spurdy

That sucks. Now that you mention it, I think you may be correct! Oh well, could have been a good idea if it would have worked, lol! SP

If your splitting the cases, just wait till the crank is out. Lay the piston on its side and drive out the wrist pin. Waiting till the crank is out will help insure that you don't damage the rod. That way the crank can be rebuilt or used as a core or whatever. SP

Unless things have gotten REALLY hot they should just slide out. However, sometimes they can be stubborn. Are you replacing anything like pistons or the crank? If so you have some options. Last ones I had a hard time removing were in a couple of pistons I was replacing. I used a crossbar bearing puller with a bearing splitter. A threaded rod with a crossbar on one side of the piston and the bearing splitter on the other. Then I pressed the wrist pin out. If the crankshaft is out you have a lot of other options as well. Good luck. SP

I don't really want to knock anyone's port job, but I had a Trinity Stage III and I thought it was a turd. I discussed issues with them and their customer service sucked ass. This was about 3 years ago so I don't know what it is like now. Just my experience with Trinity. I wouldn't go back. Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing is doing my current stuff and I am happy so far. I really think he will pull through for me and I'll have an 80+ four mil. Still in the process so I don't know yet but his customer service is second to none! SP

I wouldn't buy porting service on ebay. I would want to talk to people who have driven the motors by the builder. Check out the builders on this site. I would say you can't go wrong if you go with someone on here. Talk to the builder and go with one that you click with. Shop around a little. You will be thankful in the long run. Most of the guys here have decent prices and do phenomenal work! Herr Jugs Racing CA F.A.S.T. Racing KS Flowtek Passion OK The list goes on and on. SP

Make sure the shaft is steel and not aluminum like the impeller. Otherwise ^^^^ the tranny fills with coolant. The seal on the shaft wears a groove in the shaft and leaks by. I have heard it happening in just a few hours of riding also. :smile:

He's right. I just sold a set to a guy in Finland for almost $300 (black and painted silver)plus almost $100 for shipping. Don't know if they know something I don't but they thought they were worth something! SP

34mm mikuni flatslides $190 shipped. In like new and clean condition.

Porting includes cleaning up the intake and opening the transfers for better flow and could include boost ports (aka worm holes, finger holes). Also, and most important, adjusting the port timings. Transfer ports and exhaust ports if I am correct. Not sure if anything is done on the intake other then cleaning up the the surfaces for better flow and atomization of the fuel and maybe widening. Much more to it then simply over bore! :thumbsup:

I will try to come this weekend also. the wife and I are planning on Snake Hunt weekend because she has never been there for that. We are looking for another weekend to bring the kids up. They both ride and have been ready to come for a couple of years. This is the first year we think they are ready. We usually stay at the north camp. How does everyone know who the HQ members are? SP

I have a stock head if you are still looking for one. I can mill any amount off of it you want. Let me know if your interested. SP

If anyone has a fifth gear I am willing to purchase or trade for it. I have 2 complete trans and both have bad fifth gears. PM if you have this gear to sell or trade. Thanks. SP

18 awg is the min. calculated on a 7' run not 12 inches. 16 awg to be safe or if you plan to run wire around the bike a time or two, 14 is a waste and harder to deal with, especially if it is THHN wire (MTW is easiest). As far as what the stator can handle, sorry know help here.....no real world experience with different stators. Just no the numbers. Best of luck! SP

Jackson plating Kansas City MO

I=P/E I (16.6amps) = P (200 watts) / E (12volts) 18 awg would be fine SP

Had mine done earlier this week. $50 for the dyno run + $50 for the tune + $10 for jets. I thought that was really reasonable. Was expecting around $250-$300 for a total. I am new to the dyno tune as well so I didn't know what to expect for price. SP

I used the acorns nuts that came with the Head. Yes you have to drain the coolant. I didn't like the head because it has no orings on the studs to keep it from leaking and I don't like smearing sealant on everything. I went back to a pro design head. Plan to modify the modquad head to use an oring between the washer and the head to seal the stud. Good luck!

I want the compression numbers down as well. I have taken the jugs off and pulled the pistons. Sending Jugs, domes, piston, and plugs back to you in the AM for you to evaluate. If you say it should perform better then I believe you. Its your motor, your the boss. Again, thanks for all the help and your customer service is second to none! SP

We have a room at the hotel and our buddies should have a campsite on the northend. We reserved rooms at the new hotel. We are going down on Wednesday evening.

I did another pressure test and it held 6 PSI for over 15 minutes. The cases and intake are tight. Took it to the dyno yesterday and got the jetting dialed it. Everything ran well. The numbers came out at 55hp / 34 ft lbs tq. I don't know how much dyno numbers vary and this is the only motor I have ever had checked so I must say that the numbers don't disappoint me. I am still showing a consistent 190 psi with 19cc + 2 domes. I am going to run for a little this weekend. Maybe just put around for an hour or so and then recheck the compression. If we are still up there we should probably changed to a larger dome. I think we agree that we don't want it at 190 psi and I would really like to see it around 165-170 psi range. Props to Kevin and all his help! And thanks to the HQ for bringing it all together! :beer: SP

I wouldn't use it if the shaft isn't stainless. The seal will wear a groove in the shaft and leak coolant into the tranny. I thought that might be the case with it being free. Nothing good is ever free! Just my 2 cents. SP

Last weekend in March.

Was the shaft stainless? or aluminium?

Who is going to LS for Snake Hunt weekend?

I think everything is tapered except the screws for the half moon bearing keeper. Sounds like your lucky enough it didn't bounce around and tear anything up. I broke shift shaft screw and it reeked havoc in my clutch case!