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spurdy

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Everything posted by spurdy

  1. x2. A 13t sprocket is a 13t sprocket. The pitch of the teeth will determine the circumference/diameter. SP
  2. As long as the one you are buying is unported as well you should be ok. I would definitely measure the deck height and make some good comparisons with the old jug before using it. If it were me I would send them to someone and have them ported before reassembly. It is really the best bang for your buck. But, then again, there is more to a good running motor then just a good port job. It is the entire set up from intake to exhaust that makes the system run well. SP
  3. Yes it does and you usually get what you pay for. Personally, I wouldn't mix jugs. Are your current jugs ported at all? Is this single ported? You just don't know what you will be getting. Someone could have decked the surface of the cylinder or any number of things that will only cause more headaches down the road. Can it be done? Sure, as long as both jugs match each other as far as porting, deck height etc. Just something to keep in mind while trying to save a dollar. Sometimes the cheapest way isn't the least expensive. SP
  4. NO! It doesn't say painted does it? It says it has been "glass beaded"! It has been prepped with a sand blaster with glass beads and is ready for paint. And I have no idea if the jug is good or not, my crystal ball isn't working this AM. SP
  5. Glass beads are a form of media used by a sand blaster to prep the surface for paint. SP
  6. I am running a 4 mil from HJR with a DD clutch and no override. I have some work done to the gears, shift shaft and shift drum on bearings and I have no trouble shifting. Doesn't shift like an override under load but I can shift without the clutch 90% of the time. SP
  7. I had an old set of T3s and "ggogled" them. I found some pictures that showed the difference between the different pipes from Toomey. Just FYI, the T3s may bring a better price then T4s. I sold mine for almost $400 and shipped to a guy in France. They were in average shape. SP
  8. If you want to ditch the boost bottle then just plug the holes in the top of the manifold or replace with a stock cross over tube. I've been running for years with my manifold plugged with no issues. My manifolds are aluminum and I just drilled and tapped 3/8" NPT and put in a stainless steel hex plug with a sealing ring, but you can come up with something simple and clean if your are running a rubber manifold as well. As far as the single carb goes, its all a matter of set up. If your motor is set up for it, it can deliver a lot of low end power with the sacrifice of top end. Snop has done a lot of dyno testing with different carb set ups and a search would likely yield lots of information in this area for you. SP
  9. If you use the stroker domes with no spacer plate your stroke clearance will be ok but you will be changing the port timings and can cause it to run like shit. Best to talk to someone who does port work to get a good idea which way to go. If your going to go with big bore cylinders then you could have them ported for a 4 mil crack and no spacer plate at that time. SP
  10. If you can't read the numbers on the pistons then you can always measure the bore. Which will need to be done anyway to make sure it isn't out of round or tapered before purchasing new pistons. Clymer's states the tolerances for the bore as far as shape and taper. Good luck, SP
  11. I would only use red in this application. The petroleum works against the compound, plus you'll likely not get the surfaces clean enough to secure an adequate bond. I've always used red here and never had an issue. SP
  12. I am running 35 PWKs . And I must have got lucky with my set, while chrome leaves much to be desired, the fitment was a piece of cake. I have heard several horror stories but mine slid in like butter. Win some / lose some I guess. SP
  13. Dude! Don't be so sure. I had a stubborn one last year. Finally said fuck the flywheel and put a 3 jaw puller on it and it didn't do shit. Taken the motor all apart down the the crank with flywheel attached and put the flywheel in a 20 to press. Still no luck. Had the cut the flywheel off with a die grinder / chop saw, hammer and small punch for the rivets. The woodruff key had rocked forward and gouged the inside of the keyway on the flywheel and it wasn't coming off without spreading the collar. Hope this isn't your case couse that was a bitch. Good Luck! SP
  14. Don't know how it is swirling around that way either but you are creating a lower pressure back by the carbs when you increase RPM. Long shot but I don't see anything while it is idling in the video. SP
  15. Green is retaining compound. Anything smaller then an M4 metal to metal likely wont come apart even with heat. The plastic cage of the V force you might get away with but I would for sure use something with a good head for removing in case you need to change petals. I've never had an issue with red locktight and SHCS. SP
  16. The new clutch basket will require the use of that gear. If I understand right this is the gear that engages with the kicker? If so, maybe the kicker is not staying in position as it should. Or maybe your clutch shaft is bent???? I can't really see that but I ain't looking at it. Good Luck SP
