience.

I didn't think a leaky crankcase would effect compression. I am leaning towards a shitty compression tester. I picked this one up last minute last summer. Needed one on the fly and this was the best I could come up with. Tried removing the end from the tester (testing the short threaded end) and now my readings are all over the board. When using cut domes....how do you formulate what dome do you start with to get a comparable compression result after cutting the dome for a 4 mil stroke? What do you guys think I should have for compression with a 4 mil. long rod, 795 pistons, 19cc domes cut for the 4 mil., at 900 ft elevation (no spacer plate)? I will check the squish tomorrow. Wife is after me to help with xmas stuff tonight, LOL! Priorities! Locogato: What are you running? You"re just up the road from me......

About 900 ft. And now that you mention it I did have a leak which is what lead to the rebuild with the 4 mil crank. Leaking between the case halves in the front under the jugs. I got the domes from Kevin Herr (he also did the port work ). He has suggested going with some 21 + 2 domes. So, if I had a leak in the crank case, would that still lead to a false reading in the compression chamber? Maybe my compression tester isn't the greatest. It was the only one I could find when I needed it and both tests have been done with the same tester. VP red is 105 octane.

I've got CPIs and I like them pretty well. Never ran Shearer's so I can't compare to them. I have ran Toomey's and Trinity's and must say that the CPIs are far superior! No more riding in shorts though! I've got a scar on my leg from a third degree burn from dicking around on it in shorts! LOL.

I had a twist on my last banshee also. It got difficuult to turn over time and I didn't notice it until it wouldn't return well. Got some lube and the little cable clamp and lubed her up and it was amazing how easily the twist had become. Like the other guys said, check for tight radius turns and lube the cable. Should turn pretty easy. Good luck.

I was running a stock stroke ported motor with 17cc domes on VP red. I just added a new set of of 4 mil ported cylinders with custom 19cc domes. What sould I expect form a compression stand point. The compression on the stock motor with 17cc domes was about 175 psi. Now, with the 4 mil and 19cc custom domes the compression has jump to 205 psi. I spoke to the builder about this during the porting and we talked about compression and what fuel I was using. One question is how high on compression can I go with the VP red fuel. I think I understand why the dome size needs to change from the stock motor to the 4 mil. The 19cc dome is what is started with and when the 2mm is machine for clearance the total compressed volume changes effectly changing the 19cc dome to something smaller. Is this correct? Should I get new domes. I have posed the same question to the builder and am also waiting on his response. Thanks for the help.

Figured it out! :biggrin:

Sorry, didn't mean to sound impatient but I had seen several views with no comments. The Clymer calls out different Secondary Reduction Ratios on '87-'89 then on '90 and above which is the ratio between the front and rear sprockets if I am correct. But the gear ratio for all 6 gears indicates the same for all years. Just trying to figure out what I have in the 2 sets of transmission gears I have and why they are not the same. Any help or ideas would be appriciated.

Come on guys. Somebody must know the gearing ratio differences between the years. I am sure one ratio is preferred over the other.

I am in the middle of a couple of rebuilds. One is stock stroke and one is 4 mill. I have two different trannies. One is from a 1987 the other is from a 1995. I know the 6th gear is different. is there a better combo to run with the 4 mil vs. the stock stroke between one or the other ? The 4 mill will be the motor i run with the stock stroke motor as the back up.