spurdy

I think it was from 87-01 that they used the main switch to pass voltage from the stator out. After 2001 they used all the switches (when in the off position) to allow the signal to pass through the switch and go to ground pulling the signal down by shorting the signal to the frame. Not sure on the years, but yes there was a change. SP

Squish should measure around 1mm or 0.40"-0.045". I am not sure what it is on a stock motor with stock head gasket, but, by milling down 0.20" (or 0.5mm) you would reduce your original squish by that same amount. I think that at 0.020" off the head your squish will be fine as long as everything else is OK. As things warm up and the pistons come to operating temperature they are going to expand and the squish will lessen. You don't want the piston to grow to the point that it comes in contact with the head. Just check the squish with some small soft solder after you get it back together. SP

2nd that. Clean up the bore first and measure. Purchase pistons and measure them then match the cylinders to the pistons. Most guys that do the cylinder work will order the pistons and the cost is figured into the machine work. FYI 0.010" is equal to 0.25mm. Yes, 0.020" over is 64.50mm. SP

I have a stock head that I can flycut however much off you want. It is blasted and ready for paint. Just need to know how much to remove. Comes with gasket and hose connection also. $50 shipped plus your head for core. SP

Simple.....0.20 is what it should be set at. If the gap is too large, no spark will result. Ignition pick up is a solid state unit. It will either trigger or not trigger. Nothing in between. Either a go, or no go. I don't think anyone ever said "closer is better".

Kevin is a top notch guy and knows his shit. You wont be disappointed with his port work on a stock cylinder, not to mention his customer service as well as support after the sale. Can't say enough good stuff about the guy. Still tuning the 4 mil he ported for me and working toward 75-80 hp. Can't go wrong with HJR! SP

Impacts are absolutely the way to go. It takes much less torque to remove a bolt with an impact due to the "smack and release" action that an impact delivers. And to support the previous statement....flywheels can be a bitch! Just don't get in a hurry or be too mean with them or you will end up needing a new one! SP

Come on man, nobody has anger management issues. It's just a flywheel. The puller is piss simple. But if you try to "short cut" it let me know cause I've got an extra flywheel I'll sell you after you f*** yours up! Even if you pull it gently with a puller and tap it with a hammer, which will sometimes break it loose, will make it out of round or bend the end of the crankshaft (depending on where you use the hammer!). A puller is absolutely the only way to go. You asked for help and now you have it, so don't be a smartass! Good luck. SP

0.20 is what it should be set at. If the gap is too large, no spark will result. Ignition pick up is a solid state unit. It will either trigger or not trigger. Nothing in between. Either a go, or no go. Is it a weak spark on both plug wires? If so, could be the coil. If not, could be the wire, or boot, or connection between them. SP

This will give you an idea of what your speed should be. http://home.earthlink.net/~gellett/banshee.htm

Your not going to increase your top speed by increasing your compression. Speed is increased through gearing. Engine performance modifications increases horsepower and torque which allows you to pull taller gears thus increasing your top speed.

I dealt with Trinity on a build a few years back and their work is mediocre and their customer service sucks. I just got my 4 mil stock cylinder motor back from Kevin and it runs extremely well. Not to mention, his customer service is second to none! He stands behind his work 100%. He is more than fair, has a great turn around time, and does excellent work. I don't think you could go wrong at HJR! SP

Boost bottles make nice pencil holders if you cut one end off! Better money is spent on a cast timing plate. I think they run about $35 on ebay. SP

Get the dimensions and go to any local bearing house (Precision Industries, IBT, Applied Industrial) and they can hook you up with any bushing, any material, or even a needle bearing. Usually at the best price as well. SP

0.60" over sounds good if your cylinders are that close to 65.5mm. But an engine builder would be able to tell you for sure. The reason I am responding to your post is because I thought that Trinity's Stage IV was a drag port. If this is so then you might be more suited for a set of dual exhaust pipes instead of your 2 into set up. Or maybe even a this aggressively ported cylinders. Just some food for thought if you have it tore down already. SP

Damn sredish! Haven't seen you post in forever! Where do you camp at LS? SP

Another vote for Kevin. SP

I run it as well and have notcied a drop in temp. SP

Good call. Like Dave said, I have also replace everything with a phillips head to stainless steel socket head cap bolt.

When you take the stock ones off, measure the bushings and and replace them with a needle bearing from a local bearing supply house. I have had good luck with them (if they are kept lubricated) and would never go back to bushings. Just my 2 cents. Sorry, can't help you with the length, I got rid of all my stock front end parts. SP

That sucks! If the head is gone your probably going to have to drill it and use some type of screw extractor. If it has some sort of head to grab onto you still may be able to turn it out. Snap On sells left handed drill bits but I doubt that will do you any good if the driver didn't turn it. Use some heat before turning it but not before drilling it. Drilling is going to be a bitch, and you have to be careful to stay in the screw and not allow it to walk into the aluminum. Good Luck! SP

I've got needle bearings on both ends of the shift drum and both ends of the shift shaft. Also every other dog removed from the gears in the transmission. I can shift up through all six and back down through all six without the transmission under "constant mesh". It really shifts like butter and never had an issue. I think the bearing numbers are HK1210 and HK2212 but don't remember for sure.

If your already set up with the carb you just need to swap the thumb throttle to a twist throttle tube which comes with the appropriate housing just like a motorcycle. The only difference between what you have and a dual carb set up with a twist is the cable. Dual carb = dual cable // single carb = single cable. Thumb throttle or twist throttle just pulls the cable. Piece of cake. SP

Mine were $80 a set.

Align the shifting claw with the shifting star? Should be equidistant from each post on the shifting star when at rest. Check the manual pinned at the top of this forum :smile: . SP