spurdy

Let me know if you head down to LS in May. We wouldn't make it the weekend you guys went this year. End of May/first of June is usually when we stop going until fall due to the heat! We like the lake during the sweltering months! SP

Right side/left side, still the crank case has no oil in it. Only air fuel/oil mixture. If your losing oil it must be from the tranny side of the cases (rear portion). Which would have nothing to do with the exhaust. SP

If it was losing case oil then it would either be due to a worn or damaged seal or wear or damage to the shaft the seal is sealing against in the transmission, not on the crankshaft. You can likely replace the seals without splitting the cases. If you want to replace the bearings that will require complete tear down and splitting the cases. I would only do this during a rebuild or if I thought the crank bearings were in need of replacement (in which case I would do a complete rebuild!). I am not sure what this would have to do with it smoking out the right side. If it was the right side crank seal that could cause a lean condition but I don't think that would cause it to smoke excessively. SP

What exactly is the purpose of the silencer packing? Does it effect performance or is it just to reduce dB? Anything particular to use for packing or is that just fiberglass insulation with the paper removed? SP

You can use Yamabond or whatever you have to seal your cases with. I don't use anything, it is just a pain in the ass to clean the gasket material off (if yamabond or similar is used) in the event you ned to replace petals or something. If both surfaces are clean and smooth the gasket should seal just fine. SP

No because it ran off the starting fluid. Sounds like its not getting fuel. I would also check compression as previously stated. SP

I have been running BP8ES plugs but I ran it previously with BR8ES plugs and had the same issue. Doesn't seem that the resistor in the plug makes any difference. I wanted to see if the BP plugs proved to output more HP (I heard that they did) however, I am not sure there was any difference. SP

All engine port jobs require clean up of the intake. Which is what your looking at. The difference is in the exhaust and transport windows which changes their relation ship to the piston just like the different lobes on a cam shaft. You really can't tell anything without measuring them. SP

I seen a complete motor on ebay for $400 and another for $600. There is also the one with the "coors light" beer cans (looks like anyway) for a boost bottle for $3xx but it looks pretty rough. I wouldn't run 2 diferent sized pistons. SP

I am pretty sure that is just a standard M6 x 1.0 counter sunk machine screw with a 4mm hex recess. I don't remember anything special about the shank. Is this not correct? SP

The problem with the CRJ Temp gauge wasn't vibration. It ended up being noise interference with the processor in the unit from the ignition. I have relocated the RTD farther away from the ignition (as close to the top of the radiator as possible) and the problem almost went away but not quite. The guys at CRJ are great and know there is an issue but don't have a solution yet. I am going to try to shield the cable and see if that helps. If that doesn't work I may tie in a switch to open the battery circuit since the way to reset it once it shuts down is to remove and reinstall the battery. I would do that with a switch to open and close the circuit. Or maybe I'll just get a better gauge! LOL. SP

Are you talking about the M6 counter sunk screw? If so I would guess that it isn't bottomed out, you just torqued it too much. I would try something hard with a sharp point (like a thread tap) and use it and a SMALL ball peen hammer and tap in a counter clockwise fashion. The point of the tap should dig into the shank of the bolt. Once it starts to rotate you should be home free. Or a left handed drill bit would likely work nicely in your situation. Good luck. SP

I have dual PWK 35s. They are simple to sync. You just need to get a sync tool from F.A.S.T. Racing. Its a flow meter that measures the intake flow so you can set them the same. Set them at idle, then set them at 1/8th to 1/4th throttle. Use the idle screws to set them at idle and the cable adjustment to set them at 1/8th or 1/4th throttle. Just use something to make sure you adjust both at the same throttle setting. Much easier then trying to set them by eye and much more accurate. The tool is less the $50 I think. SP

Second vote for T.M. DesignWorks. Very nicely supported by the case instead of the bolts that hold it in place like the aluminum ones I've see. SP

I don't think I would be banking on a bad o-ring. I used to run a 17cc dome and ran VP Red due to the compression. When I was running pump gas I ran a 21cc dome. I think anything less then a 21cc dome would require at least a mix considering where you ride unless your running a higher exhaust port. I think it could likely be a hole in a piston based on the information posted. SP

That is an awesome photo!

Are you serious? Air intake needs to be controled and needs fuel added. Any air intake beyond the carb isn't controled and would cause a lean condition which is always bad and leads to dumping money into your motor. SP

I heard that the NGK BP8ES makes a few more HP then the BR8ES. The P inicates a protected insulator type instead of a resistor type. Haven't seen any proof of the difference between the 2 but I have run both and have not decided on my opinion yet. SP

I've got no shift star mod. But I've got needle bearings on my shift drum and shift shaft and I can shift up and down through all 6 gears while sitting still. It shifts really well with or without the clutch while riding. Its not an override so you can't shift under full throttle but it is probably as good as you can get without the override. SP

I would say you should be happy with kev's work. Let us know what you think when you get it going. I have his 4 mil dine port with CPIs and 35 pwks and it hauls ass. SP

AMEN! SP

No kidding?!? What is wrong with a cast plate? It doesn't need to be strong or resist any force. There is no bling factor since it can't be seen. As far as I am concerned a cast one is better then a billet one simply because it is cheaper and serves the exact same purpose equally as well. SP

I am not sure about increased friction with the stock stroke length. It is more the angle that the force is applied with. When running a long rod crank the angle of force is closer to 180 degrees as opposed to the stock rod length which would be an angle closer to 90 degrees then the long rod. Obviously we are not talking about a huge angular difference, but this should give you an idea of the concept. SP

Dude! That is one hell of a run on sentence! SP

CRJ Performance has one that splices into the coolant hose. Has on electronic readout that mounts to the handle bar. I have one and it didn't work worth a shit. They claim that it is electrical noise from the ignition systems that effects the analog reading. They recommend that the RTD is mounted up near the inlet to the radiator and the cable routed as far away from the ignition as possible and this fixes it. They are replacing mine free of charge to try again. I'll post the results after our trip to LS for Thanksgiving. As long as it works I think this is the way to go. Easy to read while riding and it has a large LCD display. No good for night riding though. SP