spurdy

Some peoples children! Funny how people that can't fix anything always think their shit is gold! SP

LOL! Only when something fails! Welcome! SP

V paddle/straight paddle is really rider preference. I don't feel that a V paddle helps in turning. JMO, like I said rider preference. If it is a V paddle your after I would go with the ITP Sand Stars. It is a decently priced molded tire and provides a fairly decent hook up. I run them on our DVX 400. SP

10" rims are too heavy and Geckos suck ass. I would do ITP Sand Stars IF I were to do a V paddle, which I never would. There is nothing that pulls harder then a nicely buffed paddle. I dune and lightly drag and Haulers are the only thing I run. Reasonably priced also. SP

Yep. I noticed this with my first lock up. That's why I thought that at high RPMs the force of the levers was still applying some force to the clutch pack. Sounds silly now that I think of it. If that were the case then the components would have to flex significantly and that would lead to failure. So, if the creeping of the primary drive is the result of higher RPMs, what is the cause? SP

Yes, the engine number will let you know what year. That looks like a 1999 engine. But my Clymer doesn't show numbers for 2000 and up.

I thought that at high RPMs the Direct Drive clutch would still apply some pressure to the clutch plates. That's why it will creep forward somewhat while staging with it revved up. Please school me if I misunderstand this. SP

Is there something wrong with the chrome or do you just want them black? There is a guy up in AK that had his pipes painted white and they look pretty damn good! I guess its all in what you want. There is a set of Black ones for sale in the FOR SALE section. SP

WTF is this?

If your spinning a 10 paddle hauler at Little Sahara I would say go back up to a 14 on the front. Could you launch in second gear with the 14? If not I would stick with the 13 up front OR stay with the 13 and add a tooth or 2 to the rear. One tooth up front is equal to about 3 on the rear. I would shoot for a nice good pull launching in second gear. If it wants to flip over on you then I would gear up, if it bogs outa the hole I would gear it down. SP

Yes, that is the tranny oil. 10/W40 is fine, some use 10/W30, 75W gear oil, 80W gear oil, ATF, etc, etc. The crankcase, bearings, and piston rings are lubricated by your 2 stroke mix. SP

I wouldn't think that the carbs out of sync would do damage. Unless one was getting very little to no fuel at idle and it idled for a long period. As long as the slide is up it is getting lubrication. It just would be putting out the power it should. If one piston failed and the other didn't I would really look for an air leak on that side. I would have done a leak test before the tear down and a lot o guys on here would say the same thing. Knowing the "why" can save a lot of headache down the road! SP

Measure the bore and go from there. Once the pistons come in, whoever is doing the machine work should measure the pistons and bore accordingly. SP

You can get everything at a local hardware store for around $10. Much cheaper then another rebuild. What is the pickup gap? Sometimes to large of a gap will produce a weak spark. It should be set at 0.015"-0.018". If it isn't that I would lean towards jetting. Unless there is an airleak. The thing is, depending on what warranted the top end to begin with, not doing a leak down test is just a bad idea. The crankcase could be the cause of a lean condition which caused the need of the top end (not saying this is the case cause I don't know why you rebuilt it). $200-$300 plus one more over bore isn't worth it to me. SP

Did you leak test the engine after the top end? What's the compression? SP

You'll be able to tell more once you open it up. But it sounds like the pistons just heated up to quickly and swelled beyond the size of the bore and got stuck. Since the pistons are softer then the sleeves it is possible that there isn't much damage to the sleeves. You wont know until you pull it apart. May have a hard time getting the pistons out though. I would always pressure test the crank and combustion chamber to insure there are no air leaks because a lean condition dur to an air leak will do the same thing. I always measure the clearances as well. Just good to make sure everything is right. When I am done putting an engine together I want to ride it, not wrench on it! An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Good luck! SP

Well, that definitely sucks. The piston probably heated up and expanded faster then the sleeve. I'm sure you know what that means. So, the piston is likely stuck inside the sleeve. If your really lucky once it cooled off you maybe able to rotate the crank again. If this is the case you may get away with a good honing and new pistons. This is if your lucky. If not, then bore it out again and new pistons. Did you check your piston clearance and ring end gap clearance during reassembly? Did you pressure test after reassembly? SP

I'll buy some t shirts and stickers from you. You shouldn't go in the hole for this shit. Are you taking payment by paypal? SP

I don't necessarily agree with that. Yes, most pistons can be purchased in 0.010" increments (0.25mm) but I have been able to do several top ends by only going over 0.010". It does depend on the damage to the cylinder as to how much needs bored. It is really hard to say how many times it has been bored just knowing that the current bore size is 65mm. SP

LOL! It says right next to the dipstick molded in the cast clutch cover! 1500 ml.

Dude that sucks. I'd be kicking yourself too! SP

Jetting changes maybe easier with the ability to remove each filter easily. I really don't think it would effect cfm that much between a single filter or 2 pods. SP

I would definitely be a little skeptical about letting them work on my stuff again. If they didn't do it right the first time why would they do it right the second. Kinda like sending food back at a restaurant, they sometimes spit in your food. Money back in my pocket for my time and inconvenience and I'll do the work myself and know it is done right! Just my 2 cents. SP

Like already said, everyone is going to like something different. I run Klotz SuperTechniplate @ 40:1 and ATF type F in the tranny.