spurdy

I have never seen a bike do this because the coil wires are switched. Coil wires can be placed on either plug, there is no right and left. Both plugs are fired at the same time while one piston is at TDC and the other is at BDC. That's why there are two ignition flags on the flywheel. I would say that it is likely his flywheel is loose and the timing is advance way too far. SP

Actually a tranny running the stock clutch cover holds 1500 mL = 1.5 L = 1.585 qt. A modified clutch cover for a lock up clutch will hold a litlle more. SP

Yes it has been posted several times. But engine mods wont effect top speed. Only gearing and RPMs. As long as you know roughly what RPMs your pipes will let you rev to the rest can be calculated because it is only a matter of gearing. Engine mods determine how quickly you can pull through the gears and how tall of a gear you can pull.:biggrin: SP

They should be dead nuts even. The flow meter is invaluable. When I set mine by eye and checked with the flow meter they were off by about 50% flow! If one is higher at idle then the other then one is drawing more air which carries more fuel then the other. SP

If it were me I would get a dial indicator and indicate the crank. If it indicates in within factory specs I would weld it and call it good. SP

Yeah, Jason's Raptor does really well and he is only running 7 paddle Haulers! If your already building a motor the cost difference isn't that great. A stock crank over a 4 mil long rod crank is only a few bucks. Porting is the same price. Pistons are within a few bucks. Domes are only a few bucks more. Carbs and pipes are rider preference. Now, if you have a good running stock motor and just want to upgrade to a 4 mil that changes things. Now you have to buy all this in addition to what you already have that is in good shape. As far as a downside, I don't see one in my case. This is my first season on my 4 mil but once tuned in I haven't had any issues. SP

My last motor was a Trinity motor with Wiseco pistons. My current motor is a 4 mil with 795 series Wiseco pistons. One thing that is really hard on motors is when you start them and run the piss out of them without letting them warm up properly. The piston gets bigger faster then the sleeve. This really shortens the life of the top end. If your jetting is on the money you shouldn't go through plugs very often either. Maintenance and I even pressure test my motor once a year to make sure I don't have any air leaks. SP

Are you guys talking about the comment of Jeff epoxying the lower end? There are 4 spots on the lower case half (like studs with a whole in the center) that he uses epoxy to close. Claiming that it can be a source of an air leak creating a lean condition. Epoxy is added from the outside of the case, not on the inside. Not sure if this is what you are talking about, just my 0.02. SP

I put 30 - 40 hours a year on my bike and have gone 4 seasons on my last motor. Only dropped 5 psi on a compression check over 4 seasons. Mostly just sunig and trail riding. I think most of the reliability of a banshee motor comes from proper maintenance and knowing your motor. Knowing when something is wrong such as jetting, air leaks, and being well put together for the power it makes. Welded crank and that kind of stuff. SP

Had the same issue. Yamabond and a slight ping on the outside to increase the interference fit as previously stated. SP

Good to meet you too! Great time, good beer, and thankfully my bike was running real well. Kevin really does top notch work! Was surprised how well it ran against Zack's 421 Cheetah! Still needing some practice on the sweet spot of the launch though! Will likely plan our next trip for Sept. This was the first trip with my 9 year old riding our Honda 250 EX. He launch that thing in fourth gear and landed it 35 ft away! What a crazy little shit! Pretty good freestyle show too. The kids really enjoyed it. Hope to see you all next trip! Good luck with the "buddy bike" Tim. Let me know if you need anything. Zack, hit me up, let's get to the lake together sometime this summer. Later guys. SP

Riding was great today. A little rain in the afternoon but great riding after the sun came back out. Waiting for you guys to show up! Where is everyone at, you have to work or something? LOL! Your gonna have a lot of beer to drink to catch up! Bike is running good, nice and quite so far! See you tomorrow Tim and Zack. You gonna make it Shawn? I am camped right north of LS power sports next to the HWY with a green and white bus and matching trailer. Be sure to stop by! Later SP

A nice sized heavy card board box is fine. The key is that the contents doesn't move around. Heat resistant plastic on top of expanding foam. Let the foam start to expand and set your motor in. Another layer of plastic and foam on top. Add foam until almost full and close the lid, tape up real good and you are good to go. Got a solid block of foam with your motor inside. Easy to open and remove the top half of the foam and the same can be used to ship it back with. Less wieght for cardboard then a crate. Mine was $75 from KS to CA. Got there and came back perfect. SP

Shawn, we are camping just north of LS power sports in the first campsite next to HWY 281 by the entrance. BOSS MAN, thanks for the offer for a beer run, but I am good. See you there! Weather looks like it might be a repeat of SnakeHunt though. SP

I think that is the south camp. Your first trip Timmy? SP

I have the same thing done to my tranny. Every other dog cut off and every other webbing removed. Bearing on the shift drum and bearings on both ends of the shift shaft. Shifts pretty well with my 4mil. Nothing like an override but I don't have to worry about backloading the trans either. Doesn't miss shift very often and I can't shift under load. SP

Never noticed any difference in performance. I ony use them for bowl clearance with the clutch actuator. SP

Biatch! You're CRAZY! I think I can beat you in reverse! SP

If you don't have a 4 mil crank then something else is fucked up. You need to figure out what isn't right or else you will likely have issues and most probably expensive ones. If you really do have one of the "fastest" banshees in SW or SE (don't remember) KS, then you should know that these things spin very quickly and if shit aint on the money, well, I'm sure you know the ending. Figure out what isn't kosher and go from there. SP

Well, if you just cut the band width, who knows what you'll end up with for volume. Not to mention you've changed the length of the band width as well as the squish clearance. There is a lot of power in the squish clearance. So, with everything looked at, the money put into these engines, do you really want to sacrifice HP and TQ numbers over the cost of an $80 set of domes? SP

I'm by no means an expert but it seems that a simple "clean up" port would be relatively simple to do. However, if you want to pull the true power from the stock banshee porting is where it is at. This is going to require a thorough understanding of the 2 stroke process including flow into and out of the crankcase as well as intake and exhaust durations. The degrees at which these ports are open is the heart of porting. This is completely different then cleaning up the casting flaws from Yamaha. I have complete access to all machining tools as well and would spend the money on a decent port job everyday vs doing it myself! If all your looking for is a clean up, then I say "go for it". If your after power, shell out the bones to a builder and let them bring a smile to your face. JMHO SP

Got one polished without water pump. $75 shipped.

I'll be there no later then the 10th. SP

Nope. You would just have to give them a call. HJR 760.815.1316 FAST 785.364.5325. SP

I put my studs in with blue loctite. Never know when you may want to go back to stock studs. I only use red in applications where I can cut the bolt in two or twist it in half if I need to remove it, never in a blind hole! SP