spurdy

Dont knw if I had to shim that much but I had to do the same thing. My CPIs are the older style with no CPI stamp in the chamber. Dont know if that is why or not. SP

I have a 200 watt stator and adjustable timing plate. PM me if your interested. SP

Beat me to it! What was the pick up gap? SP

Why do you want to run non detergent oil? That is for vacuum pumps and equipment that has filter elements that collect the carbon deposits that the detergent elements breakdown. ATF is good for a few tenths off of a drag bikes time over gear lube. I just wouldn't mix oils. SP

Adjustable timing plate = $35 on ebay for a cast one / $100 for billet. $15 for flywheel puller. SP

HJR for all your porting needs! Again, don't bore for power. Kevin did my porting and I have tons of bottom end (4 mil crank) and Kev can tell you what to do with your clutch. Call and check around. SP

Billet plates look sweet but they are about $100 and the cast one does the same thing for $35. How many times will you have your flywheel cover removed to show off your billet timing plate? And, yes, the stock stator works fine. my 0.02 worth.

To fix it you need to find out why it is overheating and take the appropriate steps to address the issue. Could be that the jetting is off, water flow problem, could be too much timing, the list goes on and on. I am afraid that more information is needed since every bike is set up differently. Another thing that would help is to know exactly where the coolant is coming from. "what looks like the engine" is pretty vague, chief! Out of the head, base gasket, overflow, clutch side, it all points in different directions. Find out some more details and repost and I am sure somebody can help you out! SP

I don't see anything different on this set up from your current set up other then the Coolhead with 21 cc domes. The head and domes aren't going to give you a significant increase in power unless, as mentioned above, you up the compression (then you may require a higher octane fuel). Your best bet is to get a timing plate. That will really wake her up. $35 for a cast plate on ebay, and will only compliment what you currently have. You'll also need a flywheel puller as mention above, about $15. THe next thing is porting and bigger carbs. Porting is always the best bang for your buck. SP

Who ever you decide to do the porting can suggest carbs for their set up. The head has nothing to do with porting or carbs. No fuel flows through the head on a 2 stroke. Only the domes may need to be cut if you go with a long rod or stroked crank. SP

No, all Banshees have 6 gears. Did you pull the clutch cover and check the shift start and the claw? I'd check that first. If that looks good then it sounds like a problem inside the cases. Could be something with the shifting cam, or something with the 6th gear or the gear that meshes with the 6th gear. If it were me, I'd split the cases and have a look before riding it anymore. If there is a broken piece floating around in there you could likely do more damage internally. SP

I am plenty happy with my 4mil. Makes lots of good power and pulls nicely. SP

Kevin at HJR has had some good results with low end cubs. Has to do with the exhaust port roof. If your serious about the cub give him a call and discuss. I would have went that direction when I did my 4mil if it was an option then. SP

I have about the same set up also. 4mil by HJR with CPIs. 35PWKs. V Force reeds. K and Ns w/outerwears. Lockup clutch. Running about 195 psi on VP red. You should try some Skat Trak Haulers or Extremes. You think those Sand Stars hook up! I bet with Kev's port job and the right respiratory system on that bike you could damn near spin the paddles off those Sand Stars! SP

I have a modquad head I'd let go of if your interested. Anodized Black. SP

I put bearings on my shift drum and on the shift shaft. Also every other dog is removed on the gears with 6 dogs. I think I have the bearing numbers written down at home. It really makes it shift nicely. I can usually run up through all 6 gears and back down with out the tranny in motion. I don't know how much that would help in shifting while under load, but it is sure an great improvement over stock. SP

Second that! I use rubber stoppers from McMaster Carr catalog for about a buck a piece. Drill a hole in one for some poly tubing and connect a regulator with a gauge then a 3 way ball valve (open to air pressure, open to atmosphere and closed) and a quick coupling to connect to my compressor with "press lok" fittings. 6 psi and a bottle of soapy water. If your really slick, the best way is to pull a vacuum in the case instead of pressurizing it but then you have to have a vacuum gauge and a small cavuum pump and regulate your "lack of pressure". Some guys do both, I haven't done the vacuum test yet although I have all the stuff. Pressure test suits me just fine. SP

Its about time you got that beast back together! Can't wait to get my next dyno run down. I am guessing it is going 75, close to 80 hp. Last dune trip I tore the paddles off a set of 21" 9 paddle haulers! Shee really rips. Couldn't be happier (except maybe with a cub!). Glad to hear your back together and happy with Kevin's work. I told you it would be impressive! SP

I have a carb $10 plus shipping. don't know how an experienced builder could mangae such a thing but I feel your pain. PM me. Just read the rest of the post. Sorry for jumpong the gun. SP

I did this on my last bike. Looks good and inexpensive but it is unreadable when the bike is running due to vibration. I currently have a thermocouple mounted in a cooling fin tube in line between the head and the rad with a digital readout on the handle bars. Works well but trouble with the battery in the readout unit maintaining contact and constant readout. Still looking for something better. SP

as said before..... "to be honest MJ. i was led to believe my eyes were good enough. seeing is believing right? well, i got the tool and i was way off. shee even runs better. i recommend it for all banshee riders. they were designed for VW`s but perfect for the banshee. "

Over by St. Louis.

Do both ni**les raise with the flick of a thumb? I thought not! How do you detect movement synchronously then? Get the gismo! SP

No. Your used to looking at boobies. And whille boobies are great, they are much different then carbs. Your eyes are boobie calibarated, not carb calibrated! SP