spurdy

You run more fuel to air in the cold. Not more oil to fuel.

I started my boy out on a predator 90 when he was 6. I think 4 is to young, but to each his own. I would start with a 50cc with a remote kill option. She would be able to get several years out of it most likely. I struggled with the clone or name brand. I eventually decided on a name brand simply because they seem to hold there value pretty well. I figured that if my little girl didn't grow into it then I could always sell it and only be out the cost of a clone. Six of one or half a dozen of the other. I have had a couple of buddies that haven't had very good luck with the clones, then I have had others that haven't had any problems with them. SP

X2

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=122231 How's this for a starting point? Get it running then you can have your 2k. Fuck this "I am asking 2k but make an offer BS!" You won't get $1500-$1800 even if you throw in a couple bills. And why throw in money? Just lower your asking price! It is worth about 1k as it sits. But all this bantering back and forth is making people wonder about that. The game "OBO" is silly with an outrageous asking price. It makes it look like you would take advantage of someone if they offered to pay you 2k, which we all know it isn't worth.

Oh, I would think that the Dune Star would be worse on a 2 stroke. They have the crossbars on the paddle, right? They might perform ok on a big four stroke with lots of torque, but not so much on a banshee. However, even the big fourstrokes run Haulers or Extremes at the dunes here. I would venture to say that they are the best performers since thats what most people run. SP

I like my forecast better. http://weather.msn.com/tenday.aspx?wealocations=wc:USOK0572&q=Waynoka%2c+OK+forecast:tenday 20% chance on Wednesday and high sixties and low seventies all week!

X2 on the Haulers. I wouldn't go with the triple buff (bead to bead buff) unless you are strictly drag racing. They those a lot of sidewall stability and will roll when turning tight or at higher speeds. The are great for dragging because the "grow" as they spin faster. I race with a friend that has a 660 Raptor with a cam, pipes and intake and he is fast as shit on 21" haulers on an 8" rim and 7 paddles. The number of paddles is pretty important. If your racing uphill I'd go with 8 paddles. You probably wont have enough poop to spin a 9 paddle. But the Haulers are gonna perform a lot better then the Sand Stars. I've got Sand Stars on the wife's 400 and they are definitely a good all around tire for the price, but they pale in performance comparison to the Haulers. Just my 2 cents! SP

Man, I am telling you that your too high on your price. We can buy bikes just like this all day long that run for 2k. When you have to split the cases to repair something you are talking about a fair amount of work and it always turns into replacement of more then what you originally think. Not to mention, again, that when a motor comes in a box......well, that can very easily turn into a real project depending on how much is disassembled and what not. Not trying to be a dick, just trying to get you to see the scenario from the other side of the PC. SP

Sweet! Tim, Not sure where I'll be. Depends on where the wife wants to stay. Don't expect it to be crowded when we roll in. SP

Still too much for a rolling chassis.

You know I'll be there. Are you at the south camp Timmy? I was able to talk the wife into camping! Whoa Hoo! Ethan will be with us this trip also. Just looks like the 3 of us rioght now but may have a buddy or 2 joining us. We will be rolling in either late Tuesday night or Wednesday around noon. My wife has clinicals on Sat and Sun so she will be taking off on Friday but the boy and I will be there through Sunday. SP

Doesn't seem to be on craigslist anymore. SP

No disrespect or anything but there are a lot of running bikes out there for less then $2500. T3 pipes are outdated for the banshee. Boost bottle is a gimmick. Dynojet stage 3 jetkit means nothing. Wheel spacers and tires....well, whatever. Basically what you have here is a nice rolling chassis. Any motor that is disassembled and comes in a box has the makings of a basket case. I'd give you $1000 for everything as it sits, however, I have no clue where you are even at! If your serious about unloading this thing then please post it like your serious. SP

I think the majority of us can say we have been there! Maybe got out of it being lucky maybe not. I got the ends of 2 fingers removed in a router about 20 years ago. I'll never forget it, that's for sure. And yes, it hurt like a motherfucker! But, we all think more clearly about our actions when looking behind us! Lol! And GDub, I type just fine also! Lmao. SP

Just another vote for "no key switch" . It is so easy to bypass and really isn't a theft deterrent. Ditch it and make life simpler. SP

Option one if the crank is still serviceable at a reasonable cost. If not, Option 3 without a doubt. A good crank is the heartbeat of your motor and a heart attack can cause lots of other damage along the way. SP

X2. SuperTechniplate is a good oil. If you want something that smells good buy the fuel fragrances. SP

I like assembly lube, however I've used 2 stroke oil and moly grease. Moly grease smokes like a bitch but I didn't have anytnhing else at the time. Motor held just fine for the 3 years I ran it.

I wouldn't go to that big of a dome. I would start with a 17cc dome. That's what I was running with about 175 compression at 1000 ft. SP

Wlecome to the HQ! Fouled plugs are a sign of the jetting being to right most of the time. Could be attributed to the fuel/oil ratio but I would lean toward jetting. Most people running a gas motor run between a 32:1 and 40:1 ratio. You will find some that run leaner and richer ratios. Check out the jetting forum for tips on jetting. SP

Sounds like you got it. Yes, long rod nets no performance gains, just reliability. SP

Long rod stock stroke = 795 series pistons stroker motor = spacer plate or custom cut domes porting is gonna make any motor run better 4 mil crank without spacer plate and custom domes will need to be ported to adjust from stock port timings 4 mil crank with spacer plate under cylinders doesn't require porting since you have raised the port windows 2mm with the plate stock stroke crank doesn't have to be ported since factory port timings are designed around the 54mm stroke length however there is a ton of power to be gained here through porting long rod is 5mm longer then stock but the 795 pistons have a new wrist pin location to match so no additional porting is necessary I think I covered all your questions. SP

A long rod has a 5mm longer rod and reduces stress on the piston. You need 795 series piston with this. 4 mil stroke moves the pin for the connecting rod toward the outside of the counter balance weight 2mm for an increased stroke length of 4 mm. This will require the use of a spacer plate (not recommended) or porting for the correct port timings and stroker domes. Domes will run you about $80, porting can be anywhere from $200 to $550 or so depending on who you have do it. Porting for stock stroke or a larger stroke motor is going to be your best bang for the buck but should also be choosen with riding style and all other mods taken into consideration. SP

I have a used Pro Design Head with a set of standard stroke 17cc domes and a set of custom 4 mil domes 21cc 13 090. PM me of your interested. SP

If I am not mistaken the Hotrod crank and the Wiseco crank are manufactured at the same place. THe only difference is the Hotrod connecting rod is labeled Hotrod and the Wiseco is not. Not 100$% sure of this but I remember something along these lines. SP