spurdy

Ah, I didn't pay attention to any of the numbers aside from the diameter. But he could use stock pin height pistons wit a spacer plate and you would be able to tell, right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We never did discern what the original leak was from. Lol! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How do you know the pin height? I didn't see a pic of the piston outside of the cyl. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Of it were me, is check them, that way I could just tell the builder what I wanted. Talk to some of the site sponsors. Go with someone you fell comfortable with. Bill at driveline is great, cam at redline is awesome, there are many good guys on here that won't screw you over. In fact, most of them wouldn't be here if they didn't treat people right. But a personal connection is always a plus. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Measure TDC of the piston to BDC of the piston. Stock stroke is 54mm. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

We can't answer your overbore question because we don't know if it needs it. But you can only overbore so far so don't do it to gain displacement. The wall thickness is the life of your cylinder. If it needs to be done it needs to be done. Can't say no to that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He did say that, but he posted pics and it looks like there has been some work done to them already. Hard to tell what, we don't even know if it is still stoke stroke for sure. Looks like it from what I can tell by the domes, but not 100%. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree with rubberneck on the bottom end stuff. Once you have it apart that far, no reason not to go all the way. Then, when your done, you know what you've got. As far as cylinders, I wouldn't be afraid of using those if you liked the way they perform. I have a dune motor by HJR and it runs like a top for the way it is built. Once it got out to 65.5mm and needed another overbore (had 0.012" cyl wall to piton clearance) I sent them to millennium to have the nikasilled. The same plating they use in many other cylinder applications. They nikasilled plated it back to 65.5mm and I put it back together. Wasn't inexpensive, but neither was putting that motor together and getting it set up just the way I like it. And go buy a clymers manual. You're gonna need it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Send your quad out???? Figure what stroke crank you have and send out your cylinders ffs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I still see no signs of detonation. You need to figure out how you want to set this motor up and go from there. We can't tell you how to do that. At this point we can't tell you what octane to run because we really have no clue what your static compression is. No clue what done size you have, what stroke crank you have or any info on your port timings. You really should have a builder look into your set up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He needs larger cc domes for less octane. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am out on that one. For $40-$50 a hole I don't even mess with my own cylinders. Send them out and have them bored for the size piston I'm using. Done. Pistons today are accurate enough they don't need to be fitted. Just double checked. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have 65.50mm pistons. Stock is 64mm. So your cylinders have been bored over stock. Not good or bad just where you're at in the usable life of the cylinder sleeve. I wouldn't bore bigger than 66mm but that's me. Weisco makes larger dia pistons than 66mm. That being said, before I put a set of pistons in it is want to make sure my bore was good. You need a bore gauge for that. A tapered bore or egg shaped bore will lead to failure. Your cylinder walls need to be parallel all the way around. A clymers manual has photos of how to check this with a bore gauge. All of this information is out there and available if you will research it. I know, asking someone is much easier, but you'll learn a lot more and remember a lot more if you work for the information a little bit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At this point you're probably best off to just post pics of everything. No offense, but I can't trust anything without a photo. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Carbon fiber reeds are not stock. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Omg, you're gonna confuse this cat beyond. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So do you have CPIs or Shearer pipes? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

CPIs? Earlier you said shearers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pitted on top of the piston like something bounced around in the chamber. Severe detonation will eventually melt a hole in the piston and the exhaust side of the piston can melt as well. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here we s what mild detonation will look like. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Honestly though, looking at your pistons, I really don't see signs of deto. At least not sever damaging signs. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What he said ^^^^ Wait, I already said that. Lol! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can't kick it over too many times. Holding the throttle wide open will help reach max static compression faster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

180 static compression will require nothing less than 110 octane. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Left side is too high if it really is 180. That is going to cause detonation on regular 87 octane fuel. Hell, it will even deto on 91 octane. Right side at 30psi will never fire. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk