spurdy

Sweet! It'll be good to see Rachel and Trent again also! I didn't think they were gonna make it. I think I'm gonna order me a new set of shocks tomorrow. Should be here in time for SF. Oh, don't forget to let me know how the deal goes down with the fuel guy! SP

Sorry, my bad, 0.018"-0.020". SP

He said the friends flywheel runs and he gets no spark with the other. SP

Who else is coming besides Melly? That should be pretty fun for them! You get your parts back from Jim yet? SP

From what I understand it depends on the manufacture of the head. Not all stock heads were the same. I thought there was a serial number on the head that may corrolate to the cc size of the dome. Best course maybe to actually measure the volume of the dome itself. SP

If it was dropped or something in shipping the magnets in the flywheel could have gotten broken. Do you hear anything when you shake the flywheel? The flywheel is pretty simple. The magnets rotating around the coils generate electricity and the tabs trigger the pickup. Broken magents are the only thing I can think of that can change. SP

Clymer's calls out all the specs for the crank. Everything is measurable. However, this cannot be determined by "looking" at the crank. SP

Lol! Do you have to use a cherry picker to move it around? :biggrin:

That makes sense. But if he shows no indication on the meter at all then it would be safe to say at that point that the problem is not the coil because he has nothing to the primary of the coil. That at least would narrow it down to the stator or the CDI which is likely where he is at anyway based on the reliability of the coil in the system. SP

X2. Plus if he is running Keihin carbs his jet numbers won't match the jet numbers of the Mikuni carbs that Sandrageshee is running. Also, if they are stock carbs they are 26mm Mikunis and if you are actually running Keihin carbs then you are not stock. SP

If he uses a regular DVM shouldn't he see the meter try to pick up the signal? I know it is too short for most meters to actually measure it but the display should go blank from 0.00 V and start to measure and then transition back to 0.00 V. This would indicate a signal unfortunately it isn't measurable. An analog meter may actually give you a value when the needle jumps. I can set my meter to min/max and it is actually fast enough to measure this signal. As you said, most don't have access to a scope or know how to set them up. And no, I wasn't referring to the signal from the stator, I was referring to the signal to the primary side of the coil. SP

Yes M ohms is 1 million. k ohms is 1000. But like Brandon said, the coil is a very reliable unit. Are you getting any kind of signal to the primary when you kick it over?

First off, I apologize for kinda jacking your thread. But I am having the same issue with my boy's predator 90. I don't know what the stator specs are supposed to be and I can't seem to find them on the net but I don't get the output from the CDI to the coil. My gut tells me that it is the CDI however, I am thinking that the stator could be the issue not delivering the ignition voltage to the CDI to be passed through to the primary of the coil. I do have the trigger from the pickup to the CDI just nothing out of the CDI. Any ideas. I believe that the regulator is only for the lighting system. SP

I run a 4 mil with 21" 9 paddles on 8" rims. I've run haulers and the extremes and while the extremes are tougher I think the haulers actually bite harder. JMO. If you buy off of ebay, just be careful because there are some cheap tires on there that they advertise as haulers but the are sand haulers like previously mentioned. They are a cheap knock off of the Skat Trak haulers. I have seen these tires and they are ok but I would spend the extra for the Skat Traks if it were me. I have also run 10" rims and 8" rims. I love the 8s. The 10s were a lot heavier. I get a lot better "wheel spin" from the 8s due to the unspun weight difference. Some people may argue that the 10s are better for duning cause they won't roll as much but I have never had an issue and I ride 75% dunes and 25% drags. SP

My thoughts exactly!

I would start with measuring the pick up gap, should be 0.018" - 0.20". Then I would check the transition of the pick up and make sure it is sending out the signal when the flywheel tabs pass by it. Next I would move onto the stator. The stator supplies the voltage to the CDI that is going to the primary side of the coil. The pick up sends the signal to the CDI to open the gate and send the stator voltage to the coil. The coil then generates a higher voltage through the plug wires to the spark plugs. I am sure if I jacked something up here I will be corrected, but this is how I understand the ignition system to work. SP

Maybe a piston ring rotated out of position and s hanging up on a port opening. SP

No kidding! I sent a question too hoping it would post at the bottom of his auction. Are those stock pipes? LMFAO! SP

0.020" over isn't going to effect your compression at all just because your pistons are bigger. A fresh top end will bring it back to where it was if the rings are bad or the cyl is scored. It isn't going to effect your power at all. It isn't going to change your engine except for the fact that you have very slightly larger pistons, 0.020" is equal to 0.50 mm. There are guys that run 0.100" over (the absolute largest bore you can go on stock cylinders) which is equal to 2.50 mm and still run stock rods on the crank. As said, noone changes rods because it is cheaper to buy a crank. I think I've said it three times now and I know others have said the same thing multiple times. Go to the clymers manual and see what it says about boring and reploacing pistons. It gives you cleareance for rod play and crank runnout but NEVER does it say replace stock rods with bigger rods. Your buddy is an idiot and you need to stop asking the same question because your not going to get a different answer here. SP

Well, hopefully there are extenuating circumstances here. It is always nice to give people the benifit of the doubt. Unfortunately, the world we live in isn't full of people that you do that for without getting burned. Hope he makes good with you! SP

On a bike I used to have i mounted mine behind the front bumper on the frame. You can remove it all together or cut the portion of the airbox used to mount it too, or remount it somewhere else. SP

All the pipes I have run mount flush up against the flange. I use orings sealed with high temp RTV. RTV stays pliable and I haven't had any leaking issues since. SP

I didn't have to dent anything when i had CPIs on my bike. They fit perfect. But then, my Shearers fit perfect also and everyone I talk to has had a bitch of a time installing Shearers. Must just be lucky. May have something to do with the hangers. Lots of people run straight hangers. Mine are offset by 25mm or so. SP

No shit! And some punctuation Yamahaman and you are forbidden from using the word "like"! Lol! I don't know what kind of a buddy you have but needing a bigger rod because the piston is oversized is about equal to the logic that overboring a 2 stroke gives more displacement therefore must be more power. I think I would talk to your Dad's buddy with the banshees if you need help. Also, my vote for pistons is Wiseco if you have the cash. Also, good to hear your ending up doing both sides. SP

Sweet Bob! You should have plenty of time to get it together. Yeah, it ran really well at the end of snake hunt. Changed gearing a bit during our trip in June and it runs pretty well now. Zac.....It isn't much price difference by the time you pay for all the extra days and the tent that is sure to be fucked up from the oklahoma wind! But I'm sure I'll be spending plenty of time down there anyway! SP