spurdy

If I were you, with the limited experience you have (no fault in that, just the reality) I would look for something that is as close to stock as I could find. This way you can learn the little things first without having to immediately tear into the top end or transmission because some clown before you jacked with it. You can learn the basics and move into engine mods and such as you feel comfortable and can afford them. As far as the reliability, it won't take you long on here to learn that our bikes are only as reliable as the amount of maintenance given to them. Many of us have several seasons on the same top end, even as much as 8 or 9! Now, once you start building them bigger with more torque and HP the little things start to matter more. You have to be accurate with your work or you can have premature failures. But a well built engine can very well last a very long time. SP

I have seen this done with a needle bearing as well as a ball bearing. Personally, I like the needle bearing because it requires less removal of material from the shift drum. SP

That That on eI didn't do. But it is even simpler. The case stays the same and you turn the drum down to the inside diameter of the bearing (minus about .005-8"). Just measure the bore in the case and find a suitable bearing. SP

And I love you like a grandpa! Lmao......just sayin.....makin us get up at crack o dawn 30 for some damn breakfast burritos! Oh, I aint washin my stinkin ass for nobody! How did it go? By the time I 'm going home I'll be smellin like a Yeti! Yep, that's when you know it was a good dune trip! SP

No, it's the second hill from the place that you rent the site from SP

I would try leaning it out a little on the pilot. It also sounds rich on the main if you can't pull your top gearing. I run a 152 with the exact same set up at 1400 ft elevation. I don't remember what my pilots are for sure. But I am positive its in the mid to upper 40s. SP

That is the 2nd hill Sarge. The first hill is right behind the shop. I am in 140 right next to Ryan. You're the one that moved away from the party! You should go stay with Phelps! SP

The seals are grooved in the middle therefore you have to split the cases to remove and replace. SP

Fuck off or the propane bomb goes under your truck insteadof Hartley's!

No kidding! We all jsut go out there to have fun and hang out! Lots of us take pride in our rides and a lot of us have been doing it for a while. But the truth of it is, we all started some where. And as long as there is a Banshee HQ there are gonna be guys that have been around awhile and guys that are just starting. Doesn't matter to any of us where in that range you fall. Come one come all, it's the group of people that show up that make the trip what it is! We'll be on the 2nd hill behind LSPS. Won't be able to miss us, there will be at least a couple of Banshee HQ banners up. SP

Guess your right. I was thinking more along the lines of a complete mis fire. Not just an incomplete combustion cycle. Sounds more like a fuel delivery problem to me. Bit then again, that's jsut from hearing the typed diagnosis and not hearing the engine run also. SP

If it is already apart, I never re use bearings or seals. Too much time, effort and money to do the same shit twice over a few bucks (not to mentin that a leaky seal or bad bearing can cause the repairs to more the second time around). SP

What are you switching back from? I have a couple of sets I might be willing to trade with., SP

Damn, that's a shame. If I wasn't letting my son build his own I'd take you up on this ride! Bump for a good looking bike! SP

Yep, that is exactly why. Doesn't seem like much until you pick them up side by side. That unspun weight is a killer! Plus the longer side wall allows more tire growth at high RPMs. SP

Good luck with the sale. That's a pretty good price and I buy them if they were on 8" rims. If you can't get rid of them I'll give you $175. Don't mean to low ball you but we really try to stay away from 10" stuff. LMK if you become interested. SP

This is the bearing I use http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/NEEDEL_ROLLER/Kit9376 Make sure the hole is an interference fit because there is no snap ring or shoulder to maintain position on the bearing. Since there is not much rotation from the shaft it doesn't take a great deal of interference to keep the bearing in place. SP

Any bearing supply house will have them, or can get them. I have a set of cases apart now. I can get the dimensions for you guys. I'll post them later today. SP

If it is a bearing and you continue to ride it, it could damage the shaft the bearing is riding on. That is one more thing you could have to buy. There is a possibility to damage the gears in the transmission if parts of the bearing are rolling around inside the tranny or the bearing is bad enough to cause gear mesh mis alignment. If it were me I would just pull the motor and fix it. As previously stated, the banshee motor is piss simple. Hell, you can eve flip it upside down and just remove the lower case half to repair the transmission. Depending on the condition of the top end, this might be the route to go. But anytime you have a failure in the transmission there is potential to damage other componants. Best of luck, SP

Could be a couple of things. Even though the plug looks good it cpould still be the plug. Switch plugs side to side and see where the problem goes or pull the plug out and kick it over while watching for spark on suspect side. If you really do have spark then it is air or fuel. If no spark then it's electrical. Fuel or air problem. Fuel problem could be from the carb or as stated with the reeds not closing and the fuel charge pushing back out. Inspect reeds, clean carbs or swap carbs side to side (stock carbs are different right to left with choke and fuel bowls). Air flow could be clogged filter if running pod filters. Out of sync carbs can cause similar issues. Good luck! SP

The eccentric is the M8 x 1.25 threaded rod that is used to adjust the position of the claw. The solid part of the bolt is offset from the threaded part making it an eccentric cam when rotated. SP

Yes, all the overrides I have seen have that done also, in addition to springs on the shift fork shafts and modificatin to the shift drum path for the shifting forks. Don't think I have ever seen a N down 1-6. SP

Yep, running an MX port vs a dune port or drag port is the difference. An MX port isn't gonna flow as much and too big of a carb will choke the engine. If it were an aggressive dune port or drag port it would support a set of 35s in almost any set up combination and prbably gain you more top end. And Jeff's *play* port is pretty aggressive and has a ton of flow, therefore it can handle the fuel delivery of the 35s. That isn't the case with most MX ports. But, it all depends on what that *MX* port really consists of. SP

I've done mine myself. If your handy with a drill it is no problem to enlare the hole in the case for the shift shaft bearings. A drill press would be the easiest. Adding the bearing to the drum requires the use of a lathe. I am not sure if Andy at M&M offers this service but I would bet he could do it considering everything else he does. That is exactly whats been done to my last transmission. Along with the bearings on the shift shaft, and every other webbing cut out on the gears mating to the gears with the dogs. Shifts like butter without the use of the clutch. Cannot shift under wide open throttle like an over ride but the next best thing IMO. I think Kevin at HJR was cutting gears this way for guys. I've done mine on a mill at work but the gears are pretty hard and it is slow going for sure. SP

Before you jump the gun and throw on another 35mm carb, check with the guy that ported it. A stock stroke mx port may not flow enough to support 2 35s. Hell, 33s might even be too big but the only one to tell you would be the guy that did the porting. If you don't have a way to get in touch with the builder, I would try and borrow a carb and try it first. Unless money isn't an issue. If they don't work you could always sell them. 35 pwks are a very popular carb and easy to get rid of. I would bet that thing would rip with a set of 28mm PWKs on it. However, if your SPINNING off the line then you need to make sure you're geared correctly for what you are doing with the correct tire size. Tire pressure is a big factor as well. If you're just dumping the clutch and pinning the throttle off the line then you've got it all wrong. You need to slip the clutch a little and minimize you wheel spin unitl you get moving and continue to let the clutch out as your ground speed catches up to your wheel spin. There is definately an art to the launch and that is where most races are won. I would venture to say that with your current set up you would beat this 450 if you really look at the reason he is beating you. One thing to remember is that a 4 mil or bigger carbs or whatever isn't gonna make your bike any faster. It will only run as fast as your gearing and RPMs will allow. What changes is how fast you get there by making more power. Now, as power increases you can also increase your gearing and gain speed. But regardless, if you can't make use of the power and get the bike to move forward (spinning your tires) you're not gonna out run anyone. SP