spurdy

Yep, I think I'd pass on them also. SP

No kidding! And I am gone for the next 3 weeks! Who is gonna go get my stuff together? Lol! SP

Lol! My clutch is like brand new and still creeps forward when revved and is hard to find neutral! Been like that since it *was* brand new with billet basket! It is just the way it is! Just my opinion. SP

Yep, this is normal. SP

X2 SP

Shouldn't hurt it, it just may run like shit. The changing of the port timings is like changing the cam in a 4 stroke. Best to let a builder look at them or take some measurements of the porting and check on here with guys that know more about porting. SP

Absolutely! Lol! I am ready! My new velocity stack tornadoes kick ass! It's like riding a rocket! Now I just need to decide if I am gonna put the boost bottle back on for some extra kick! Any thoughts? SP

No. The case are stronger do to the mass in that area. The first time I forgot about this retainer I broke it with no damage to the cases. The retainer is only about 3mm wide in the middle. Nobody around here uses it. Never been an issue. SP

You crack me up Sarge! Got my new rear shock ordered, no more wheelies out of the hole. Don't for get about my new tornadoes I got for the cards! Hehehe! Besides, its gonna take more then a little meth to put you in front! If I cant beat you I'll just stick Ethan in the seat and let him whoop up on you! SP

Absolutely don't leave that out. But that is attached only to the upper half. We are talking about the bearing retainer only. SP

No I don't use this clip and neither do several of my buddies. The bearing has a clip around it and cannot move. You can pry carefully at the back of the case and at the front. The back surface is very wide and there are two sealing surfaces at the front. But you have to be very careful not to mark the surface. I usually run around the entire perimeter with a sharp utility knife to break the bond. Hitting it with a hammer is dangerous because all of the places with good access are also good places for the case to break. SP

Could also be a broken reed petal or reed cage problem. SP

Hard to read your post with the lack of punctuation and I am not going to read again to cipher through it. If you haven't pulled the flywheel and stator plate then do so because the stator plate is connected to both upper and lower case halves. Also phelps (I think) mentioned the bearing retainer behind the clutch basket also bolted to both halves. I don't install the since the bearing has a keeper and is trapped in position so I don't have to disassemble the clutch assembly to split the cases. Not removing the bolts in order has absolutely nothing to do with them coming apart. That is simply for reassembly. Careful with a hammer, dead blow or not. I have seen many case damaged from beating on them. SP

Yeah, I hate the oil from the exhaust as well. However, I have had good luck using high temp RTV when installing the pipes. SP

My money goes on carbs out of sync. SP

Lmao! I'd love another outing! Minus the State Patrol of course! I'll be in Germany that week but I am almost ready for the Oct trip! Just a touch more work on my carbs and cover her up in plastic and I'll be ready to send TNT and Springer home after more *go fast parts* again! SP

I had a Trinity Stage III and I was running 35 PWKs. In my opinion the carbs were too big. It took me forever to get it running well and when it did run good it just seemed like there was too much fuel all the time. It just seemed like it was being flooded with fuel. Maybe I just wasn't as good at tuning back then but it was tough to get it running well and never did run as good as I thought it should. Several people on here told me to try smaller carbs. Back then, I just didn't have the money to *try* a smaller set at $600. Now I run a set of 35 PWKs on an HJR 4 mil and it really screams. I just don't think the Trinity port flowed as much. Just my thoughts. SP

Yeah, the different stages could be anything, depending on who did them. In any case I wouldn't expect it to run anything like one of Jeff's motors. If it is just a clean up port, then you can still send the jugs out and have just about anything done to them. SP

I know! What's up with all that shit? Can't we all just get along? Lol! They keep coming, and then leaving with ideas of more upgrades, different pipes, different porting, alky, override, etc. It makes for good times though! Can't wait! Sounds like it's gonna be a good time. Anxious to see that bike of Dusty's run! Tim, let me know how you make out at Andy's. Tanner, get that shit together boy! We need a new picture! Zac, how long is the boss gonna let you come out and play for? SP

I've run Sunoco Turbo Blue for 2 or 3 years. 55 gallon plastic drum and have kept a drum up to a year and have had 0 issues. Always kept in the garage and sealed but sitting on concrete floor. Never given me an issue. SP

I've done it twice recently when my override shelled. Ryan and Tyler helped with the first one. The only tricky part was the tranny. An extra set of hands and it isn't bad at all. On the second go around I found an air leak under one of the cylinders. Had to take the jugs off anyway. Even doing that, I didn't take the head off. Just removed the 8 nuts and took off the head and both cylinders. Going back together was a little tricky but my 10 year old held the rings while I slid the jugs on, we did it first try (some of the guys on here know my boy, he's gonna be a hell of a mechanic! Lol!). SP

That is probably it. It is likely ok. But, as particular as I am I would glue the hole shut and retest. But I'm an anal bastard when it comes to that shit! Lol! SP

As said before the 110 (stock) rod vs 115 (long) rod effects the angle between the connecting rod and the wrist pin and bearing as the piston runs up and down in the cylinder. The intention is to reduce this angle with a longer rod over the majority of the stroke. It will still come perpendicular with the piston at TDC and BDC therefore rotating through all angular sequences just at greater angles when referenced between identical heights of the stroke. As far as HP and displacement, they are the same. There maybe be some that theorize the long rod might spin up to rpm faster and this can get into a lengthy discussion as we have had on here before. I think if there was a difference in performance it would only be able to be seen in test equipment and nothing you would ever see by your "seat of the pants" dyno. Your bore size effects you displacement very little also. A 4 mil is around 390 cc and the difference in a 64mm bore and a 66mm bore is only a few cc. There used to be a graph on here that referenced bore size vs stroke length but I couldn't find it. Again, any builder would be happy to go over this with you. SP

I don't do that on the first date! Lol! SP

I am just putting the override back in for the fall season. After it broke last time, and I got it back from Greg I just help onto it to see how some of the other repaired extremes held up before I put mine back in. Other then that there wasn't anything wrong with it . Bitch just keeps running and running! Between Ethan and myself I'd say we give her a pretty good beating so I must have done something right! Lol! SP