spurdy

Probably bigger carbs would be my next mod. Never a boost bottle. Changing your compression may force you to change your fuel octane as well. SP

Those are pretty sweet. I got mine from F.A.S.T. Not sure who they are made by. They are chrome and clamp around the stinger tube. Haven't had any leaks with them yet. They come in different sizes for different pipes also. SP

I would say that it likely doesn't matter what you are using their oil in. They designed the oil to lubricate and they know based on R & D what it should be mixed at. 20 years ago yamalube said mix at 20:1. Today I think they say 32:1? Anyway, my point is that as oils have become better the ratio has gone up. Listen to the manufacturer of the oil and when in doubt ask them. Everyone has a website and a tech line. JMO. SP

I've never dealt with Flotek but he seems to have a good rep around here. I have dealt with Kevin and he has been great, from the start, through the build, through tuning and after the sale. Straight up good guy there. If he was your choice I would bet money that you wouldn't be disappointed. Excellent work and customer service. SP

Depends on where you are and where you are going as well as how fast you want it to get there. It cost me about $50 from Kansas City, MO to San Diego UPS Ground for Jugs and bottom end. SP

Generally an overheating issue is related to something else not right, coolant flow, jetting etc. The stock cooling system works well if everything else is right. Not so sure I believe the aftermarket heads help cooling that much. But all things considered, a little insurance (oversized radiator, engine ice, billet impeller) is worth the money if you have a mint in a motor. SP

50:1 / 32:1 is a ratio no matter what fluid is used. 32 equal parts of one mixed with 1 equal part of another. Hope this clears it up for you. SP

I used that expanding foam with a layer of plastic half full in a box. Set my motor in it as it was expanding. Another layer of plastic sheet over the motor then sprayed more foam and closed the box. I think the "crack filler" from Lowes or Home Depot would do the same. Sets up pretty ridged and provides excellent packing since it is conformed to your parts. Similar to HiltiFoam if your familiar with that. SP

I think your right. It is so easy to misconstrue someone's demeanor when you are reading their typed comments. I didn't mean to sound condescending or demeaning bro. Just trying to help you out. It is too easy to spend your cash and then not be happy. I think there are several that have been down that road. And if you'll notice, I didn't even recommend a builder to call. I wasn't advertising anything for anyone cause you didn't ask for that. Just trying to help you out. SP

Your switch is probably fine. Likely got dirt or sand or something in it keeping it from grounding out to kill your ignition signal. Pretty simple switch and its likely it could be fixed. If someone is going to steal it that key isn't going to do shit. SP

Banshees have key switches? :blink:

-Major cylinder head port work..........What exactly do you mean by this? Someone mentioned V Force reeds. I wouldn't recommend reeds if your not porting your jugs. There are much better ways to spend 2-300 $s. I don't think you'll realize anything from them without porting. Best bet is to talk to the guy doing the port work. He should be asking you what type of riding you do, what pipes your running, what compression you want to be at, and should be able to tell you what carbs to use and what domes to get with his port job to put you where you want to be. If your guy isn't on that level I would really at least talk to some other builders and get a feel for what they can offer. If money isn't an issue then what are you really after? Being able to say you did it yourself and have a good running bike, or paying someone $300 for a port job and doing the rest yourself and having a great running bike. Don't get me wrong, I am not saying your guy doesn't know what he is doing by any means. I'm just saying "shop around" and base your decision on what your really after. Been down both roads and you can guess the outcome. Best of luck. SP

Two ways to do it. Run a spacer plate under the jugs to raise your port timings and increase your cylinder volume for the increased stroke. Or run custom cut domes for the increased stroke and port for the correct timings. Spacer = poor man's stroker, so to speak Cut domes and porting = the more efficient (less chance for air leak) and most builders will say that they can get the most power out of doing it this way, May come down to personal preference or personal choice. I went with cut domes and porting by HJR and couldn't be happier. SP

The volume in the boost bottle would be air/fuel mixture anyway! Sounds like there wasn't much thought put into what your teach told you. SP

True, but I thought he said at the end of the road he still had a gear left where he didn't before. He should be spinning up faster and hit top speed sooner, not later. He shouldn't have gained much top end, just whatever RPMs he has gained over the last set up. I'd bet his jetting isn't quite right. SP

Didn't you see my response to the last post that you asked that question in?? Here is a copy of it. QUOTE (dusty_v141 @ Feb 15 2009, 04:34 AM) * im also thinking of doin the 2 into 1 carb. what do you have and how much do you want for it man A buddy of mine has a single carb set up from Trinity. It comes with the intake and boot, carb, filter and throttle cable. I am pretty sure the carb is a 35 PWK. He is going to double check that when he gets home. That is usually what Trinity ran with their single set up. He said make him an offer. This post has been edited by spurdy: Today, 07:57 AM Let me know if your interested. SP

Mine doesn't pull hard at high RPMs either. I don't notice anything different accept that it may want to engage a little at high RPMs with the clutch pulled in, but that is just the levers pressing against the pressure plate. But that doesn't change the tension on my cable. My shifts nicely and isn't an override but it is definitely far from stock. Don't know what to tell you man. SP

Best way to test for an air leak is to pull the exhaust and the carbs. Cap the exhaust ports. Cap one intake. Rig the other cap for the second intake with an airline, pressure regulator and a valve. Set the pressure regulator to 6 psi. Open the valve and pressurize the crankcase to the preset 6 psi. Close the valve and time the leak back rate. You should be able to hold 6 psi for 6 minutes. Another way is to check the case under vacuum but few people have a way to generate pressure less then 1 bar and/or measure pressure less then 1 bar. It wouldn't take much under 1 bar to test. You surely wouldn't want to generate anything near a hard vacuum in your cases, it would be much the same as over pressurizing them. But yes, you could use carb cleaner while its running. Just not how I would do it. Good luck SP

LOL! That would cause a mechanical issue! Would the cover even fit over a direct drive type lock up? SP

Don't know what kind of intakes you have....sounds like stock. I was running billet intakes that had the port on the top for the crossover tube and I just cut them off, drilled and tapped for 1/2" NPT and epoxied a stainless steel flush plug in mine. Nice and clean and no crossover. Still running like that for a few years now. So you have a couple of options. Figure a way to plug them or figure a way to plumb them. Either way you don't want to spring an air leak or you will have bigger issues. And I am not sure what you meant by "would it be alright to just route some hose over the ports to keep them covered?" SP

I don't think the centrifugal force of the lock up is going to make the clutch lever hard to actuate. It can engage while the lever is pulled in at high RPMs. If the lever is hard to pull I would say you have a mechanical issue somewhere. Most guys do run an override with a lock up but it doesn't sound like that is what your experiencing if the clutch is just hard to disengage. SP

A buddy of mine has a single carb set up from Trinity. It comes with the intake and boot, carb, filter and throttle cable. I am pretty sure the carb is a 35 PWK. He is going to double check that when he gets home. That is usually what Trinity ran with their single set up. He said make him an offer. SP

Better low end. I can hook you up with one if your interested. SP

I can help you out. PM sent. SP

I've run them on both sides and didn't notice any difference in either case. No dyno results to show slight increase or decrease though. I use them with my 35 PWKs to clear the clutch actuator. SP