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spurdy

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Everything posted by spurdy

  1. Rear wheels don't have bearings. Just a hub on the axle. Tranny bearings don't go out often. Even when ran out of fluid the gears break teeth before the bearings go. However, anything mechanical has its limits! SP
  2. I haven't been able to keep mine working for long periods of time. The RTD is located at the top near my radiator inlet (as far from the coil as I can get). I've shielded the cable to the micro processor and grounded one end. However, I am running a BP plug instead of a BR plug and am not willing to change. Electrical noise without the use of a battery (like the 4 strokes) prevents the suppression of noise in the ignition system. This is why the micro processor faults and turns itself off. SP
  3. With the right boots you can. Have you looked at how the airbox attaches to the intake of the carbs yet? It is pretty obvious if you do. Not trying to be a dick it just comes out that way, LOL! SP
  4. Never HEARD of a 3mm stroker. How do you get to 420cc from a 3mm stroker anyway? Is it a bigger bore? I always steer clear of items that the owner is selling when they don't even know what they have. Unless you are trying to kipe something from an unsuspecting seller but for 2K I don't think that is the case. Likely better finds out there for that money. SP
  5. I personally think the stock stator is the most reliable. And no, I wouldn't run 50s off it. I run 35s off mine and it isn't super bright but I can get by. SP
  6. Out of that entire thread, how did you come to the conclusion that the Moose stator was garbage? I've never heard of anyone having issues with the Moose stator. Just the Ricky Stator ones and the RM ones from Canada and with those it seems like it is luck of the draw. But I didn't see any posts that said anything about Moose other then they have had good luck with them. And I would have to say I'm in that group as well. SP
  7. I think the only thing they do to that drum is turn down the end of it that sits in the case so that you can fit a needle bearing on the end. I have it done to my tranny but I did it myself. It is easy to do if you have access to a lathe. I also have bearings on the shift shaft and removed every other dog from the gears and every other webbing removed allowing the gears to mesh easier. It shifts great but is nothing like a dunable. SP
  8. I have no clue what a "full dyno port" is and can't tell what pipes either. I would definitely check it over good. Make sure it shifts through all the gears up and down easily. Check for play in the rear axle bearings and swing arm bearings. A arm bushings for play. Does it roll straight when you let go of the handle bars. Check the brakes. Look the motor over really well. Stock head? Broken case by the primary drive sprocket. Is it bored over? If so, how much? Stock is 64mm and you can go up to 66mm before you start getting thin on the sleeves. You can sure sink a lot of cash into a used banshee depending on the care that was given by the previous owner. No clue what your bike is worth but you could likely buy a bike like that all day long for about 2k maybe less if you search hard. SP
  9. I run Klotz SuperTechniplate at 40:1. Guys usually run between 32:1 - 50:1 depending on oil used and personal preference. SP
  10. I found 22560 through google. It is good for $20 off of $150. I used it yesterday. SP
  11. I called around and found it at a local race shop. I would think anybody carrying sunoco products could get it. SP
  12. I hope someone is enjoying this! I just can't read anymore! I vote for "force applied to bearings lessen as the angle is reduced". Ignition happens prior to TDC however effective burn isn't immediate. Thus the reason for advanced timing so that effective burn is complemented with the downward stroke of the piston. This is one effect of detonation! This is why detonation destroys cranks and fucks up pistons because load is reduced as the angle lessens. SP
  13. I just bought a drum of TurboBlue made by Sunoco for $3.40/gallon. It is similar to VP Red, octane rating of 105 and the flash point is supposed to be higher so that when mixed with oil the flash point is similar to the VP or other sunoco raceing fuels. I have only run a few gallons through so far but it seems to be just as good as the VP fuel I paid $7/gallon for last season. Just FYI. SP
  14. spurdy

    Waynoka

    WTF Tim? Steppin up now? That means I can plan on running with both cylinders for this trip? LOL! See you there! SP
  15. You might have got a good deal on the bikes and trailer but your negotiation skills suck ass if you can't get the wife to buy into that deal! LOL! Gotta get her on a bike! It makes the game soooooo much easier bro! Love the seat on the yellow and white one! That is tight. SP
  16. See how different the responses are without a smart ass title about owning a 450 on a banshee forum! You really should only post the same question in one forum though. We typically frequent all forums and don't like reading the same stuff in multiple places. People may stop responding all together if that becomes a habit. SP
  17. Well, you kind of asked for all the smart ass comments when your insert a title stating "should have bought a 450"! What did you expect? Lol! You need air, fuel, and fire to start. If your not starting then you a re missing one of these items. Make sure your getting fuel. If it ran good before then I would say your jetting is close. Check the pick up gap. Check the stator winding for the ignition. Check the coil .Although coils can test good and fail once under load, I just keep and spare and swap out if in question and I've never had to replace one. Swapping plug wires isn't going tell you anything unless your checking visual spark against each other. Could be bad reeds also. If the fuel charge isn't "trapped in the circuit it will just flow back and forth from the carb to the crankcase without being drawn into the cylinder. One thing I do if I can't figure out what is wrong quickly is make a list of what it could be and start eliminating things on that list. Good luck! SP
  18. Just looking for some new codes. The 2500 series codes are now expired. SP
  19. Snops probably right. I have had 2 motors with different port jobs. Kevin's port flows a ton more then my Trinity motor did and uses a lot more fuel. If you did drop to a smoller size you likely wouldn't see a decrease in fuel consumption. SP
  20. If Jim set it up with 35s I'd leave em on it. Why change? I love 8" rims better then 10"s by a long shot. They are so much lighter which equals less unspun weight. More wobbly for duning with a tall tire but I run a 21" 9 paddle hauler on 8"s and I like them much better for duning/dragging. If your just dragging I would think you could go up to a 22" tire if you wanted but I don't know how well that would dune. Maybe too much side roll cause of the side wall. SP
  21. I am running the same gasket. A little more difficult to match to the cases and your jugs if they are matched to each other but not bad. I just used a drimmel. SP
  22. Second vote for Fastenal. They usually have metric bolts Hex head, Socket head, Button head and they usually have them in stainless as well. I can get some clear anodized aluminum washers that are 3mm thick about 20mm in diameter that have a counter sunk hole for an M6 counter sunk bolt. I buy them from work for $3 and can get the bolts and nylok nuts for free. They fit perfect on the banshee plastic and give a nice large surface so the bolts don't pull through. The nyloks nuts are nice because you don't have to overtighten them and get nasty impressions in the plastic. Let me know if anyone is interested in a set. I have them on my bike and they really look clean. SP
  23. I've got a set of Trinity Dual intakes with the fancy "turbo" cut on the intake track and a single piece Boss intake. I don't see a difference in performance between the 2. But I am running 35s, I don't see why that would make a difference. SP
  24. I had a set of haulers last almost 5 years before the paddles started to break off. They broke at the cup, not where they are vulcanized to the carcass. Just from being old I suspect.
  25. WOW That is 80:1! I use ST also but I mix 32 oz to 5 gallons and that is 40:1 without an issue. I would be scared to run it at 80:1. SP
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