spurdy

A billet clutch cover on ebay? Really? I search ebay all the time for parts and have never see a billet clutch cover on there. Polished cast stock covers, Chrome stock covers, but never a billet cover. Do post some pics! SP

F*$k that looks scary! Anything that goes that fast in the snow when you can't see whats underneath you can have! Besides, when its that cold out you shoudl be inside next to the fire! SP

Check around, find someone your comfortable with and you will be glad you didn't short yourself.

IMO don't just do a cheap port job. The difference between a cheap port job and a quality job is a couple hundred bucks and worth a ton more! There are several good builders on here that are reasonably priced and you wont regret for sure. Herr Jugs, FAST Racing, Passion, and the list goes on. Check around, find someone your comfortable with and you will be glad you didn't short yourself. Don't take my word for it, ask the other guys here, porting is the heart of it.

The lower your CCs the higher your compression on a given motor. The higher your compression the higher octane fuel you must run on any motor to prevent detonation. Your altitude and your porting will effect your compression. So everything kinda ties together. You really should talk to the guy you want doing the porting to determine the compression as the durations play a big part in the calculations. SP

Dude, 18cc to a 21cc is a pretty big jump. What exactly are you looking for? Sp

NO! Water is pumped through the engine to the top of the radiator. Flows through the radiator to the bottom for cooling and out of the bottom to the engine. SP

If you are talking about the cover insert for the clutch cover, there are several guys on Ebay that sell sets. I bought one a few years back and needed to replace one of the 7 pieces that came in the set. I was able to purchse just that piece for around $50. I would say check the auctions and if you can't find just the insert then find a set you like and send a message to the seller and see if you cna buy just the insert. Each piece is made by running several at a time so it usually isn't a problem. If your looking for the entire clutch cover, I am not sure where to get a billet one at. I have a polished cover I would let go for $75. PM if your interested. Good Luck. Shannon

You want to monitor the temperature of the water coming out of the engine. Not much concern for the temperature of the water that has been cooled through the radiator and being delivered to the engine. SP

Thats some funny shit right there! Ferris Bueller's Day Off comes to mind!

If you don't want to tear it apart to repair all the time then the answer is likely a duneable override. I have a 4 mil stock jug bike with a lockout clutch. I have needle bearings on my shift shaft and shift drum and every other dog removed on my gears that would normally have 6 dogs. My tranny shifts like butter even with the bike not in motion. All the way up through the gears and back down. Shifts great while riding without the clutch by just letting off the throttle but will not shift under a real heavy load like an override will. Trying to do so will be more likely to bend forks then anything else. SP

There is no dipstick in the cover for the magneto! The crankcase requires 1500ml of oil. The shaft you see that the flywheel is fixed to is the end of the "crank"shaft. A 2 stroke has no camshaft because it has no valves for intake and exhaust. SP

Like Jeff said, you can find everything on his website. I would recommend porting before the reed replacement. Porting is the biggest bang for your buck. After you have the porting done you will really benifit from the after market reed valves. You may not see much improvement with them on a stock motor. Stock reed cages aren't bad, but would definately replace the petals if you decide to stick with the stock cages. Also, if you go with a F.A.S.T. head before you port the motor, you may need to buy another set of domes after porting to get your compression where you want it. Basically what I am saying is, I would port the motor first and then add all of the supporting mods to compliment your port job. You won't be disappointed! Timing is something that will really wake up even a stock motor. I would say any timing plate is fine. This part takes no stress so a cast plate is just as good as a billet plate, IMO. You should be able to find one of these for about $35. As long as you keep your compression under 150 psi you should be able to run pump gas. SP

I used a map gas torch to heat and expand the flange area. The heat doesn't hurt the o-ring and I use high temp RTV silicon as a sealant which also acts as a lubricant for installation. I know alot of guys on here let the sealant dry prior to installation, but I haven't tried that and would think that may make installation harder. After I get the header pipe on, I wipe the excess sealant off and make sure the area between the 2 flanges (cyclinder and pipe) has a nice smooth bead of sealent. Looks good and doesn't leak. SP

The exhaust port timing can effect your compression as well. The higher the exhuast roof the lower your compression will be. What kind of port job did they have done to it? SP

Don't for get to check the sync between them also. Mine does the same thing when they are out of sync. SP

WOW!

Might be a Suz frame with a Honda motor. WTF!?! SP

Looks like a Quadracer to me. Not to up on the older Suzukis though. I thought the Quadracer had single exhaust. SP

Why? The seals are not captured by the case or retatining ring or anything. SP

T Shee is right. I wasn't thinking about the clutch side crank seal. It is in an oil bath and could leak into the crankcase with the lower pressure in the crankcase during up stroke and cause excessive smoke. However, your leaking somewhere else if your leaking oil onto the ground. SP

Compression check wont tell you if you have coolant leaking into the combustion chamber. Oil leak could be a seal, a leak between the case halves. Could be (if its on the flywheel side) an aluminum cap that plugs the hole where the shaft for the shift forks are inserted. I lost one of these and had a slow leak there. It could also be the plastic cap that covers the shift drum. SP

If it was losing case oil then it would either be due to a worn or damaged seal or wear or damage to the shaft the seal is sealing against. You can likely replace the seals without splitting the cases. First you have to determine were the oil is leaking from. A compression test might lead you to determine if you need a top end. I don't think that would cause excessive smoke. This is a 2 stroke, not a 4 stroke. The rings are for building compression. There is no oil in the crankcase to, so blow by would not allow oil into the compression chamber. The fuel mixture is drawn into the crankcase prior to the compression chamber so its all the same. If it is white smoke it could be water leaking into that side. SP

I have seen them get hot on the end next to the ball or weld to the ball. Other then that I don't think it can go bad. SP

Fix what? Smoking out the left side or leaking oil? SP