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spurdy

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Everything posted by spurdy

  1. That is what my case cover looks like also. I think it is normal. SP
  2. What part of the housing? Around the diameter or on the cover? If it is around the perimeter I would guess the bearing has some radial movement. SP
  3. I would say you are missing a lot! I really don't see much in your list that I would consider performance modifications (other then your carbs which probably aren't needed on a stock port) which is what I am assuming you are asking about. Timing plate Porting Pipes to compliment porting Something other then stock for intake Lightened Flywheel (some like it, some don't, some are indifferent) Gearing Suspension Billet Impeller Smaller domes and higher octane fuel Upgrade clutch (spings, plates, pancake bearing) The list is endless, what's your budget? That will tell you a lot! SP
  4. I had a damaged stub shaft on a brand new 4 mil crank. I chucked in it a lathe and indicated it in. Cut the end of the stub of and drilled a hole in the center (with the crank still in the lathe). Tapped to the appropriate size and pitch (had to order the tap) and threaded in a new bolt with green locktight. Finally, with the crank still in the lathe I cut the socket end of the bolt off and cleaned up the threads. Been running great for a whole season now. Much cheaper then a new crank. Good luck! SP
  5. That would depend entirely on the new shape of the dome as well as port durations. SP
  6. Some years have tail light only. You may not have a braking light. If you do you should have a switch at your foot brake lever. SP
  7. That sucks bro. It is always a good time at LS as long as the weather holds! To bad about your trip. SP
  8. We will be there on the 15th / 19th in site 128 at the South camp ground up on the hill. Not sure how many yet. Meeting some friends from Tonganoxie, Jeff from FAST may crash there for a day or so, b_bruton77 may be there also plus the guys coming with me. If you need a place to crash we will do what we can to make room! The more the merrier! Come on Zach, spring break was nothing compared to what Snake Hunt has in store! See you there! Shannon
  9. What overboost says may very well be true. But, for me, I like the piece of mind knowing that I am running an oil that is "supposed" to be made for high revving 2 stroke engines. It may all be a marketing scam to get my hard earned dollar but in the grand skeem (sp) of things it really isn't that expensive compared to motor work on a built motor. I guess it just gives me a warm fuzzy. Some claim that some oils give snappier throttle response. I have never noticed this but I am not a big competition racer either. I run Klotz Super Techniplate by the way. If it has the appropriate API rating it is probably good to go. SP
  10. It sounds like these guys may have you on a path, hopefully the right one. I am a little confused by the whole voltage/current thing. Are you measuring voltage or current? You wont have any current with the load unplugged. The lights run off of AC voltage which is what you should be measuring and this voltage needs to run through the "voltage" regulator or it will fluctuate up and down with the RPMs of the motor thus damaging the resistive filament producing the light at high RPMs. The current (or load) will only be present when the bulb is connected and will be very small and likely need to be measured in a parallel circuit with your meter (depending on type of meter). A clamp on meter will not be good for this application because of the small load but shouldn't matter since measuring the voltage should be good enough to trouble shoot the circuit. Don't wiring diagrams differ slightly throughout the years? I thought at one point the switches passed voltage through and in other years they passed voltage to ground such as the ignition signal? Not sure what other differences there were but I was sure my Clymer had a few wiring diagrams for different years. SP
  11. Sorry, I thought that "break in" was self explanatory. Sheerider is correct. Break in is to "seat" the rings. Once this is done it doesn't have to be done again until something changes in the cylinder wall or the rings are replaced. SP
  12. Everytime I try to view that online manual I get an error. It just doesn't work for me. SP
  13. Who da thunk it? That is some pretty funny shit there! Good catch. Wonder how long I'da been fucking with carbs? SP
  14. I believe it was 20 ft lbs. Just changed domes last week. Boy my memory sucks as I get older! SP
  15. Don't take this the wrong way cause I'm really not trying to be a dick. I always think it is best if you can lead someone down the path so that they can answer their own question. So I start by asking you......What is the purpose of "break in" to begin with? SP
  16. I 2nd the coolant leak. Strange about the dirtbike crank thing also, thought all dirtbikes were singles. SP
  17. I am currently running a set of intakes with 35PWKs and no crossover. No issues with running or starting here. Been like that for 2 years on this bike and ran for several years on my last one also.
  18. What exactly do you mean "only one piston moving"? As well as "The other side sometimes moves or moves really slow, "??? If one piston doesn't move you have serious problems. If your just not getting exhaust out of both silencers equally then it is probably a sync issue. But I think you need to explain yourself a little better to get an accurate diagnoses. SP
  19. $6-$7 for 110 octane depending on brand and quantity purchased. MO SP
  20. Jeff, Thanks again for the dogs and beer. It was really a good trip! Good weather, good company, and no breakdowns. Well, my son's exhaust flange broke but we welded it back together ok. Can't wait to see everyone again at Snakehunt! Shannon
  21. I've always shut down around 220 also. Sometimes its not hard to get there in the summertime at the dunes. That was before I put in the bigger radiator. Anxious to see how it does this summer.. SP
  22. That's good to know. I rode my first override this weekend and it was awesome. Just worried about backloading it cause it wasn't mine! I was really thinking about getting one until I heard all this about backloading it. I really use my motor and downshifting to slow me down while blipping the throttle to keep fuel in it. Mine shifts as good as an override with the exception of shifting load. I can shift without the clutch but have to let off the throttle. Still debating the purchase. Also thinking that I can do my own instead of buying one. I know I can cut the gears just not sure what they do to the shift drum. SP
  23. spurdy

    Sand Tires

    I mostly dune with a few drags and I love my haulers! I am running a 4 mil with a plus 4" swinger and don't have trouble with it standing up all the time. Only when I want it to (mostly!). I don't have any issues with the haulers for a play tire. I wouldn't ever run anything else. I have a set of sand stars on my wife's 400 and they are a good tire also. So many choices, and so many opinions! Lol! SP
  24. I have a set of haulers on 8" rims and a set on 10" rims. I like the 8"s better because they are quite a bit lighter then the 10"s. SP
  25. Now that pic there does look pretty cool........How much did it set you back? SP
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