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spurdy

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Everything posted by spurdy

  1. A buddy of mine used high temp silicon based sealant and the structure of the sealant was broken down within just a few days. We weren't sure if this was due to the gasoline of the vibration. In any case it was a very costly mistake for him. SP
  2. It's too early to be yelling like that. SP
  3. I don't know that they'll be better or worse then any other carb. I ditch a set of 34 mikuni flatslides and went with a set of 35 PWKs. I found that the PWKs were easier to tune but didn't notice much in the way of performance. SP
  4. I am pretty sure the drum is cut on all override trannies. I am sure a stock drum would still run the forks into the correct position it just wouldn't as easily shift like an override is supposed to. SP
  5. Yes, I believe so. Some one will correct me if I am wrong I am sure. You would have to leave the crank and pistons in the upper half cause the pistons wont come through the upper case half. There is a manual pinned at the top of this forum. SP
  6. I think it depends on the brake rotor you run. I don't know if stock rotors changed through the years or not. Xena's website gives physical dimensions. Just measure the diameter a hole on the rotor and the length of throat you will need and match it up with one on the website. SP
  7. If you can't find anything in a bind behind the clutch assembly then I would think you are going to have to split the cases and have a look. I know it isn't much fun but it isn't that bad either. 2-4 hours worth of work depending on how handy you are. SP
  8. No worries. I wouldn't use it myself cause I always have a flywheel puller! However, in a pinch a 3 jaw will work just fine as long as the flywheel pops off easy. The key is to not put a lot of tension against the flywheel and use the shock delivered through the puller bolt. Definitely not ideal but if it has to be done NOW then its an option. SP
  9. I just said as a last resort. If it hasn't been on there forever, it may pop of with a little tension. He asked for alternatives and I gave him 2. The puller was the second choice and not recommended unless the fly wheel has to come off now. And yes, a flywheel puller should be in everyone's toolbox. Hell, I don't go anywhere without 2 of them just because they are cheap and a must have. I was just trying to help a brotha out in a pinch. And I thought I expressed a significant amount of caution. SP
  10. If I didn't have one and I HAD to pull a flywheel I would use a bearing splitter with a cross bar puller. That would put pressure around the entire back of the flywheel. Most people don't have bearing splitters of that size. Next option would be a 3 jaw bearing puller. I'd put a slight amount of pressure against the threaded crank shaft stub and then LIGHTLY tap against the puller bolt. If it didn't come easy then I'd just waiot for the puller. Not worth fucking up a flywheel or crankshaft. SP
  11. For sure, I wouldn't put it together until it shifted on the counter up and down through all the gears with NO trouble. Unless you like tearing it apart! Lol. No, for real, it should shift up and down through all gears with just the tranny in the lower case half. Then install the top (I do this with no sealant) and tighten the bolts down and run through the gears several more times. If I like everything, I open it back up and seal everything and continue assembly. Just my thoughts. SP
  12. It could be a flaw in the reed valve cage, too much torque on one of the bolts causing it to bow, or a flaw in the gasket. I would just use some sealant and call her good. SP
  13. Well, if Jeff sent it too you then my guess would be that it will work. If it is good for your cases, then it is good for the intake. Last time I was at Jeff's I didn't look to see what he was selling for case sealant but I would trust what he told me to use. SP
  14. I don't think that is a good sealant for petroleum. Says it is good for coolants but gas will likely break it down. SP
  15. Don't use silicon. It is not impervious to petroleum and will leak again in a short amount of time. You need to use something like Yamabond 4 or something equivalent. SP
  16. This is like 70 degrees /\ Keep in mind this is 90 degrees ll . Thats is a steep grade fo sure. Lol! SP
  17. Lol! No shit! I was clock at 72mph with 13/41 gearing on 21" tires pulling 6th. Seems a lot faster but the radar doesn't lie!
  18. Just get rid of the boost bottle and plug the holes. As far as having 4 bolts on the billet ones, the rubber boot only has 2 holes and they are shaped like an eye instead of square. You can get the billet ones from Jeff at FAST, Kevin at Herr Jugs, Jim at Passion, and a slew of other after market places. SP
  19. Even the billet intakes require a rubber boot that will eventually crack. SP
  20. YFZ 450 all day if you can find one in your price range. If not a 400 ex with a 440 kit runs pretty well. SP
  21. If there is coolant coming out of the overflow without the bike being hot then it sounds like you are pressurizing the cooling system from the motor. i.e. head gasket or something of that nature. Sounds like your on the right track. SP
  22. Yep! I run reg trans fluid also. Super cheap and change often! SP
  23. I used to run the 927 also. When I tore the engine down it seemed like everything was "gummy" as compared to the previous motor using the supertechniplate. I switched back and am just as satisfied as before with the Klotz brand oils! Just my opinion, I wouldn't run 2 qt in a tranny with a stock cover. 0.40 qt extra is a little too much for me. SP
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