spurdy

I am running a 21cc custom cut 4 mil dome and am pushing 200psi compression. Lots of factors, exhaust duration, gaskets, etc. Kevin thought mine was high as well considering the porting he did. I have a new set of domes to check out. I run VP Red with no issues. SP

NGK all day long. Why champion anyway? SP

I am good with that. Tired of being down and never meeting anyone. We need Magz to hook us up with the decals again! We need a "for sure" way to identify HQ members. SP

Just adjust it and try different advance settings and see what suits you better. Different motors and different mods respond differently. Its a simple adjustment, just play around with it. SP

Duh! You still didn't provide any other information, like what state or city it was stolen from. SP

Of all the tires I have tried, I like the Skat Trak Haulers or Extreme Haulers best. They have the best hook of any tire I've used. They are very light weight, and like the other guy said, "less unspun weight" is best. I'm not a fan of V paddles but I also run front sand tires. SP

I have seen several stators that look like that or worse and work fine. Unless your running additional lights I would always run a stock stator. SP

0.010" = 0.25mm 1" = 25.4mm SP

Ask him if it was still back firing when he pulled it out of the bike! SP

About 2 -2.5 hours. HJR aggresive dune port with 35 PWKs, pods, CPIs.

I really don't think it is so much the shape of the cages as much as the reeds themselves. SP

WOW! :blink: I've owned several Banshees and have no clue how to tell you to do this. I guess my best answer would be to look at it, contemplate, and come up with a plan of action and implement it. Past that I can't help you. I've never owned a Banshee that was oil injected. Not being a smart ass (well, maybe a little) but damn! I little investigation and I bet you can figure it out! Maybe a little less general question would generate a better suited response. SP

Come on man, don't be a quitter. You will only get out of it what you put into it ( and I'm not just talking about money. Have some heart for christ sake! SP

Another vote for a 4mil. SP

TORS Throttle Over Ride System. I just assumed that you didn't have this on you bike. My bad. Most people remove them first thing. It is a Yamaha safety system that drops out the ignition if the throttle isn't slightly pressed. I don't know much about them cause all of the bikes I have ever owned had it removed before I got them. If you have this system someone else will have to help you out. I would recommend if you have it to just wire around it. I think you can do this by just disconnecting everything. The carb caps can then be replaced with new ones without the the system on top. You'll also need to drill and tap into your stock carbs for an idle screw or upgrade to new (bigger) carbs. SP

I didn't think he wanted the nut. I think he is after a socket to remove the nut. I could be wrong though. SP

That is crazy. The ignition is an electrical circuit. The throttle is a mechanical assembly. One cannot effect the other unless the physical movement of the throttle cable is causing a short to ground with your ignition, but I would venture to say that is highly unlikely. SP

It is PSS (post sub script) Just FYI (for your information) LOL! SP

Aren't we discussing this in another post?

No! It's not the same. That bolt is an eccentric bolt. That's what you use to adjust the position of the shift claw. You also need the washer with the locking tab. If your pieces are gone I would be fairly concerned about where they went. You don't want that shit flying around inside your clutch cover. You can tear allot of shit up inside there. SP

Likely bearings are bad. They are standard bearings also. Any bearing house will have them, probably cheaper then you can get them shipped from anywhere. You just have to measure the ID, OD and width. Measurements are in mm if your wondering. SP

I am 100% sure it isn't from the coolant reservoir. The piece from the coolant reservoir is about the size of a half dollar. And if that's your cock ring......DAMN! LOL! SP

SWEET!

No it is not the same. When you mill the head you change your squish clearance. The distance between the crown of the piston and the squish band of the dome. When you change domes in a cool head this distance is adjusted in the new dome. With the stock head you haven't changed the dome just the the volume by removing material from the original surface. You can have the dome re-chambered but now your getting into more more and should just by a cool head at this point unless you want the stock head (sleeper) look. I would measure the squish clearance before milling and take that into consideration for how much to mill off. I wouldn't run the squish any tighter the 0.40-0.45mm. SP

I would bleed them again and see if you have more air bubbles. The system may be sucking in air. If they are soft I would think it is air in the line again. Air compresses different then fluid. SP