spurdy

Mod quad makes a nice one that is a dual throw. It has a mechanism to change the throw from the grip to a thumb lever. It is pretty slick. Quaddad has one he might want to sell. I think he was talking about not liking the twist. Not sure if it is 1/4 rotational throw or not though. SP

Damn, your right. I don't know why I said Utah. Not enough coffee at that point I guess! SP

Utah. Prolly past your 1500 mile limit. The BHQ ride is a good time. Plenty of partying to be had there! Riding is pretty decent. It's a 6 hour drive for us and we do it 6 to 8 times a year. SP

There you go. Looks like it's decided. Little Sahara for BHQ trip 2012! See you NewYorkers there! SP

For a good duner I bet a 4 mill serval that is well put together would make for a fun ride. Suspension, fornt end and swinger set up are just as key for a good duner as the engine is. SP

Come on now, don't get all butt hurt about a little teasing. In all actuallity, it just isn't feasible to have something that runs out over 3 digits. #1) ATV tires are not rated for that speed nor are they balanced which should be something you think about before even attempting those speeds. 2) As John said, it is nothing more than a gearbox with you max engine RPM being the begining factor (regardless of stroke, bore, HP or TQ) followed by the drive sprocket, driven sprocket and tire type and size (I specify type because some tires actually grow taller at higher speeds). Now, in order to get there you are gonna have to gear it pretty tall and to pull that tall gearing you're gonna need a big motor,. Drag bikes make a lot of power at higher RPMs and are geared such that they run out of gear at what hopefully is the end of the track because there is no need for more gear. But it isn't about top speed, it's more about getting off the line and, say a 60ft time, on a 300 ft track. Sure, we can all gear up and go faster but if you can't get the bike rolling to start with it is fairly useless. We have all read so many posts about triple digit bikes, boost bottles, ported heads, etc, that we have a tendancy to flame anyone that brings them up. It doesn't mean we don't or wouldn''t like you, it just means if the question is rediculous at the core, you may get some shit for it. That's all SP

they are = they're.......I'm just sayin. SP

Ding Ding Ding! Lol! Misinformation in this thread? That's an understatement! 125 psi needs a rebuild.....single carb sacrifices bottom end....then the posts are magically gone. Lol! As trick said, don't be too quick to believe everything you read on here. Unfortunately some have made false statements, but eveything can't be 100% accurate in a public forum. Also, you said high comression pistons in your first post. We adjust compression with dome size, not by changing the crown on the piston. Usually an aftermarket head with interchangable dome to increase compression. It is possible that your stock head has been flycut to increase compression which would mean the 125 psi IS low. But looking at everything I would say the head hasn't been touched and your 125 psi is fine. Run the single carb and see if you like it. It works well for some riding applications. Tidy things up and enjoy. SP

I live in Kansas City, so I have a local IBT distributer in the area. I call them direct to find out what they have. If they don't have it I go to Applied Industrial. They are another large industrial disrtibuter and stock lots of bearings. Either one can usually order anything you want if they don't have it in stock. SP

The only reason I say that is that All Balls do not manufacture the bearings that go into their kits. They buy them and put the kits together. You will get whatever bearing they are purchasing. They used to supply KML bearings. I do not know what they are supplying now. KML bearings are a great bearing, you just may not know what you will be getting until they arrive. Sometimes companies sell on convenience, getting bearings, seals, etc. in one package but you may get lesser quality componants. That is the only reason I go to a bearing supplier because I can specify the brand of bearing I am getting. Nothing wrong with staying with a company you are familiar with though. Especially if you have never had a bad experience. Good quality items and good customer service is what generally keep people coming back. SP

I usually buy my bearings from a bearing house. Then you know what brand you are getting. I buy SKF for my rear end. They are pricey but I don't go cheap on bearings. That rearend takes a lot of abuse. SP

Fuck off, slut! Lol! You couldn't take photos like that if it was a naked girl riding!

Damn slim, that's a badass photo too! Who's your photographer? SP

You posted in the jetting and exhaust forum and my vote goes with the chain jumping over the sprocket. SP

I've used a non oring half link in an o ring chain in a pinch before. But as previously stated, it is the weak link and will be the first thing to break. SP

I also seen some complete J arm front ends on ebay. SP

Damn tree huggers! SP

I'd be up for a trip to the west coast also. SP

Naw, I want to sell it as a set. I think I can get more for them together. SP

You still need a stock rear? I think I have one. SP

My son has a couple of sets of stock shocks. PM me and I can hook you up with him. SP

I have a complete YFZ front end including shocks for sale. Silver a arms, tie rods, ball joints and shocks. Make mean offer. SP

And nobody was bashing his ride. We were just saying to be sure and check it out good because there are a lot of nit wits out there that think they are mechanics and fuck things up. You never know what you have until you do it yourself. Hell, he even admitted that he could see the guy he got it from taking short cuts. Anyone that uses RTV to seal up a 2 stroke case is very inexperienced to say the least. In a very non bashing way..... SP

It didn't shear off. It was cut off by your ghetto rigging dude. It is supposed to be short and you adjust the length by the threaded part and lock it in to place with a jam nut. There is no lateral force on anything inside that shaft to shear it. SP

X2 No need to adjust at WOT. The pull position of the carbs will be the same throughout. I'd hate to have to try and set them at WOT with the sync tool! Wow! SP