spurdy

Good luck with that! I reserved our site 6-8 weeks ago and it was pretty slim pickins for sites to reserve then. SP

Don't get me wrong. I didn't say not to buy it. It may be a good buy simply for the reasons Rollins stated. However, as far as an investment, there are usually much better ways to invest 6 grand. JMO SP

Should connect to a "T" with the hose coming from behind the water pump cover. The other end runs down over the engine and is a vent. You can run it anywhere you want. It's just a crankcase vent. SP

There is no assurance that anyone can give you. People true and weld them because they do come apart. Knowing that they can separate when not welded is knowing that you will be taking a chance if you don't weld it. If you don't have the money to do it right you sure don't have the money to do it twice. So you don't have the money for a 4mil crank. Just split the cases and weld your stock crank. Should be able to do it for around $50. Check and or replace seals ($40). Now, next year when you want to build your 4mil you'll have a good welded crank that you can likely still sell. Much cheaper this way then to have your webs separate and possibly ruin your cases or worse. JMO SP

Spurdy isn't the one looking for porting! Lol! :biggrin:

x2 Good and cheap insurance. Especially running higher compression. SP

I think it would be rare for sure. I really don't think it would be worth much unless you found somebody fanatical about atvs or Banshees. Its not like it would be an antique or anything. SP

HJR Encinatas CA (outside San Diego) FAST Holton Kansas (outside Kansas City)

I think Liberty Cycle carries it. I wouldn't spit on Yamaha North if they were on fire but that's just me. Their customer service is horrible and their prices are out of line. I would drive to Shawnee Mission Cycle before I Yamaha North any of my money! Just my 2 cents. SP

I have a good stock crank trued and welded that I may be willing to part with. PM if interested. SP

Holy Shit Batman! $50 to pull the flywheel! That's ridiculous. Biggest reason why I wouldn't spit on my local dealer if they were on fire! Really, the puller is the only safe way. A 3 jaw gear puller may bend the flywheel or brake the magnets. You can get one off ebay for like $12 bucks or so. Do you have any local shops besides dealers? Lots of places carry them and they are not expensive. I'd loan yuo mine if you were close. SP

I have made a "T" near the top of the return radiator hose and tied in a standard meat thermometer probe. I think I have seen a similar post on here for it. Really cheap and clean. I ran mine through the gas tank shroud or the radiator shroud (don't remember which, been a few years). It was pretty accurate but you really couldn't read it well while driving due to the vibration. SP

I would say hands down a Banshee. Starting out stock with a Banshee, you can mod it till it will out run the raptor. It will take more money to make a Raptor put out the same power as a modded Banshee. Plus, the Banshee is soooo much easier to work on. I would say even a stock Banshee would be a vast improvement over your modded Blaster. If not, your only a set of pipes away! SP

Actually, all the letters have to be in the word along with no additional letters. Yours is still hard to decipher. It is a cool trick but you still screwed it up! Lol. Even with that being said, punctuation is still a must. Don't remember who said it but "punctuation is like a seat belt, only useful if you use it!" No matter how you slice it, 300 word sentences suck. SP

Flip the thing upside down and remove the lower case half. Everything should be accessible from there. You will need to pull the flywheel and the clutch basket. The flywheel (with the correct puller) to get to the bolts that hold the stator plate on because they are attached to the upper and lower case. The basket because there is a clip behind it that is attached to both as well. Piece of cake. I wouldn't want to try it in the frame either. If you don't get it sealed well, oil puddles would be the least of your worries! An air leak in the crankcase would then require the topend to come apart! Good Luck SP

What is the difference in the 87 model that allows you to run such a lower octane level that is not acceptable for most other years? Or did I misunderstand your post? As I understand all the motors are the same with some slightly different tranny gear ratios throughout the years. SP

There is no gasket. Just a sealant between the case halves. Yamabond is what I've always used but I don't think they make it anymore. There are several alternatives and it has been discussed on here several times. Need to make sure both halves are nice and clean and that maybe hard to do with a small gap between the halves and you can't get to the divider between the crankcase and the tranny. If you can get the seals out and back in without breaking the seal between the upper and lower halves, I would go that route. If I had to break the seal to replace them then I would split the cases completely just to make sure it was cleaned and sealed properly during reassembly. It is possible to split the cases without removing the topend. While it is also possible to split the cases slightly in the frame, I wouldn't take this route just because I wouldn't be comfortable with the reassembly process. JMO SP

I really don't think they can answer that question without knowing which pipe that is. If its a top end pipe the answer would be no. If its a low end pipe the answer would be yes. You could run the single set up on anything but to properly match the setup you need to know what all the components are. But, buying stuff based on price is going to put you in a position to mismatch stuff anyway. I know that comment sucks, but its true. If you must buy based on price and are loo9king at buying used, your best bet is to ask LOTS of questions. You can find good deals here and usually very reputable sellers who would be glad to help you out. SP

Shouldn't be. Doesn't take much clearance. Probably splitting the case 4 or 5mm would be plenty. SP

Yeah, I like the middle one also, but I can't see paying $80 or $90 for a gas cap! SP

Was at a local MX shop yesterday and they were soliciting signatures for this also. Does anyone know much about the online form? I was wondering if I could have several people sign the form from my computer or does it need to show a different IP address or something? Just curious because what would prevent people from signing several different names (or even made up names) from the same computer? Thanks. SP

I second Brandon. Sounds like the surface is just oxidized. SP

Be carefull beating the thing apart. I've seen a lot of cases broken back by the front sprocket from being smacked with a dead blow hammer. Just FYI. SP

I would put the money into suspension or something. You'll see more from the reeds and carbs after it has been ported. But if your going to port eventually then those items wouldn't be wasted. By the same token you'll have to put some money into suspension at some point as well. SP

I don't think you'll see that big of a difference with the V3s. You will with the carbs though. Depends on the riding you do and where you want the power. Also depends on how well the porting allows your motor to flow in determining carb size. SP