spurdy

http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/index.asp SP

The last post after yours explained the difference why it isn't necessarily just "compression = octane". I wasn't considering the effect of the oil mixture and timing. Perfectly logical though. It wasn't posted at the time I started my reply. SP

Just curious.....why would everyone be different? Compression determines what fuel. Several factors determine compression, but once compression is known, fuel octane can be determined. Do you worry at all with your 50/50 mix at 190 compression? I am at 195 compression running VP Red at 110 octane and was thinking of going to VP C12 because of the high compression. I really wanted to be at the 180 - 185 range for the 110, but we had to go up to a 21cc dome cut for a 4 mil just to get it down that far from 210!

I've been using the doohickey that clamps on the cable and the spray lube as listed above. How do you get the tranny fluid all the way through the cable? Just pour on a little and work the cable back and forth and repeat? SP

I think my "sig" says it all!!

I would guess that movement from your clutch actuator (top of your case) or the clutch cable is moving your wiring or harness causing the short or open circuit. SP

Does what make a difference??

Call Kevin or visit his website www.herrjugsracing.com. Great guy and ^^^ knows banshees inside and out. I run his 4mil dune port and it runs great. I had a Trinity motor and absolutely hated it. It pulled hard but it was too much of a light switch. It had no low end. Just FYI, I had there entire setup from intake to exhaust. Kevin can tell you what to run or if you need something different and wont sell you anything you don't need. His customer service is 2nd to none. Don't take my word for it, just do a search. Good luck! And don't go to Kevin just cause we say so......call a few builders and get a feel for them and go with the guy your comfortable with. SP

I would steer clear of the RS flywheels. I have heard that the pickups can be a few degrees off. That can play hell with bigger HP motors. I seen a lightened one on ebay a day or so ago for less then $50 I think. Good price cause most guys wont lighten them for less then that. I would lighten the one you have for you. PM me if your interested. SP

With that compression, you probably should be running a 100% race fuel of 110 octane (VP Red maybe?) or better (VP C12?). Have you checked your compression yet? SP

What fuel do you run and what is your altitude? SP

OK. Offer is off the table. I didn't mean for this to get into a bidding war about who could do it cheaper. I thought $40 was a fair price. I don't want to get into a pissing match with anyone on here over a few bucks. If I wanted to be a dick I could offer to do it for free if you would pay the shipping. I've offered to do flywheels if "booneman" couldn't get to them for the same price he charged but I've never undercut anybody. If that's the way this forum works then maybe I don't belong here. SP

$40 including shipping back to you. I can take of as much material as you would like. PM me if your interested. SP

I run a 4 mil from HJR. I wouldn't go anywhere else. Just like Butch said, prices, customer service, AAA+++ all the way. SP

Pistons can't be tight or they would heat up and sieze. SP

That's not true! You still have a good set of ported jugs and a 4 mil crank. Your only out a couple hundred bucks for a new top end. (Unless something else is wrong). Just trying to point out the "bright side of things". I went through a couple of sets of pistons on my 4 mil before we got it right also. Sometimes things just work like that. Anything can be fixed, it is just a matter of time and money. Good luck! SP

You can buy an offset key to advance the timing. It isn't adjustable and have broken before, typically if the flywheel isn't reinstalled correctly. Others have had good luck with them. Or you can buy an adjustable timing plate and replace your stock one (or modify your stock one to make it adjustable. Your stator and pick up mounts to the timing plate and rotates around to adjust the timing. I would suggest the latter. You can pick a timing plate up off of ebay for about $35, it is fully adjustable, and you have the piece of mind that the key wont shear and damage your crank or stator. SP

You can do it with any tool used to remove metal. A rat tail file, a die grinder with a small bit, a die grinder with a cut off wheel, or an end mill. All your doing is slotting the the through holes that mount the timing plate to the case halves. 1 mm of adjustment is 1 degree of timing. Not sure if you can get a full 4mm of adjustment from the stock plate but you should be able to get close. Clockwise rotation advances the timing. SP

Mechanical bind in the tranny. SP

If you want your flywheel lightened I can do it also. Not trying to take any business away from booneman, but if you don't get in touch with him and want it done, let me know. Same price, $50 and that includes your shipping back. SP

The answer to your last question is 0.010" is equal to 0.25mm.

A little punctuation and the use of spell check would make it alot easier to read your post. I got half way through the first one and gave up!

I've already pulled the head and jugs, the pistons would move a little bit side to side but look fine This doesn't seem right. How much play? If the tolerance is too great it would definitely effect your compression. I don't remember what the clearance should be but I think it is 0.005" or 0.010". Could someone chime in here? I just don't think that you should "see" any movement side to side with the pistons installed. Good luck! SP

Why did the kickstarter stick? It sounds like it was getting hot and the pistons started to stick in the jug from expansion. This would explain why it died when you where braking, as well as why the kicker wouldn't turn over. 30 minutes to cool down and it is likely that the expansion would have receeded and it would kick over again. The rapid heating up coupld be caused by lack of water (which you mentioned ended up in your tranny, right?) or from improper jetting or both. I would pull the carbs and reeds off and have a peek at the intake side of the pistons and look for scaring on the pistons. An once of prevention is worth a pound of cure. If there is a problem you may be able to hone it out instead of punching it out to the next size or two later if it locks up solid! Also, if it locks up solid it could ruin the crank. SP

What exactly do you mean 25% then 50/50??? I think with 160 compression you would be borderline with a 93 octane pump gas. I would probably run something around a 110 octane 50/50 with a high octane pump gas. The 50/50 is the ratio of your race gas with your pump gas. I am not sure what you mean by the 25%. Your not confusing this with your gas to oil ratio, are you? SP