spurdy

I know you are just roping off sites, but your only an hour or so away. Its 6 hours for me! Do you pay for the site through the entire time, or just hope that nobody takes your site caused its roped off? SP

Would have stayed with you guys but I didn't know if there would be room. Didn't know how many sites you would have and I can't go down that early to get a site. Josh said you guys were going down 2 weeks ahead of time. Just can't swing that bro! Besides, I may try to get levings to come again and he would need rm for the 5th wheel or another buddy with a pop up. SP

Just reserved our site today at LSPS. Site number 37 North of the gas pumps adjacent to 281 HWY. Zac, same spot we had for spring break. See you all there! SP

I guess I should have clarified what I meant when I said "if the other side is good". I assumed anyone with the ability to do a top end would know that the 2 cylinders would need to be at the same compression. A fresh hone and possibly new rings and the "ok" side would be "fresh" again and have the same static compression. And no, I wouldn't recommend it as I wouldn't recommend running a good tire and one worn out but that really isn't what he asked. He asked if it was possible and it certainly is. Not ideal, but possible, especially if the other cylinder is at the same compression. SP

Duh, you can import anything that is not illegal to possess. Only you can decide if it is cost effective. Last I knew they were sold in both Canada and Mexico for border imports, otherwise you are looking at importing from overseas which is out of range for most just in shipping. SP

It will fuck up your cylinder if the rings or piston is damaged. Even when you only fire one cylinder the mechanics still force the components up and down. Now your dragging a dead piston up and down. Just plum silly and asking to spend money. And I don't see why you couldn't only replace one piston. If the other side is good then why would it need over bored? People do it with car engines all the time. Personally, I wouldn't go that route but $300 for a top end isn't an issue for me. If your tight on cash, I don't know why it would be an issue. Each cylinder and piston is its own circuit, so to speak. I know I'm gonna get bashed for this but I just don't see the logic behind "it having to be done in pairs". Like I said, I wouldn't do it this way, but I don't see why it's not possible. Just make sure you document whats been done so you'll know when you sell it or take it apart nest time. JMO SP

I had a stock stroke motor that sucked ass midrange. Ran like a striped monkey on top but the middle sucked ass. Carbs were too big and was flooding it out. Too much fuel for the flow through the motor. I was running PWK 35s on it. Dropped to 33s and it made a world of difference. Just something to think about if you have someone you can swap carbs with to test before you invest in new carbs. Guy on here by the name of Blueduece led me down this path to smaller carbs. SP

LMFAO and its not even April!

I'd give 900 for a rolling chassis all day long! SP

Wlecome man. X2 where you from? What's up with your motor? You doing it yourself? SP

No shit Loco.....just chillax! Good things come to those who wait. You spring this on us....give us a few days to get some shit together. There should be some good pics shortly. SP

I have individual intakes and used to have a crossover tube between them. A few years back I removed the tube and capped both holes. This is the third motor with the same intakes. Now I am running a 4 mil with these intakes and no crossover tube and have never noticed a difference. SP

Most generally people run 32:1 (1 qt to 4 gallons) or 40:1 (1qt to 5 gallons). SP

PM sent SP

I run Trinity intakes just like this only I removed the nipple for the boost bottle, drilled and tapped a threaded hole 3/8" ISO and installed a 3/8" ISO plug with a sealing ring. Looks nice and clean without the "crossover tube". Had something similar to savage with the tube before and though this would be cleaner. Couldn't tell any performance difference after the change. SP

X2 There shouldn't be that much variance between cylinders. And like Dave said, you want to take you squish reading directly above the wrist pin so the piston cannot rock back and forth with the solder as close to the cylinder wall as possible. Most people run a squish just slightly more then 1mm (0.040") so your 0.042" reading is good but the other side should be al lot closer. I would double check your process and take several readings also. Good luck. SP

Only you can tell us what is wrong. You have it there in front of you for evaluation. If you are pulling the threads out of the cylinder then the threads need to be repaired. If it were me I would just repair all of them. Any machine ship can do it or you can do it yourself. Again, if it were me I would repair them all with "keenserts" as opposed to helicoils. Keenserts are a much stronger thread repair unit. If it isn't the threads in the cylinder then it must be the studs and those can just be replaced. Simple to diagnose and simple to repair. Just getter done! SP

I think you would want something that is 50/50 tin and lead or at least 70/30 tin and lead. The higher the lead content the softer the solder is. SP

A solder is a fusible metal alloy with a melting point or melting range of 90 to 450

I ride mostly at Little Sahara in OK (1500 ft elevation) and locally in Kansas City (900 ft elevation). I had mine jetted and checked on the dyno at Little Sahara Power Sports and I ended up with a 150 main and I think I am running a 48 pilot. Same needle on the middle clip. SP

Just FYI. I run a 21cc dome in my 4 mil and am around 195 psi static compression. I run 110 octane fuel and set it up this way intentionally. We started with 19cc domes cut for the 4 mil crank but they ran about 235 psi static compression. The porting of the exhaust will effect your static compression also. Yes, you should also know your squish clearance. Too tight of a squish clearance can cause you problems. You can pick up a cheap pair of calipers for $35 or a nice set for around $100. Every mechanic should have a couple of sets! SP

I just went down to the local UPS office store. Don't remember the weight though. I know it was less then 72 lbs. SP

If your running a stock port I would stick with Toomey T6 pipes. They run pretty good on stock porting. If you plan on porting then you need to decide with the person doing the porting where you want the power. I've got a dune port from HJR and used to run CPIs. They ran really well, but I've recently changed to Shearers and they run better then the CPIs all through the range. I would never go back to the CPIs over Shearers. However, there are a lot of people that say the their CPIs have more on the low end. I think it depends on the porting and the supporting mods you have to compliment each other. It is a match making game. There is no right or wrong answer or an absolute better component. Each component will make a different difference when used in conjunction with another component. Lots of research and talknig to different builders is your best resource. SP

How would reeds effect compression testing? The intake feeds the crankcase and the flow is through the transfers into the cylinder. Then as the piston comes up and traps the volume in the cylinder once the exhaust port roof is closed is when the compression starts. Correct me if I misunderstand the concept, but I don't see how the reeds would effect it. Even if the reeds were removed, once the intake was closed as the piston traveled down the pressure increase in the crankcase would force the charge up through the transfers into the cylinders. SP

Damn! I used UPS to ship mine to Kevin. I used a heavy cardboard box with expanding foam squirted into the heat resistant bags. Mine wasn't that heavy and I shipped cases crank and cylinders. No head or fluids. Can you strip some parts off of it to get under 70lbs? Clutch cover, flywheel, kicker, shifter, head, maybe even the clutch pack? How heavy is the cooler you are using? The nice thing about the expanding foam that I used is that it makes the box with the motor inside solid. The key to shipping heavy items is to make sure the item doesn't shift inside the container. I used some industrial stuff from work but I bet the expanding foam from Lowe's for fillng cracks would work also. You just need to put a plastic liner between it and your motor. You can squirt some in a box and put liner over it, When it is expanded but still soft, set your motor on it. Then another layer of plastic and squirt some more on the plastic until the box is almost full. Once it is expanded to fill the box close and seal the box. Works great and isn't very expensive. And don't tell the shipping people anything about fuel. They don't like that! Tell them it has been thoroughly cleaned and is dry. Good luck. SP