spurdy

If you just checked the compression after replacing the new rings and not breaking the motor in then the new rings are not seated yet. I would bet that the cylinder is out of round or you have a leak between the head and the cylinders or a leak around the spark plugs. You are compressing the air from the closing of the exhaust port into the cylinder and into the head. Any leak from that point will cause a low reading. Reeds don't play a part in this. SP

170 psi will result in what Tyler said, however, if your wanting to stick with pump gas I would stick closer to 150 psi. As Tyler said, you will need to adjust your octane to run higher compression and more timing. SP

x2 Adding a long rod crank (5mm longer then stock) reduces the angle of the rod against the wrist pin position and reduces stress against the skirt of the piston. Standard length rods can be used regardless of piston size. SP

Not sure if I understand your question correctly. You will have to have some place for the piston to go if your running a 4 mill crank cause it will come out of the jug 2mm. The spacer plate makes your jug taller. Or you can re chamber your stock head which allows clearance for the piston. Or you can run stroker domes. Fly cutting the stock head only increase squish clearances and would be going in the opposite direction. Does this make since? SP

I am confused as to why you would think you might need different connecting rods? SP

Porting won't matter for a long rod or short rod. It is just the length of the rod that changes with the long rod. The TDC and BDC stay the same and won't effect port timings. It will, however, effect the type of pistons you will need. But, if it has a long rod in it now, you will have the correct pistons. Should be 795 series wisecos, which has a wrist pin location 5mm higher then stock or the 513 series pistons. If it is a 4 mil stroker then it will need to have a spacer plate or stroker cut domes or a re chambered stock head. SP

Here is a link to a leak down tester posted in the repair forum. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110585 It is pretty simple and there are actually several variations to making one. Basically you are pressurizing the crankcase to 6lbs. and time how ling it holds this pressure. Should hold for 6 minutes. Easy breezey, and doesn't cost much to put one together. Hope this helps and good luck! SP

I used to run supertechniplate and never had any issues. The last bike I bought was set up to run 110 fuel and they had been running 927 so that's what I stuck with. After I changed it out with a 4 mil crank I noticed the carbs were really gummy and everything in the crankcase and the piston rings were gummy. Nothing what the motor I had taken apart looked like after running klotz. So, after I was out of the 927 I had (I had bought enough for 55 gallons of race fuel) I switch back to klotz and have never looked back. No issues to date and I'm on my second drum of fuel. Both I ran at a 40:1 mix. SP Edit: Oh, and my truck is Ford tough also! Lol!

Come on guys, really! In all actuality, there isn't anymore maintenance on a 2 stroke then a 4 stroke. Regular lubrication and oil changes. Properly tuned so it doesn't backfire and jetted so it doesn't overheat or run lean and there really are no issues. Proper fuel mixture and air/fuel adjustments (jetting and no leaks) and a top end will last a very long time. When we go to the dunes, I do see a lot more banshees being pulled in but when you look at the big picture, every forth bike I see is a banshee also! Now, once you start building super high HP engines then everything has to be looked at because everything is going to be under a lot more stress but I think that is a different scenario then what we are discussing here. Just my 2 cents.

One thing to remember about top speed is it is a mechanical calculation determined by your max RPMs, tanny gears, primary drive sprocket/secondary drive sprocket and finally your tire size. It doesn't matter what motor work you have done, it isn't going to go any faster, it will get there quicker and you may have enough power to pull taller gears which will increase speed. I think a stock banshee top speed is about 78 mph. Depending on the pipes you are running, as they will control your max RPMs, you can spin your motor faster and gain some MPH. Other then that you'll have to change gearing to go any faster. SP

I have a buddy that has a Polaris 700 4x4. I can check and see if he wants a sport bike again. SP

Amen!

