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spurdy

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Everything posted by spurdy

  1. I am pretty sure the clutch basket has to come out to remove the shift shaft. SP
  2. Sunday was pretty good riding. Nice and smooth on the dunes and very few people out. It was a little windy but that died out in the afternoon. We rode until about 3 or 4pm and then headed out. Great weather for Oct! SP
  3. You know, I think your right. I think they are a 10mm stud. But, be careful with the tapered lug nuts. I am 100% positive that my C series rims take a flat lug nut. If you use a tapered nut and it should be a flat you will likely f**k up the threads on the stud when you take it off. The cone of the taper will compress at the end around the stud. Just check them out when they come in. Good luck. SP
  4. Try a 14mm socket. 9/16" isn't the right one. I have the same rims (and I hate 'em, they are way to heavy) and I've never had an issue. The stud is 8 mm x 1.25 mm. Everything on the banshee is metric including the studs on the wheel hubs. SP
  5. We usually camp in Cowboy camp at the north entrance. Anybody else camp on the North Side? SP
  6. Are you guys still planning on the weekend of the 18th and 19th? We are leaving on the 17th and will be there in the afternoon. SP
  7. I had a woodruff key rock in the flywheel and bind against the collar of the flywheel and stick in place. Ruined 2 flywheel pullers trying to get it off (with PB Blaster). Figuring the flywheel wasn't going to survive I tried a 2 ton 3 jaw puller and didn't budge it (with a 1/2 breaker over and a 6 foot cheater). Tired to push flywheel back on a little (hoping I could get a little back and forth movement) with an impact and twisted the threaded stud off the end! Next I spit the cases, removed the bolts on the timing plate, removed the pistons, took the crank, flywheel stator and all to the shop and put it in our 20 ton press. Bent 2, 3/4" straps behind the flywheel and she didn't budge. Every step of the way we had heat on it. By this point the flywheel is f**ked anyway and maybe the crank. I ended up cutting the flywheel off with a band saw and a cutoff wheel. Now I am down to the collar still on the taper of the crankshaft. I had to cut through the key way and a little tap with a 6 oz hammer and it popped off! What a pain in the ass! Fixed the crank in our lathe though. Faced off the front of the taper and drilled and tapped a whole and replaced the stud. What an odd size that was, M12 x 1.75 I think? Saved $400 for a crank but I did have to by a new flywheel. All for an air leak between the cases! Just thought I'd share that since you brought up "not being able to remove a flywheel". I can sympathize! SP
  8. If it isn't near the bearing, could it be from the crank being tig welded? According to your first post it sounds like that is the location you are describing. SP
  9. Great news. I bought mine less then a year ago. I'll give them a call and see what they say. Thanks for the update. SP
  10. The components remained interchangeable through all the years. SP
  11. Dude! Yamaha stills manufactures the Banshee. There just not sold in the USA! SP
  12. I can not keep my CRJ guage working. The battery will not maintain contact to power the LCD. Thought about soldering the battery in place but didn't want to f**k with it. Think I'll try an inline guage unless there is a reliable surface mount gauge someone had used. I keep hearing of them failing due to vibration. SP
  13. Can't say on the grinding, but all stock shifting banshees nuetral is hard to find. A shift star mod will help. I've got bearings in my shift shaft, shifting drum and the shift star mod and mine shifts like butter through all gears with the motor off. Not too bad of a constant mesh tranny! SP
  14. Sounds like it got hot and overflowed and the reservoir caught some of it. Unfortunately, having a new top end may have everything to do with why it is overheating. Sometimes , when things are worked on we just don't get them right going back together. The first rule of troubleshooting is " what did we work on last". SP
  15. If your already getting it ported, then just get it ported with 4mil port timings. Get away from using the spacer plate and run a cool head with cut domes. If your going to the trouble to stroke the crank then there is no sense in doing it "half ass"! You'll be grateful down the road, trust me. And if you don't want to trust me, ask the guys here! The spacer plate will eventually result in trouble. SP
  16. Cleaning the carbs isn't going to hurt anything. If you think it is a good idea, then just do it. The coolant issue could be a problem with pressure build up in the coolant system which most likely isn't good. But, I would say, more than likely is an issue with the bike heating up. That can be caused by a few different things. Wrong jetting, poor coolant flow, engine trouble, etc. I think a little more info is needed for a proper diagnosis. SP
  17. Under the "edit sig" section, there is no "browse" button. There is an "insert image" button, but that prompts you for a URL. I didn't think I was that "computer illiterate" but maybe I am. Maybe a little "caveman" style instruction is needed here. SP
  18. How do I upload a picture into my signiture? Thanks!
  19. I agree with Fran. You will likely be happy with work from anyone you listed. Kevin's turn around is super quick and is great to deal with and does awesome work to boot! Call each place and make your choice on who you fell comfortable with. SP
  20. I bought my wife an Arctic Cat DVX 400 and have +2+1 a arms, suspension, and a pipe on it and I was really impressed. Lots of torque and handles like a dream. Just about bought another one for myself! But I still can bump her back to the TRX 250 if I want to ride hers instead of the banshee! SP
  21. Just to reiterate what all the others have said. I am a mechanic by trade, as are many of the guys on here. If its mechanical, I can fix it. There is more to porting then that. If you want to give the guy experience at porting a banshee, that's one thing. If you want a good strong running port job take it to someone who already has the experience. Don't feel bad about going and taking them away from him. I did that exact thing when I decided to do the 4mil over the stock crank after asking some questions of the the shop that was doing the work. They just didn't have the right answers for port timings, spacer pate, which pistons and which domes. The answers just didn't make me feel comfortable with they're experience level. So, I just made up a story that I had sold those jugs as is and was going to build another motor that I had purchased off ebay. No hard feelings, just doing something different. Good luck, SP
  22. Why did you reply toi my message? My question was "what is the pickup gap"???? SP
  23. They make a claw you can hold the basket with. Don't know where you can get one though, sorry. I just hold it with my hand and use an impact gun. Worked fine for me everytime. SP
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