spurdy

Don't really need to have a contest for that. We can just give the award to Zac.....just sayin SP

Hey, don't talk shit when you don't know. Those turbo fans are the best mod I've done. That's what I used to beat Tim's bike.....I just never told him! :rotflmao:

Next time you ask a question like this, pose yourself as a blonde with big tits! You will get nothing but the most profound responses! SP

Thought that was funny as well. Smoke coming out of the pipes (silencers or connections) has nothing to do with your clutch. The cable or perch problem is just that. A problem at the perch or a stretched cable that needs the length adjusted. The clutch being "wasted" isn't really a very technical description of what is wrong with the clutch. Anyone that told me I needed a new clutch because it was "wasted" wouldn't even get my money for parts. The clutch mechanics are simple. You have friction plates and steels. If things get too hot down there you can glaze the friction plates (this is a visual observation) and "blue" the steels (another visual observation). Other than that the clutches will wear out. In which case you measure the thickness or each plate and steel to see if it is within allowable tolerances. You can buy clutch plates and steels along with tension springs from rocky mountain for about $50. Maybe an hour to install depending on how much beer you drink in the process (usually takes me about 2 hours) and you're done. Now, if you have a problem with the clutch basket (sometimes the plates wear grooves in the stock basket and causes trouble disengaging) it will need replaced. At this point, a new stock basket is about $35 or a billet one (that won't groove easily) is about $150. So, break down your problem to were the problem is at. The clutch is completely seperate from the exhuast. The sloppiness of the cable has nothing to do with the condition of your clutch (although if it is too tight it will definately effect the condition of your clutch!). Once you break each issue down to what it really is you'll realize this thing isn't a rocket ship. It isn't going to the moon and it is pretty simple mechanically and electrically to work on. And if you don't have a banshee bible (aka clymer's manual), go out and get one. Best of luck, SP

OMG! Don't let Cam see this post! Just sayin..... SP

Drill and tap for NPT flush plug or ISO plug with sealing ring. Not so difficult and much cleaner look. SP

Been a lot of years but I don't think mine looked like that

Nope. No port on the bottom of the res. Always wondered what the hell good it was to have it anyway. SP

In that case, I would cut the nipple off of the intake manifold, drill and tap into the inside bore and thread in a plug with a good sealant. Like an NPT flush plug and Yamabond or Threebond. SP

If the intake boots are cracked (I thought you said that in the first post) why not just replace them with intake boots without the boost bottle ports? SP

Taking care of a customer is a little easier when the customer comes to the place of business. The hard part is keeping customers happy across the country. Shipping stuff on time when promised, completing work when promised, being there for troubleshooting and with tuning issues, etc. This is what separates the men from the boys. I dealt with Trinity years ago and that is where they fell short with me. It is nice to hear good things once in awhile amongst all the negagtive. SP

Well, that was a big PLUS......Just sayin SP

As if you don't need to add coolant if you still have one? SP

Yep, several seasons on mine as well. And you can ask any of the guys I ride with, between me and my boy we run that motor hard. I wouldn't say abuse it, but we definately push it to the max. Proper assembly, proper tuning and good maintenance is all that is required. SP

Yep, I wouldn't buy one for cooling purposes, but they would be the shit for splicing a hose back together, unless you're like coupelx and can't make a hose clamp work SP

Haven't run one in years. SP

I don't think they do much but they don't go in the same catagory as the boost bottle. The boost bottle tears intake boots and cause lean conditions. The inline coolers don't hurt anything. May add a little bling if you're into that. I had a couple so I've got them on both lines. Wouldn't hesitate to run without them though. Oversized rad and I even am running a stock impeller and never have an issue getting hot. Biggest thing is to have your jetting right. And I agree as well, a lil rich is way better than a lil lean SP

Guess you mean Little Sahara in OK since you mentioned Tulsa. There is also a Little Sahara in Utah. SP

No, a slipping clutch will rev high and go no where. The stator can provide good spark until a certain RPM and then fall off. It sounds like that could be your problem. SP

We used mine on my 40 lectrons without the adapter . Remember? SP

X2

Thanks man, I appreciate that! I am gonna try to get out there this weekend. Not sure if I'll be racing or not, but I'll bet Ethan will be! Don't get back into KC until after 5 pm so we will be late if we come on Friday. SP

That's my line! And you fucked it up anyway! It's "here, hold my beer and you might want to record this!" SP

That's funny shit! Come on guys, pony up! Lol! He's trying to build his banshee! I don't get ANY of the proceeds! They all go to his bike, that he is going to put together by the way! He only charges 10% of what he sells (except for my stuff, which he gets 100%). Bring your stuff, he will peddle it! He is anxious to get his banshee going. Come on Jason! We need a frame! SP

Come on Tyler, like I tell Ethan "You can't be a pussy all your life" !