I thought that Wiseco made the crank for HotRods or Hotrods made the crank for Wiseco. Maybe that is what Snop is refereing to when he said they split and no longer work with each other. Anyway, I am pretty sure Kevin put a Wiseco Crank in my for 4 mil. It was trued and welded and has been running through its second season with no issues. SP

A helicoil will work but a better thread repair is a "keensert" . A helicoil will take a special tap for the outside thread of the helicoil. The pitch is the same but the diameter is bigger. A keensert will use a standard metric tap for the outside diameter and pitch. The keensert is a solid threaded unit as opposed to a helicoil which is more like a spring. Both will work, just the keensert is strong and more of an industrial type repair. SP

My guess would be that with your supporting mods you are on target with some reeds and carbs. If your going with a cub in the future, it would be my opinion to go with some V Force reeds. It seems they are one of the best to run with the cubs (but I am not a big cub guy so if someone else says something different, go with them!). SP

I know what you mean. Your best bet may be to take the original bearing for dimensions and just see if you can get it in a roller type. I have a spare crank downstairs that I can measure the ID, OD, and Width of the bearing if you need it. I know when I replaced bushings in an old J arm frame front end with bearings, I was able to by the needle bearings from a bearing house cheaper then I could get the bushings for from a the dealership. SP

You didn't ask if it was a good oil or not, you asked for the differences. If you would have asked for opinions, I would likely have given you mine. I don't like Maxima oils, I think they are thick and gummy and may cause rings to stick and gums up my carbs. True or not, I don't know, I just know what my last motor looked like after I took it apart running 927 @ 40:1. You asked for the differences, I gave you that. You didn't ask for opinions, therefore I didn't give any. Don't be a dick just because you asked your question in the wrong manner. And yes, most manufacturers are going to call their oils "high quality", that's why I copied the Tech Data as well. Thought you would be intelligent enough to read through the data and come to your own conclusions. Didn't realize you were asking for somebody to make your decisions for you. By the way, there are a lot of folks that use Belray oils successfully and are happy with them. To each his own, its all a matter of opinion. One person has bad luck with a lubricant because they fucked up their premix and its all the oils fault! LMFAO....seen it too many times. Out.

Dude! You specifically asked for the difference between the 2 oils! Who better to explain it then the manufacturer. If you were looking for a different answer maybe you should have asked your question differently. I gave you the exact info you asked for. Sorry for trying to help you out. SP

LOL! That's almost like asking if Ford or Chevy is better! Oils are personal preference per application. If one oil manufacturer or specific oil from a manufacturer was truely superior to the rest the majority of people would run that. As you can see if you search, everyone on here has a preference and no specific oil is a leader over the rest. SP

Formula K2 is a very high performance 100% synthetic 2-cycle lubricant utilizing 2000 centistoke esters along with special additives to achieve outstanding levels of protection and cleanliness. Friction and wear, ring sticking and exhaust tract (power valve) carbon are virtually eliminated. Also provides higher levels of rust & corrosion protection. Technical Data Color D 1500 Red Gravity

Planning on being there for Sand Fest in Sept and a family trip with wife and kids in Mid Oct (16-18). Still to hot to think much about riding in the sand though. Can't seem to get to the lake enough! Zac, currently planning to head to Wilson Lake next weekend (aug 8-9), maybe heading up there on Thursday. Would be cool if you and Melly could make it for a day or 2. Lemeknow! SP

Sounds to me like the left side isn't running also. The right side may not be "too" hot, it maybe just right. Being that you are new to your banshee it could be that you notice a difference but not sure which one is correct. I would definitely do a leak down test to insure there is no air leak. It could be something as simple as the carbs being out of sync with each other. Does it do it at all throttle positions? Only idle? Could also be as previously mentioned, a compression issue on the left side. Disconnecting the plug wires is a good test because it will run on one cylinder. Could be that you don't have fire on that one side (coil wire, plug cap, etc.). Try swapping plug wires and see if the problem stays with the cylinder or follows the wire. SP

LOL! Some carbs yes, some no. It all depends on the size of the outlet of the carb. Check out the manufacturers websites and they will list all carb dimensions. SP

I have a Pro Design head I'd let go for $100. There are several good builders on here that do excellent port work. HJR, F.A.S.T, Wildercard, Passion, Flotek, all have great reps and customer service. Just call around and talk to them and see who "feels" right. Good luck and PM me if your interested in the head. SP

There are several different carbs out there from each manufacturer. Mikuni, Keihin, Lectron, etc. Usually a matter of personal preference as well as type of fuel to be used. IMO I don't think you'll realize the benefit of a larger carb on a stock port motor. A stock port motor just doesn't flow enough volume to warrant increased fuel consumption. It will likely start to flood out until the RPMs can catch up and have a severe dead spot down low from being choked with so much fuel. Porting would be the best bang for your buck and run well with stock carbs, then you could upgrade to bigger carbs and actually realize some benefit from them. SP