spurdy

The clutch is on the right side. The side the brake is on. The fly wheel is on the left side. You should probably invest in a Bible (Clymer's manual) at this point bro! SP

What is your opinion on after market clutch parts. Such as Basket, Inner Hub, and Pressure Plate. Is the basket the most important part and how important are the inner hub and pressure plate? Is stock sufficient for these items as long and you run a good clutch pack and/or DD or slingshot? SP

I use ATF but anything works in the tranny as long as it is good for a wet clutch. Some run a BelRay GearSaver 75 or 80 weight, 10W40 motor oil and some atf. You can see the claw right behind the lower left of your clutch pack. But be careful when you remove the clutch cover as it is very easy to "correct" the problem before you see it because there is a nub on the clutch cover that prevents the shift shaft from coming into the cover too far. If it comes over farther it may correct itself before you can see what is wrong and leave you stumped. SP

If it were welded together wouldn't there still be pressure form the pressure plate and the springs? I have seen were the bolts into the clutch boss have broken releasing the spring tension against the pressure plate thus the rod would then be able to move freely. In any case, Tyler is right, you gotta pull the cover and check out the clutch assembly. SP

X2. Worn out rivet on the shift claw will do it everytime. Or the nub inside the clutch cover that maintains position on the shift shaft. However, worn claw is more likely. SP

X2. If your running hot and create a greater pressure then the cap can hold the cap lets coolant out. This is usually captured in the overflow tank. This coolant is never drawn back into the radiator. As long as you don't run hot you shouldn't leak any coolant out. I've run it both ways. When I ran pods I just relocated the tank up under the front end between the upper a arms. Now I don't run one at all. Never leaked any coolant but I run a bigger radiator with Engine Ice. If your jetting is correct and you have good flow you won't have any issues. SP

X2 except there are M10s for the foot pegs. I am pretty sure the pitch on those are 1.50mm. SP

Boring cylinders should be around $40 per hole as already said plus the cost of over pistons. Probably about $180-$200 for the top end with gaskets. The lower end is very cheap to disassemble and inspect. A tube of Yamabond and I would definitely replace all the seals (about $40). Check the crank to see if it is spec. You can find a used crank for around $100 if needed. Check the shift forks for wear or damage ($15 each on ebay). Check all bearings in the tranny. Transmissions very in price on ebay usually due to how many are listed at the time. You can shop around and pick them up cheap but you will likely not need anything here. Check the clutch plates and steels closely. As long as the boss and basket are in good shape with no grooving the rest of the parts are pretty cheap. Not knowing anything about the motor I would definitely tear it apart and look at everything. The cost to do so is minimal and the then you know exactly what you have. GL with your project! SP

Lol! Just don't tell his mom! Gotta start sometime, we all get there eventually! SP

Didn't read the whole post. How much for a regular baseball cap? No flatbill bs or anything, just a good ald fashion bb cap? SP

I run about the same set up. 4 mil HJR dune port with 35 PWKs with a DD clutch and Shearers. I run a 21" tire on 8" rims with 9 paddles (haulers) on a +4 swinger. I like the ability to wheelie while duning whenever I want but have a hard time keeping the front down sometimes when drag racing. SP

I've got a buddy that has a set of these. 8 paddle on 10" (pretty sure) ITP C Series rims. I think he wants $150 for them. The rims alone are worth that when purchased new. Let me know if anyone is interested and I can put you in touch with him. SP

Kevin could probably best answer this question for you. IMO the 36s would be too big. I run his 4 mil dune port with 35 PWKs and was running 34 TMs. I like the PWKs better but both ran well, but I have a little bigger motor. SP

2-4 are the gears that are back cut for the override. You would still have to clutch from 5th to 6th. Not sure what you are asking with "how do they work". Overrides work by back cutting the shift dogs on the gears, modifying the shifting drum and adding springs to apply lateral pressure to the shifting forks. SP

If you were to buy a new override today, what would you get and where would you go for it? SP

Thanks man, I was looking at WCRs website a couple of weeks ago and didn't see anything there. Suppose I need to call them. I guess they could best answer the question of "is one more durable then the other?" also. What is the benefit of the a 2-4 or is it just a different application? I never use 1st when dragging so my thought was to go with a 1-5 N down and step up my gearing to utilize 1st gear. I still do alot of duning with the wife, kids and some friends and want the trany to be reliable for this so any opinions on on which dunable would be appreciated. SP

Tyler, on your 2-4 is neutral between 1 and 2? Is it still a 6 speed or did it drop to 5? How in the hell do you remember to clutch between 4th and 5th? I am getting one over the winter and was thinking of going with a 1-5 N down but I want to be able to beat the hell out of it also. SP

It is either the seal between the needle and the seat on the carb. Could be trash or grit or something not allowing them to seal together properly or the rubber part of the needle is worn or damaged. Or it could be the float not allowing the needle to travel far enough to seal against the seat. SP

I am surprised also at the number of folks saying YFZ 450 over the Banshee for duning. If I were to get a 4 stroke it would be the YFZ 450 but I wouldn't trade my Banshee for a 450 for duning. I have a buddy that has an older 450 and a new 450r. The older one is piped and runs well (I just rode it over Thanksgiving at Little Sahara) but it is rough as hell! The 450r is wider and has much better suspension but still isn't as plush or handle as well as my Banshee. I do have about $2500 into the front end of the Banshee though to get it there though. I also wonder if GhostRider really knows what a "good" running banshee feels like. His 02 had pipes and a boost bottle. Didn't list anything he had on the 04. All I am saying is if you ride a well put together Banshee (port, pipes, carbs, and tuned with some decent suspension) I think that you would be happier then with a stock YFZ 450. Now if your gonna set up the 450 that may be a different story but dollar for dollar I think you can get your Banshee there for less money. And if money is no object you can make your Banshee better the more you spend. SP

That's odd because all of the vehicles I have and have ever had have lights in the front (amber) and back (red) that are illuminated at the activation of the first position

Wow! You should slap them around a little! Or get out in front! Lol. For real though, brake light wouldn't be bad but that cheesy shit Yamaha came up with for the rear brake? My kid can design better then that! SP

So hows come none of them there vehicles I have got a switch in them for park lights? Everytime I turn on my tail lights them durn park lights come on. Come on man, they are one in the same, same lights ussed for 2 different reasons. Unless you want to split up the amber lights up front from the red lights in the rear. But really, everyone knew he was talking about the diference between the tail light and a brake light and you had to go throw shit in the game! SP

All Banshees have "Tail Lights" or "Park Lights" that are part of the headlight circuit. Of course they don't come on when the engine is off, there is no battery to power them. That doesn't mean they are not called "Park Lights". The "Brake Light" wasn't incorporated until sometime after 2000. SP

Lol! Enjoy it a little bit at a time! It makes your money last longer! SP

I know what you mean. It is crazy but everyone that I have had apart is a slip fit. Not even and interference fit. If I remember correctly the bearing is bathed in your tranny lubrication fluid. This is most likely what the engineers that designed this had in mind. You could always peen the shaft next to the bearing or over the inner race on the shaft to provide some interference. I have been running a stock impeller and stock gear in my latest banshee for almost 3 years now with no issues. However, when I tear down this winter to switch my tranny out I am going to revamp the clutch side with Brandon's parts and new cover. SP