spurdy

Don't know much about big bores, but bores usually go up at 0.25mm (0.10") a bore. SP

Flywheel puller $10 on ebay. Cast timing plate on ebay. Done and solid. No being stranded because of a broken key. Just my $0.02. SP

I have the same one and it started leaking gear case oil right after installation. It requires removal of the stock shift drum cover. Just FYI. I ahve to remove mine and see what it will take to seal it. SP

Pulling the clutch cover to do this yourself isn't so difficult. Do a search for it and dive in. Nothing ventured, nothing gained! If your gonna own a banshee, you really need a clymer's and learn to do this type of stuff on your own. No disrespect intended or anything, but it will really get expensive to have someone else turn wrenches for you. The banshee motor is really simple to work on. There are plenty of guys on here that have rebuilt top and bottoms of their motors with no more help then the forums on here. Dive right in and ask questions when needed! I get down to Houston once in awhile and would be tickled pink to help out but wont be back for a couple of months and don't think you would want to wait that long. SP

Another vote for HJR Motors! Excellent work and even better customer service. SP

Float or slide?

I've seen boost ports that broke through the cylinder and were welded back up. It has been 8 or 10 years ago, and if I remember right it was a Paul Turner port job. SP

I think this is the same one I bought. 1" x 2" dispay in an aluminum frame, handlebar mount? In line thromocouple for monitoring? I know mine quit working due to vibration. I have redone the battery connections and still can't get it to "stay" working while riding the bike. I can always get it to work again, but it soon loses the connection with the battery and stops. Not happy with the item at all. SP

The 35s will use more fuel. But, also, Kevin's porting flows allot! The difference between the last stock stroke ported motor with Mikuni 34s and the 4 mil motor from Kevin running PWK 35s is about twice as much....holy shit does that thing suck down the "go go juice"! I would definately get a pingle just to be on the safe side although the stock petcock will probably be ok. But, the pingel would solve your routing problems.

If it isn't running it won't shift very well. It is a "constant mesh" tranny and the primary and counter shafts need to be spinning to run through the gears. I would drain the oil in the tranny and see what it looks like and then refill if it looks ok. Then I would do what Josh said. SP

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ I use hi temp RTV also, but I put mine together wet and use my finger around the exhaust flange/pipe mating surface to clean it up. No issue to date! SP

I've run 0.020" and 0.030" shaved and have heard of guys running 0.040" shaved. Need to check your squish which I think should run around 0.4 - 0.5 mm but I don't remember for sure. Someone will chime in, I am sure with the correct spec. Also be sure to check your compression so you know the right fuel to run with the higher compression. I think you will see more performance gains out of timing though. +4 should give you a good performance gain all around depending on your current mods. SP

B & M Synthetic Trick Shift ATF. Recommended by Kevin at HJR. No issues and it grabs well. Using with a lock up clutch also. No issues so far. SP

You can say that again! To error on the side of caution, I wouldn't run a piston that I was worried about. For me, it just isn't worth the risk when your talking about an engine that spins that fast for the cost of a piston. Second, the water isn't going to hurt anything as long as it wasn't much (as in less then .5 oz.). No water is better! Changing the oil isn't going to do shit. Your in the crankcase not the tranny. Last, slow down. You ever hear the story of the Daddy Bull and the Baby Bull on top of the hill with all the heifers down below? I always say, "If you don't have time to do it right, you damn sure don't have time to do it twice!" SP

If Kevin said that he can prot them to match Trinity's pipe then I wouldn't second guess him. He knows his shit and, while my engine from him didn't hit the numbers he said it would, I think once I am done tuning it and get it back on the dyno it will. I don't think you can go wrong if you listen to Kev. He is a great guy, professional, stands behind his work, and does a great job! Good Luck when you get her back together......and you'll likely need a swinger! SP

^^^^^ I've got a 4mm dune port from Kevin and it runs great. I stepped up from a stock stoke dune port with smaller carbs. It really made a difference. Kevin does great work. How did he tell you it would respond with those Trinity Pipes? I had Trinity pipes on one of there set ups awhile back and it ran so so. Kevins dune port with CPIs would run circles around that Trinity motor I built! Just curious what Kevin's opinion was with the Trinity pipes. If it wasn't ported before it should still run with at least a 20 - 25% power gain. SP

Should be that the black and the black w/white go together. The other 2 are not used. SP

Wiseco all day long!

True. The plastic stock or aluminum after market cover does not. However, the steel round cover with the neck on it does (under the water pump cover on the case). SP

NO! This is just masking the issue. Plus, last time I checked, starting fluid had no lubricant and dried quickly. Not a good environment for your pistons. Carbs or plugs if air filter is clean. Unless it is a weak spark and runs good once warmed up but I would definately start with the former. SP

Not sure what plug your talking about but your tranny case should be vented to prevent pressure build up. It is located at the rear top half of the case. It's a small 90 D angle fitting usually with a hose attached. Pressure is the only thing that comes to mind quickly to cause a plug or a seal to come out. There is also one behind the water pump cover. SP

I disagree as well. A little locktight is nothing more then a little insurance. Anything to insure no foreign shit in my cylinders! SP

2nd that! I know lots of people who aren't made of money and are strapped for cash that can still afford $12 for a gasket! SP

There are several different options. The long rod crank, the 4mm longer stroke with 110 rods, and the long rod 4mm stroke. Depending on what you want, each requires a different set up. Spacer plate, 795 series pistons, cut domes or rechambered stock head. Port timings have to match piston position, that's why it was suggested to get virgin cylinders if yours are already ported for a stock crank. I think the 795 series pistons are a better option today then the Blaster pistons of years back. I think you have to start with a larger bore to fit a stock Blaster piston. SP

When I have a problem like this that I can't figure out, I start swapping componants from one cylinder to the other. Such as carbs (if there not stock), plugs, plug wires, and reeds. Last ime mine did this it was an issue with the reed spacers. They would allow the reed cage to unseat from the frame (V Force 2) and allow the fuel to flow back and forth in the intake track. But it could be weak petals also. Check the gap on both flywheel tabs since the mechanical relationship between each tab and its cylinder can't be changed. If that is it you should see the problem switch to the other cylinder when you swap plug wires. Good Luck! SP