  17. I hear what your saying about price and it sounds soo good! So many people want everything for nothing or drop $1500 into a port and parts and then want to reuse seals and make gaskets from cereal boxes! Anyway, when you made the stupid mistake of rolling this thing in gear while the pistons were hanging out there with nothing to guide them up and down, what happened to the pieces that broke off? Was the hole in the upper case tucked in with rags or had it been left open? You are going to need to clean the top of the case mounting surface very well. Nice and smooth. You likewise don't want ANYTHING inside the case. Especially small pieces of leftover piston. Depending on what actually happened, good money (time) may be spend pulling the motor and splitting the cases cleaning (replacing) bearings. Checking crank specs. Shift forks and shafts are a good thing to replace and are fairly cheap. Plus now you can put all new seals in easily. Reseal good to prevent premature airleaks on a new motor. Just money very well spent and you do get what you pay for. Good Luck and next time take the chain off! SP
  18. I'd check Jeff at F.A.S.T and see what he's got especially if its on sale. If not Magnum makes a fairly constructed and priced basket. And what did happen to all the parts? What has been done to the motor so you build the next clutch to handle the power between the motor and tranny to prevent further failure. That could have (and maybe you just don't know yet) a catastrophe! Another thing.....does anyone know how much R21000 south African currency is? Edit: Couldn't wait ....$2694.04 US Shit must be hard to get over there! That is pretty high over here. Hope it was a good deal for you man. Good Luck SP
  19. Those are HEAVY and brittle. They will break and chip. They do not bend. Just FYI SP
  20. OK. First, there is no exhaust passages through the head the cylinders or the cases. This is a 2 stroke. Funnel fuel from the carbs to the crank, up through the transfers to the cylinder. While flowing fuel into the cylinder, that fresh charge pushes the exhaust gases out the exhaust port. So, your exhaust / cylinder connection is the only connection that can and does leak. O-rings in the male part of the exhaust get brittle and break and I always use high temp RTV on the inside also. Other then that it could be a crack in the exhaust flange or something crazy like that. Good luck! SP
  21. 1 Stock airbox is ok but very restrictive. Replace filter with a good foam filter or K&N filter. Remember this is a 2 stroke. Anything you do to increase air flow through the motor will require more fuel from the carbs. 2 Some guys like the single carb (actually one into two) but most guys run duals. Especially in the sand. If you search on this, Snop has done a tremendous amount of research in this area. 3 I think stock compression should be around 125 +or- depending on elevation. Someone may be abel to chime in with something more accurate. 4 There was a set of Aliens for sale in the for sale section just the other day for 300. Good all around pipe but I don't know what all the hype is about. The way they sound, blah, I want performance. Good all around pipe on stock port Toomey T6, Good allaround pipe on ported motor Toomey T5 (or whatever the guy porting it recommends). 5 I mix at 40:1 with supertechniplate by Klotz. Most guys here mix between 32 and 50:1. 6 Cant answer that one for you but HJR racing is located outside of San Diego. He can help you out with all motor work and is a great guy. does great work, great prices, and attitude to match. 7 TORS is Throttle Over Ride System. Obvious the eliminator eliminates this system. The system is messy, ugly, and in the opinion of most, unnecessary. What it does is, it interrupts the ignition signal from the CDI when the throttle is in the back position so that if the cable sticks or something the thumb piece can still activate the switch to disable the motor. (If I don't understand exactly it is only because I've never had a bike with TORS but I have the idea down. It is also tied to the parking break on newer models. I also think the eliminator kit requires the addition of idle screws because the idle screws where in the tops of the tors. Hope that helps! SP
  22. Usually pump gas is good for awhile, like 6 months or so. Now setting it in the sun, that's a different story. Direct UV rays I am sure are damaging as they are to everything else. In a sealed container you can get condensation build up. So yes, I'd say gas could be an issue. But instead of wondering I'd just go get 3$ worth of petro around the corner and find out! Good luck SP
  23. I have Kevin's HJR Dune/Play motor. He ported it for the CPIs I was running and it ran damn good once the jetting was figured out. After I switch to SB Shearer pipes the jetting went way down But I notice a performance increase all around. I didn't have any dyno sheets to compare against because at the time I dyn ed I didn't see the need. I wouldn't go back to the CPIs again and Kevin said he can make some minor porting changes and get a hew more ponies out of her if I want. SP
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