spurdy

Good to hear your able to come Magz! I can't wait to get back in the sand. So....Zac....You got that thing together yet? Bob, is the 4 mil running good yet? I hope mine is still there. I aint been home home in a couple of weeks, I hope my bike is still there and my wife hasn't sold it yet! SP

Buy from a sponsor on here. HJR, FAST, M&M etc. They should be able to match if not beat any other price you find. Just call and check around. Don't forget your flywheel puller. Probably be able to pick up everything at one stop. SP

Replace it with a Pingle petcock. No more flow problems as you upgrade and need more fuel. Easy to change also. SP

What happens at LS stays at LS! I ain't sayin shit! SP

I don't think you'll see much gain with V Force reeds unless you have the motor ported. Money probably better spent on some new aftermarket petals with your stock cages. Doubtful that you'll see much gain from new pistons either. Timing plate would be money well spent if you don't wanna put the money down for some good port work. SP

Well now I'm all confused then. I bought this shee for a project afew weeks ago to rebuild. The hose I'm lookin at is right next to the rad hose comin out of the right side case an it connects to a T that connects to the back of the case an then connects to a nipple right below the rad cap. So if that's wrong an those r suppose to just flow to the ground then what plugs into the nipple below the rad cap an then what plugs into the top right side of radioter then. Like I said I bought for 400 bucks an it a project that I'm workin on thanks The hose that comes off the right hand side of the motor behind the cover for the water pump housing? This does T into the line that comes off the back of the tranny. It is just a vent. The other end runs up the front of the bike up high and then down low to the bottom of the frame. The red oil is most likely ATF ion the transmission. Very common to use ATF for the tranny. SP

My buddy just bent a rod on his crank. He picked up a used stock crank for $100, seal kit for $45, gaksets for probably $30, sealant $7, honed cylinders himself (no bore needed) and I split the cases and swapped it, back together with cases and top end with pressure test for another $100! Granted, this was a "buddy deal" but damn! $1500? Like said earlier, you could buy a complete motor for that. I would tackle it myself and take my time. I hate paying other people to do shit, especially dealerships. They rob you blind and I can do better work then the ones ion my area, most have dumbasses working in their shops. SP

Not bashing you or anything, but why is carb equalization necessary? If it doesn't make HP or speed, what is the point. It doesn't increase or decrease reliability. I am with Dave. Sync carbs and live on. SP

X2 Leave it as is. Been running like that for many years. SP

I was going through the assembly of a top end for a buddy last night and noticed the clymer service limit on oem pistons is 0.002" - 0.006". So it seems that the clearance for the cast piston has a lower minimum being at 0.002" and a maximum of 0.006" before needing rebuilt without failure. SP

The squish clearance comes from the squish band which can be cut at different angles depending on the dome. Some builders have their own angles they like the squish band cut to. This shouldn't effect the volume of the dome very much. So your squish clearance would depend on the specs of the dome. I am sure that if you arder a dome from NOSS that Dave has a standard cut unless the person ordering specifies something different. As far as your compression check, I would just get the correct end for the tester. Otherwise your just guessing. SP

I was confused on the static compression also. I mis spoke when using the term and meant cranking compression. My bad.

Exactly, the burn rate of the fuel ties directly to the timing. Higher octane burns slower so the timing can be advanced more. The height of the exhaust roof plays a part in your compression as much as the dome size. This is why a drag motor produces a lower static compression then stock or other port type motors. All things have to be considered. Dome size, porting, timing, elevation, etc. There is no blanket statement regarding compression if you want to run on the fine line. Higher octane fuel can diminish performance if not needed. Higher octane fuel is needed to prevent detonation caused by the way the engine is set up. It is not used to increase performance. People that use race fuel will have higher performance engines but this isn't because of the fuel, it is because of the set up which makes the fuel necessary. SP

Your not IN mexico yet! You could always change plans..... Zach, sounds like you need to turn part of your office into a shop. Then you could work on your own shit during business hours! That is, in between breaks, of course. SP

I ran those filters when I had Trinity pipes. I didn't notice any difference between those and the 6" round filters that Trinity supplied and didn't fit. I could go on about Trinity and their propsed solutions that they never provided but we all know they suck at customer service. I had no issues with the smaller filters and I ran them for 3 years. It does change the intake track but I didn't notice any performance changes. SP

Of course it can be welded. Is it crack to a surface that has been machined? Your best bet (if you can't determine yourself or can't weld it yourself) is to take it to someone who can do the work and let them make the call. Or post a picture so we can see where it is cracked. SP

Who was it awhile back asking how come the banshee 2 stroke motor was unreliable? LMFAO! 22 years old and having the first top end is impressive even by 4 stroke standards! SP

Damn! You planning a float trip with em?

Why do they have to be that way? SP

I bet that is exactly what you are referring to. The mark on top of the cases that the arm lines up with. Should be out of adjustment but your bike shouldn't "not" disengage either but that is what is happening. Definitely sounds like something is out of adjustment. SP

Do you know where the clutch actuator lines up at? SP

I would like a yellow one but not sure how it would show up against the white plastic. What stickers are you running this time. I still want the large one for the Expedition and chrome would look great!

You spend too much time fucking off on here instead of working! Lol! Get R Done! Can't wait to see how it runs on alcohol! My Elkas showed up today, I'll have to send you a pick when I get them on. Gonna be sweet! Later! SP

I have run the 10"s and 8"s on my paddles and I'll never go back to anything larger then an 8"s again. The weight difference is amazing. No traction difference that I could tell but the unspun weight difference is a lot. SP

You can't go wrong with Jeff. He is a great guy. I wouldn't make a decision until I talked to a few builders. Make your decision with your gut. There are a lot of good builders out there. Jeff is definitely one of them. And not to take anything away from him, I would visit with a few and then make a decision. Make sure you feel comfortable that they are committed to you first. Most builders either have or can get what is needed for you build. I must give props to Kevin at HJR. I sent him my jugs over thanksgiving week a year and a half ago. He said 2 weeks maybe since it is a holiday. He had them done and parts ordered and everything back to me in 10 days door to door. He has been a rock since my build and answers my calls anytime. And I know he sees its my number and goes "oh shit!". Kevin might not keep everything on the shelf for "today or next day shipment" but a 10 day turn around (including transit time) to have all the parts to my door was amazing not to mention the holiday. Work and service second to none. Call around, feel em out and pull the trigger. PM me if you have any other questions or concerns. Best of luck to you. SP