spurdy

Don't forget rim size! A narrow rim with a wide tire will be a lot taller at higher speeds!

64.25 mm is 0.010" over stock bore. 0.25 mm = 0.010" 1.00 mm = 0.040" 25.4 mm = 1.00" 0.040" x 25.4 mm = 1.01" I am not trying to be a dick or anything, but I deal with this conversion daily! SP

I second that!

I bought this one on ebay. I checked ebay and there are none on there but you can buy direct from CRJ. Works like the one above but has a digital readout clamped to handle bar. Checked accuracy and it was off about 3 degrees buy my calibrated Fluke Temp Monitor. Works very well! http://www.crjperformance.com/tega.html Shannon

Kevin claims his dune port (with 4mil crank) puts out between 75 and 80 hp. Don't know about Jeff's. Should have mine dynoed before long.

Kevin Herr did mine as well. Still in the process of tuning but I think it will run well. He did a 4mil dune port and I think the porting was $300 or $350. I bought the crank, pistons, domes and everything from him as a "one stop shop" and everything to put together the 4 mil was $1300 and change. He had less expensive options as well. He is a super great guy to work with and turn around time was AWESOME! But, like was said earlier, do a search. There are lots of builders on here. Call around and get a feel for a few and go with one you feel comfortable with. Good luck!

What's your plan? Oh please, do share! I was thinking that once Kiel squares up with him (hoping that happens) that everyone on here floods his inbox with questions on pricing delivery and places false orders with him to make a mound of work for him not knowing who is legit and who is not. He can't disregard everyone or his business suffers more then it does now. However, the downside to that is we may screw more innocent people out of getting their stuff on time. Surely if we put our minds together we can come up with some way to cause this guy grief. SP

You can probably get the nuts from Trinity. The female thread end on the nut actually goes down inside the top piece of the head and the nut has a flange on it about 1/2 way up the nut with a hex acorn on top. The stock studs don't come past the top surface of the head (or not much if they do). But you will need the nuts for that head to use it. SP

If your motor is stock you shouldn't need to run any higher octane fuel. Only if you change your compression. Adjusting the timing will not effect your compression. Or are you asking for future modifications? SP

I've not had much experience with the brake systems on quads but have done several autos and I would think it is much the same. Remove the cover from the ressy on the handle bars, crack the bleeder on the caliper you have been messing with (maybe both if you think air got in the line on the other one as well). Make sure the ressy stays full while you "pump the brakes" until no air comes out of the bleeder. Refill the ressy to full and replace the cap. In my experience this is how you bleed the brakes on a vehicle. There has been talk about an inexpensive vacuum system (mityvac) from your local parts store and a procedure of connecting a hose from the bleeder to a bowl of brake fluid. I have never used either of these methods but if the first method doesn't work (which is obviously the least expensive and simplest), by all means try, try, try again! Best o luck, chief. SP

When you pull the old seal out there should be 3 numbers on it. Outside diameter (OD), Inside diameter (ID) and width. If you cant read the numbers on it you can measure the ID of the case and the OD of the shift shaft and the seal is probably 6mm or 7mm wide. I have one at home on the self but am not there so I can't tell you for sure but I think it is something like 20 or 22 OD and 12 ID and, like I said, 6 or 7 wide. You can get it from any bearing house like Precision Bearing or distribution center like IBT. SP

What are you talking about? Old yeller looks good....for real! Except for the rims, the yellow was awesome! SP

I have run resistor plugs and iridium plugs and really couldn't tell the difference between those. Don't really see why the resistor plug would effect a banshee in a negative fashion. I thought the resistor plugs where to eliminate interference on radios in automobiles. SP

There is another thread on here where a guy took off 0.020" and still had 0.035" squish clearance. Most guys run around 0.045" squish. Your call from here on out. If the squish is too tight, the piston can hit the chamber of the head. SP

How much are you having taken off the head? 0.35mm or 35 thousandths (0.035")? There is a big gifference. 0.35mm is only about 14 thousandths (0.014"). 0.035" on the other hand is about 0.9 mm which would really make your squish tight! SP

There is one in the Clymer book. But if the frame has been painted or PC it might be hard to tell.

What's wrong with a dyno in MS paint.....everyone has a story to tell!!

I am sure you know by now that is snake hunt weekend. See you there?

We'll have a hotel in town and probably a camp site at the north campground. Yello wand white Banshee and the wife's black and red Arctic Cat 400 DVX and a few other bikes. I'll have a beer if you stop! SP

Ebay....$7.99 ea.

Have you seen the flow pattern of the head? Was wondering if it is an improvement over the PD or Noss head. Looks kick ass but haven't heard anything about quality and functionality. Let me know if you get one. Would love to get rid of the PD head. It takes the same domes if I remember right. SP

$35 vs $100 for a billet? Yeah, you might have to fix it a little, but not shabby for a cast part! Hell, I couldn't afford to chuck my stocker in the mill 3 times for the cost of the cast one! $35 all day long... :thumbsup:

A buddy of mine has a used LT 80 he wants to sell. I think he wants 5 or 6 hundred for it. White and purple. Not sure the year but it used to run like a streak of shit. Haven't riden it in awhile. I can put you in touch with hime if you like. He is outside the Kansas City area. SP

I have one in each of my motors and have always used them. They sure can collect lots of ferrous material. SP

If you think it is leaking air do a pressure test. If I thought for a minute my motor was leaking that's what I would do. An air leak on a 2 stroke is bad news and usually will result in at least a top end if not more depending on how bad and how long it was riden in a lean condition. I am sure most will agree it is easier and less expensive to pressure test and be sure then to run it lean! SP