spurdy

I bet after you ride it (depending on your experience with other pipes) you wont have any questions. Fitment sucks, quality of the welds and chrome can be shitty (sorry but it's true, mine leak oil through several of the welds) but the performance is awesome. SP

Yep, You can also bore the holes out in the case half that the shaft goes through and install a needle bearing. You can also turn down the shaft drum on the primary drive side and install a needle bearing there. That puts the drum rotating on two bearinsg, one on each side instead of only one side. Together you can make a stock transmission shift pretty damn nicely. SP

If you don't have the compression ratio requiring the use of higher octane fuel you will not have any performance benifit from it. The only reason we run a higher octane fuel it to prevent detonation from having a higher compression ratio. This is a common misconception with higher octane fuels. You gain the performance from the increased compression. In order for the higher compression to be useful it also requires the use of a higher octane fuel to prevent damage to the engine. Hope this makes sense. Your timing will depend on your current set up and will probably fall somewhere between +3-+7 depending on porting and current compression, etc. SP

The spitting and sputtering could be caused by the carbs being out of sync with each other as well. 10% difference in cyl static compression would have me close to re ringing it as well. And your Honda guy was right. Static compression check is only meant to check piston rings ability to seal and the result will be effected if you have a leak in the head. It is not intended to give you any kind of compression ratio and as jbooker said, the best process is to check after a rebuild, re check after break in, and re check periodically while keeping a log. SP

I'd switch back to dual carbs and you should have everything you need to make more power than the other bikes. Next it all comes down to tuning, set up, and rider ability. It doesn't matter how much power you make if you can't get that power to the ground. Suspension, gearing and tire size. Set up and tuned right, there is no reason you're not out in front. SP

There are some nice aftermarket 2 piece billet hangers with a rubber grommet between them. Being 2 piece, the angle is adjustable and the grommet abosrbs the virbration. Best hanger on the market IMO. SP

If it was ported for Shearers then it should run hard. Mine ran great with CPIs and when I swtiched to Shearers I sent them back to Kevin for some tweaking and it runs awesome. One of the fastest dune bikes where I ride. Good luck! SP

small gear puller or a couple of pry bars. It's just a brake lever SP

Same issue with clearence. I have offset hangers and still had to space out about 10mm. It isn't uncommon with Shearers. You don't want to run it with it touching the head. It will wear into the pipe and develop into a crack. I get my springs from rocky mountain. They have several lengths. I use the long ones. To install you can use a small screwdriver through the spring loop like a T handle or spend 8 bucks on the spring tool. I'm too old to dick with not having the right tool so 8 bucks is a no brainer for me. It will be interesting tosee how those pipes run if Kevin ported them for the FMFs. SP

Did you get a spot on the hill, Cam? Or you staying down in the state camp ground? SP

Lol! Ima beat you with my crutch biotch! SP

I bet they are stainless. Aluminum bends too easily and would have a hard time fluttering without becoming distorted and likely corrode easily with the fuel. Stainless has decent elasticity, good memory and excellent resistance to corrosion. I bet they last a long time! SP

Typically you don't over bore to gain dispacement on a two stroke. The number of bores on your cylinders is the life of them (at least on the stock cylinders). Now, with a cub cylinder the sleeve is nickasil. And like previously said a 4 mil cub has a 68mm bore and is a 421 cub.If the one you have is a stock strike then it would be a 392 cub @ a 68mm bore. I bet there wouldn't even be enough material to increase the bore size to gain the amount of displacement your looking for. SP

I don't do fire bombs. We use the little propane bottles now. It's safer and a better show. Right under your truck, Hartley! Lol! I think we are neighbors if Tim moved down the street SP

I had a high output Moose stator for several years and had no issues. I never ran big lights and during a rebuild I put a stock stator back on and sold the Moose. I have heard others that have had good luck with Moose stators also. I am still runing a stock impeller with a big radiator and engine ice. I ride/race in the sand and have never had a problem with overheating and I ride in some pretty warm temperatures. But I do get quite a bit of air flow also. Maybe think about switching to methanol, it runs a lot cooler than gas. Water temps will drop quite a bit. SP

Don't tell us about cool little tools like that unless you are gonna hook a brotha up with one! SP

Are you running a stock radiator? At first I was thinking it was a coolant flow or jetting issue also. But I can see how limited are flow could cause it to eventually get hot. Even quicker when being subjected to extreme loads. I would try a larger radiator, Make sure the front grill is as open as possible, billet impeller, and run engine ice or water wetter. I don't think it would be that difficult to run a fan. You could use the lighting circuit ut ir would have to be sized appropriately. You might need to go with a high output stator to generate the needed current depending on the fan. Oh, and you would lose your lights unless you put a 3 way switch in so that you could run the lights instead of the fan. SP

Hell yeah! Amen to that! SP

Absolutely Shayne. I love to get out there with my stock cyl and race with some of the faster bikes. Mine is by no means close to the fast stockers out there, but then again, it's a duner with a plush suspension set up on gas. It sure is a blast to ride though! SP

I'm not sure if JD's was the fastest or not but I know one thing......that stock cyl bike of his is a fuckin rocket! Definately one of the fastest stock cyl bikes I've seen! SP

You're a thinker, and I like that! Lmao! Give me a shout, craig. Let's do lunch. I have lots of time to kill! SP

No kidding. Then he found it all by himself after looking, which took less time then running in the house to post on here. Dyno whatever, Cases are matched together. Mis matching upper and lowers isn't recommended but you can do what you want. Without a pic of the crack it is hard to give advice. You could weld it, fill it with JB weld, yamabond, etc. All of which are your call based on your visial observation of the issue. You know what it looks like better than any of us. SP

If you shop around you can buy a arms for 2-300$. Not sure about J arms though. SP

Amen to that! Still amazed that he asked the question knowing that the ball joints are shot, has replacement bushings for the arms, and knows the shocks are in need of service or replacement. SP

Not quite the same here in the states but, I'd say, if your legal, try to reason with them. Having upset neighbors just sucks all around. However, if they choose to be unreasonable I wouldn't sacrifice my rights as a tax payer to keep them happy. Taxes paid, legally insured, courtesy given, what's the point in abiding by all the rules if they are still gonna shit on your parade? We can't always all agree on everything, that's why we have laws and rules. Stay legal and within the law and you should be good. Especially if you do your best to be conscious of their rights as well. SP